Northern Colombia slow travel guide

Northern Colombia slow travel guide

Amelia Wood
Find hidden gem hostels and make the most of the stunning nature in the North of Colombia .
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This year I spent four months in Colombia from January - May , with three of those months being on the North coast . This area had a truly profound effect on me so I thought I would share some of my tips and recommendations for the area ! There’s plenty of hostels along essentially a long straight road that leads from Santa Marta to Palomino making convenient stops along the way .

*VERY IMPORTANT*

There are no ATMs between Santa Marta and Palomino , so please bring enough cash to sustain yourself during your travels in this area, keeping in mind all buses are paid for in cash ( most hostels do accept card ). Minca doesn’t have an ATM either , but there is a money withdrawal service in town if you are desperate, just expect high fees . I found an ATM round the corner from the public bus in Santa Marta , in supermercado Olimpica - if you need a quick withdrawal before you start your trip across the North !

Minca , getting there :

- You can reach Minca from the busy Central Market or ‘Mercado Público’ in Santa Marta . Here you can buy a ticket to Minca with company CoostrasMinca for 9000 cop, the transport runs between 7:00-18:00 , but usually leaves when each mini bus is full , there’s no set schedule . ( Find the colectivo between carrera 9 and calle 11) .

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Mercado Público de Santa Marta
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Minca , where to stay :

Rio Elemento
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Casa Loma Minca
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Mano Verde Minca
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Rio Elemento is great with the free breakfast , huge pool and green views ( if you’re on a budget , you can ask about sleeping in a hammock at reception, but it’s not advertised online . ) But if you’re looking to watch a breathtaking sunset , take the stairs up to Casa Loma in the late afternoon / evening . You can stay there as a guest or just go to watch the sunset for the evening ( I promise it’s worth the climb up !)

^ Sunset from Casa Loma, Minca.

-Mano Verde hostel is a 30 minute moto from Minca, you can find the motos at the same place the colectivo drops you from Santa Marta ( but be prepared for some real off roading !) This is a real hidden gem ; views over the mountains all the way to Santa Marta & family style meals made this one of my favourites in Colombia.

^ Sunset from Mano Verde , Minca .

-From Mano Verde , you can do the 2 day long Cerro Kennedy hike which lets you watch an amazing sunrise over the Sierra Nevada. You can also do this hike from central Minca , but expect to add a few more hours to your journey . There are 2 hostel options for you to stay overnight during the hike , which I booked through Mano Verde the day before , but keep in mind the options are quite basic . I stayed at hostel Donde Moncho, but the arepas for breakfast at El Ramo are perfect after the sunrise ! The walk took us 6 hours up and possibly 4 on the way back ( but can be faster depending on fitness !!)

HOSTAL EL RAMO
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Hostal donde Moncho
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CERRO KENNEDY
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^Sunrise over the Cerro Kennedy view point .

Minca , what to do:

- Minca is a great place for adventure , or just to chill out . I walked to the Cascada oído del Mundo , about 30 minutes from the town centre. I suggest getting there quite early if you want to avoid crowds ! There’s also the Cascadas de Manrika , about a 1 hour hike from town too .

Cascada Oido del Mundo, Minca Sierra Nevada
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Marinka Waterfalls
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^Oído del Mundo waterfall , Minca .

-I also hiked up to Coffee farm Finca la Candelaria, which provides coffee and chocolate tours , if you’re willing to hike up about an hour and a half . But I would definitely recommend as the 360 views are great , and you can really learn about the coffee growing/making process .

La Candelaria Coffee Farm B&B
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^Finca la Candelaria , Minca .

Minca , where to eat :

There are countless cafes and restaurants in Minca town centre , along with some pretty nice souvenir shops too . I would definitely recommend the arepas at Cattleya , I went there many times !! Lazy Cat Minca is a little more pricey , but with a broad range of food choices , including pad Thai and even Poke bowls ! Terraza café has your more basic food , but with a really nice terrace to look down across the street below . Finally , Musetto cafe is a more chill vibe , away from the main road , and there’s a really nice selection of cakes !!

Cattleya Fast Food & Souvenirs
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The Lazy Cat
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Terraza Cafe Minca
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Musetto música y café
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Parque Tayrona, getting there :

Parque Nacional Natural Tayrona
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^Jungle in Parque Tayrona .

