Pogradec, Albania - Worth a Visit?
Tourists
If you are touring Albania or driving through to Greece or North Macedonia, Pogradec is worth a stop. Having a coffee in one of the boardwalk cafés or walking along the shores of Lake Ohrid is a marvellous way to wind down. During the peak season (July-August) a stay of a few days to a week is enough to enjoy the ample sunshine and beach life. While the lakeshore is beautiful in the off-season, with snow atop the nearby mountains, many businesses are closed. I recommend a visit of a day or two at the most.
Digital Nomads
If your travel life includes working, probably Tirana, Albania is your best option. If, however, you crave peace and quiet, Pogradec offers a nice break from city life. There are no dedicated co-workspaces in town to my knowledge, but a few small hotels along the shoreline offer plenty of seating and Wi-Fi with spectacular views of Lake Ohrid. Like most of the cities in Albania, internet runs at decent speeds and data plans are not expensive. If you are looking for a social network of nomads, though, this is not the spot for you.
Slow & Solo Travellers
For slow and solo travellers, June to September is the best time to visit. The only tourism is the lake, and the associated activities that spring up during high season. My suggestion is a week or two of beach time and a few days in the nearby city of Korcë, Albania. On the other hand, if your travel includes quiet hours writing your next novel, well Pogradec might just be perfect for you, at any time of year! Ohrid, North Macedonia is not too far if you are looking for a longer stay with access to the gorgeous views of Lake Ohrid. Be sure to stop at Saint Naum along the way!
Expats & Retirees
For long-term living, it is wise to consider how you want to spend your days and what you need. I would also suggest that Pogradec is best if you are travelling with a support system, i.e., partner, kids, friends. You will find the social culture in this town to be very closed and traditional, and the foreigner count is low. Loneliness was certainly an issue for me at times and is why I now feel expats and retirees would be better advised to settle in Tirana, Vlorë, Durrës, or Sarandë. My personal favourite is Vlorë, but Tiranë has a larger expat community and more diverse event options.
When to Visit & What to Do
The best time, hands down, to enjoy this lakeside town is during July and August. This sounds counter-intuitive, because most of the popular beach cities are an unpleasant throng of tourists during this time, but Pogradec is a little different. During the summer months, you won’t find many foreign tourists here. You will find local tourists, often joined by family members who live abroad but spend their summers back in Albania.
From the first of June to the end of August, the road that runs parallel to the lake (Rruga Dëshmorët e Pojskës) is closed to vehicles from 6pm to midnight creating a lively pedestrian area. It joins up with the other promenade at Rruga Fan Noli. Here you will discover most of the restaurants and small hotels. Albanians love a stroll, and you will see families and groups of friends walking for enjoyment all year round in Pogradec, especially on the pedestrian promenades.
The city recently installed a fountain in the lake near the public square and typically classical music plays. There are plenty of benches all along the boardwalk and in the landscaped areas. Speaking of landscaping, this is a full-time endeavour. The city takes great pride in keeping the gardens beautiful year-round. Pogradec is known for its roses, but you will find an ever-changing greenery throughout the town.
Last summer for the first time, the municipality installed several sets of free-use beach umbrellas along the central stretch of beach, and hopefully this will be an annual offering. You simply need to bring your beach blanket or chair. There are still many loungers with umbrellas provided by local businesses at a reasonable fee — typically from 5 to 10 euros. My tip is to head out early to get a great spot… while the Albanian tourists are still at the bar/café enjoying their espresso and raki.
Personally, I tended to go for a swim and lounge after 3pm. It is still hot out, but the beach is less busy, and the sun is not as intense; sometimes I practically had the lake to myself! During this peak season, the boardwalk that runs the full length of the beach features a lively collection of activities for children, along with vendors of sweet treats, like petulla (a traditional type of doughnut) and ice cream.
For the adults, pop-up bar/cafés are installed between the boardwalk and the main road in a landscaped area (construction begins in early June) and many of these spots have live entertainment in the evenings. The party rarely goes past midnight on any night of the week, but it can get a little noisy until closing. Along with traditional music, fireworks occur quite regularly late at night as they announce birthdays and special events.