Parque Tayrona , staying over :

- There are multiple options in your length of stay when visiting Parque Tayrona . It is possible for people on a tighter schedule to do the visit in just one day , just be sure to arrive at the park in the morning to have time to still enjoy the beaches & views . Otherwise I would suggest staying over in the park ( I recommend a night but some people stay for 2 ) . There are also lots of hostels close to Tayrona where you can leave your luggage over night , or stay there the day before and after you visit the park . I stayed in the famous Journey Hostel , which does live up to the hype - just be sure to book in advance !

The Journey Hostel
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^Best swimming pool in Colombia ? Journey hostel .

Parque Tayrona , tips :

- Try getting to the entrance at 7am , or as close to that time as you can .

- Bring your passport

- There are multiple entrance / insurance fees you need to pay upon arrival, so either bring cash or your card .

-The park is usually closed on certain dates in the months of February , June and October at the request of the indigenous Kogi people , so be sure to check out your dates if your’e travelling at this time !

-There are some food vendors and restaurants inside the park , but they are pretty expensive for what they are , so either bring cash to buy food there , or bring some snacks with you !

-If you are staying the night , get up early and watch the sunrise over Cabo San Juan in the morning before heading back .

^Highlights from Parque Tayrona .

Buritaca, getting there and where to stay :

Buritaca
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La Ponderosa Reserve
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The Fort Hostel
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Rio Hostel Buritaca
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-La Ponderosa was probably one of my favourite hostels I’ve stayed in ! It’s totally off grid , and even getting there is an adventure - get the bus to Los Linderos ( just out of Buritaca) where you’ll be met by moto taxis straight away ( only take these motos up to the hostel as you’ll need an experienced driver !) . From here , you’ll have an off roading journey of around 40 minutes with breathtaking views . Once at the hostel , you’ll be met with some of the best vegetarian food in Colombia, a calm private river / beach and real community vibes . This is the type of place to get stuck !

^La Ponderosa Reserve .

-Also in Buritaca is the Fort hostel , which is surrounded by nature too , but with a much more modern feel ! The beds are super nice and everything is pretty brand new , this is a great hostel if you love to chill. It also has an interesting concept of a ‘shop’ where you can buy ingredients for cooking your food in the hostel ! They also do family style meals on select days , which helps if you want to meet people .

^The Fort Hostel .

-Finally there’s the infamous El Rio hostel , or Rio Hostel Buritaca as its now called ! This is for sure the North Coasts ‘party hostel’ with parties happening on Tuesdays , Thursdays and Sundays - often with DJs . It is situated straight on the river if you need a chill out , and the tubing is the top activity during the day . There’s an extensive food menu , which is on the pricier side , but really big portions ! Personally my favourite part was the cafe , with cakes and coffees , as I don’t really party a lot ! When the bus drops you off , you can either walk 15 minutes down a pathway , or have a moto pick you up and take you to the door .

^El Rio Hostel , Buritaca.

-Also just outside Buritaca is Puerto Alto hostel . Either hike up the ( very steep !) path for around 25 minutes , or have a moto take you there . You can also walk and have a moto bring your bags up . There’s amazing views all the way out to the sea here , plus a swimming pool and food available. There’s some outdoor showers with a pretty nice view too !

Puerto Alto
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^Puerto Alto Hostel , Buritaca.

Palomino , getting there :

- Palomino is the last stop on the bus route from the Mercado público in Santa Marta , and also takes you all the way back to the city in the opposite direction . Again, if you’re heading here from one of the stops along the route , the bus will just pick you up from the side of the road and drop you in Palomino.

Palomino
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^Beach sunset in Palomino .

Palomino , where to stay :

Jaba Jan
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Dreamer Palomino
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El Zoo Hostel & Pool
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-Jaba Jan was also one of my top hostels whilst travelling , if you love community style and very chill hostels , this one’s for you ! It’s about a 10 minute moto from the centre of Palomino , so a bit quieter than staying on the Main Street . There’s a private river you can swim down to reach a secluded beach ( which is a nice contrast from the main busy beach in Palomino !) , I’d recommend doing this swim for the sunset . There’s also family style meals , or more paths you can walk down for quiet beaches . This is somewhere people get stuck , and when you go , you’ll realise why !

- El Zoo is a great hostel for someone travelling on a budget in Palomino. It’s right in the middle of the main street the town is known for , has a small pool , free breakfast and fans , lights and curtains by the beds in the dorm rooms .

^Make your own pizza night at Jaba Jan.

^Dreamer Hostel ,Palomino.

Palomino, what to do:

-There are countless shops and restaurants to explore in Palomino , if you’re looking to buy any jewelry, clothes or souvenirs, here is the perfect place . The main part of Palomino is essentially a long stretch to the beach and you’ll find an endless number of hostels and places to eat down this walkway too .

-Of course , you can visit the beach , but I also really enjoyed doing the tubing ! You’ll be able to find countless places offering tubing along the high street . Our experience started with getting a moto out of town , doing a 30 minute hike up hill with our rubber rings , then finally reaching the river ! The really nice thing about this one was that when we had tubed from the river and reached the sea , we could walk back to our hostel down the beach during sunset .

^tubing down the river in Palomino.

Palomino , where to eat :

-There’s almost an overwhelming amount of places to eat in Palomino , so I’ll just give a few recommendations as it’s more fun to wander the Main Street and see what you fancy ! For delicious pastries and juices , I really recommend Pan’omino , it also has a shady and chill garden area for you to eat in , I believe they also do breakfast ! I also enjoyed Veggie Kitchen Palomino , which is a little pricey on a back packer budget , but not too bad ! It’s great if you’re fancying something fresh in the heat !

Pan'omino Merenderia Cafeteria
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Veggie kitchen
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Pasó del Mango , getting there :

- If you’ve returned from Palomino back to Santa Marta and are still searching for more natural beauty , Paso Del Mango May be the stop for you ! To get there , get the public bus to Bonda ( these buses are usually driving up and down the main highway, or you can get a moto there ) . Moto taxis are usually waiting at Bonda police station to take you up to Paso del Mango .

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Paso Del Mango
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^ Parrots in Paso Del Mango !

Pasó del Mango , where to stay & what to do:

Finca Carpe Diem
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- Although there are many Fincas open for guests in Pasó Del Mango , Finca Carpe Diem is a really unique and wonderful stay . There are 3 swimming pools on 3 different levels , amazing views surrounding the property , and also really good food !

-From here you can go on organised waterfall tours or my personal favourite ; the cacao tour at Finca del cacao ,which includes chocolate face masks and learning about cacao farming . There is also a sunset hike you can do from the hostel . If you were really feeling adventurous, you can hike to Minca from here , but expect it to take you a day there and a day back !

Cacao Farm
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^Finca del Cacao , Pasó del Mango.

^One of the pools at Finca Carpe Diem .

Nothern Colombia, what to expect :

^ Quick weather forecast for Santa Marta .

- I’d say the best time to travel to Colombia is between December - April , if you’re wishing to avoid the rainy season , and can handle the tropical heat !

- Many people will give you warnings about travelling Colombia , especially alone - but I felt very safe my whole trip , especially in the North. Of course , make sensible choices such as not wandering around alone late at night , or having all your valuables on desplay whilst on public transport. If you’re respectful and just keep an eye out , you’ll find the locals to be very welcoming !

- Most places do accept card in Colombia , but if you’re using public transport such as the bus , always keep some cash on you to pay . You may also find some restaurants only take cash , so I would ask if it was possible to pay card there before ordering. Either way , the Peso is a very easy currency to understand once you’ve learnt the conversion from your own currency!

-Most reception staff in hostels speak English , but if you are getting Motos , public transport or ordering food , there’s a good chance you will have to use some Spanish ! Don’t worry about being fluent , using basic phrases you will be able to get what you need ! Plus , you’ll be surprised how much of a language you can pick up just through these small conversations!

^View from Puerto Alto hostel , Buritaca.

Overview :

And that’s it ! Of course there are many more amazing places all across Colombia , but these were the ones I feel the most knowledgeable about . I hope this gave you an insight into travel in the North of Colombia , and hopefully helped plan out your journey a little too , feliz viaje !

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