If you wish to rent a paddle boat, jet-ski, or paddle board, there are several options along the beach. These activities take place in designated areas so as not to interfere with swimmers, which is nice.
And the beach doesn’t stop at Pogradec, it keeps on going to Tushemisht. At the time of writing, this tiny village is undergoing a major facelift that will make it a very appealing vacation spot. So far, they have created a lovely narrow boardwalk over the water that runs the length of the village. You may also continue your walk from this village all the way to the border of North Macedonia on a brand-new pedestrian walkway that affords gorgeous, elevated views of the lake. Even if you don’t intend to cross the border, it is a lovely 1 km walk.
The next best time to visit the area is during shoulder season, June or September. During June, the days are long and sunny, but the lake may be a bit cool if swimming is on the itinerary. You can certainly still swim in early September; by the end of the month, it begins to get dark early as the season closes out.
My favourite time of year in Pogradec is mid-to-late August. It is hot and sunny, and the beach umbrellas are still available to use (they disappear quickly at the beginning of September). Around this time, the tourist population drops significantly as families return to Tirana or abroad, preparing for the school year.Outside of the peak season, I would recommend only a short visit of a day or two. At least half of the businesses that serve tourists are closed from September to June. The charm of Pogradec revolves around the lake and the boardwalk, both are starkly quiet in the off-season, and in winter, it is considerably colder than Tirana and the seaside. The only exception to this would be during the Christmas/New Year season when things liven up again on weekends
Let's Talk About the Lake
There is something magical about Lake Ohrid, which is one of the oldest and deepest lakes in Europe. It moves through different seasons and never takes a bad photo. Sometimes the water is mirror-like, and somedays, strong waves crash and spray over the boardwalk. In the winter the swans and water birds come closer to the shore line where the icy blue water is slightly warmer. In the summer of course, it is full of playful activity. In autumn, there is a pink tone in the sky as the sun sets.
In the nearby town of Lin, Albania, evidence was recently found in the waters of the lake, confirming the presence of a settlement over 8000 years old! It is thought to be the oldest in Europe and is currently under further excavation.
Nearby Activities
One outing I recommend is a hike to the castle ruins site (at any time of year). The name is deceiving as there are no ruins per se (the only evidence left is a few stones from the walls), but the views of the majestic lake and the surrounding hills are views not-to-be-missed, trust me. You may even see horses, goats, and chickens wandering freely as you make your way to the top.
Ten kilometres from Pogradec is Saint Naum, North Macedonia.The grounds at St Naum offer a lovely beach, hotel, restaurants, boat rides, and epic views from the hilltop monastery. Most are open during summer only. Between February and June, you may also see peacocks in the monastery gardens in their full plumage, and courting ritual.
Lastly, during September and October, the local markets in Pogradec (of which there are plenty) are loaded with the harvest of the season. Fresh olives, walnuts, hazelnuts, apples, and figs feature prominently. In fact, year-round you can enjoy these markets with seasonal offerings and homemade foodstuffs.
Truthfully, Pogradec is quiet and uneventful from a tourism perspective for most of the remaining ten months of the year, which is why the peak season is optimal for visiting. Many businesses along the shoreline are closed and those that are open have inconsistent hours.
So, is Pogradec for you? As you can see, it depends. I loved it enough to stay for two years, but eventually I needed a bit more that the town could offer.I will never forget the beauty and peace of Lake Ohrid, with its graceful mountains, swans, and occasional rainbows. It fed my soul and will always hold a special place in my heart.
Some of my favourite images from my life in Pogradec
I hope you have enjoyed this free content. Please like, subscribe, or comment. To support me directly, you may leave a tip on this site.
If you would like to know more about living in Albania, I provide one-on-one consulting sessions.
Prints of my photographs are also available on Redbubble
Or, you can buy me a coffee, thanks!
The home for unique & authentic travel
