The Sinai seems like a scary place. There are lots of security checkpoints. There are rules on needing police escorts for certain parts. Travel advisories are up for large swaths of both the Northern and Southern Sinai. So let's avoid the Sinai right?
Not so fast. Yes the Sinai has some weird rules and quirks in terms of getting around. However, the Sinai is an extremely unique area. Hiking, snorkeling, cultural activities, historical monuments, nightlife - you can expect to find all of these in the Sinai. It's a far cry from Cairo, Luxor, or Alexandria, maybe you could even say relaxing. And with a location adjacent to Eilat, Israel, and Aqaba, Jordan, it's a melange of Egyptian craziness with Levantine comfort.
So how should you spend your time in the Sinai? Great question, and I'm here to answer that!
Situated at the very northern end of the places you would visit in the Sinai, Taba is right over the Israeli border. What is there to see in Taba? Unfortunately not much. Taba's main draw is that visitors crossing the land border from Israel can get cheaper hotels than in Eilat (and the big casino). Taba is also (mostly) exempt from the Sinai visa, a 400 LEP entry tax to visit the Sinai (separate from an Egyptian tourist visa). This makes Taba a great destination if you want Eilat's beaches, reefs, and temperature without Eilat's price tag.
Perhaps the only real "unique" site in Taba is Salah ad-Din's (Saladin in English) castle fortification guarding the port in the Bay of Aqaba. This unique set of ruins involves taking a boat from the mainland - a fun experience in and of itself - and visiting one of the few island forts I can recall in the Middle East. Visiting costs about 5 USD including the boat and is a great change of pace if you are staying in Taba.
Ahh yes the casino. Granted the hotel isn't too shabby either but the Taba Sands is on the map as the massive casino right over the Israeli border. If you are staying in Taba and looking to primarily lay on the beach, the casino is actually a great way to spend some time. If you are looking for any truly unique experiences, keep driving south
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Dahab
Dahab means "Gold" in Arabic, and that may be an understatement of how much value this town adds to the Sinai. Situated 2.5 hours south of Taba and 45 minutes north of Sharm el Sheikh, Dahab is a bohemian paradise and long a hub for backpackers. A lush downtown boardwalk, beautiful craggy rocks surrounding town, snorkeling sites galore, and a laid back vibe that may be the only one of its kind in Egypt all make the town unforgettable. When I visited, a friend of mine said it felt more like Thailand than the Middle East.
Unfortunately, "high end" lodging is a little sparse nowadays in Dahab now that the Le Meridien (sadly - for both high end hotel lovers and cheap travel fiends [I paid $40 a night to stay here]) closed. However, for budget travelers there are a slew of great options (see the bottom of the article). If you can't stay here and make it a jumping pad for the wonderful hiking and snorkeling on the peninsula, a day trip or at least a stop on the way back from Saint Katherine's is in order!
The Blue Hole is among the most famed scuba and free diving locales in the world. A 1,000 meter deep sinkhole covered in coral and brimming in sea life, the Blue Hole is a stunning place. While you probably aren't up to free diving here (there's a whole grave yard honoring people who have died trying to dive), the snorkeling is fantastic and very affordable. Lots of local providers will drive you to the site, rent you snorkeling gear, and provide you lunch for under 10 USD a person. There are also scuba companies that will take you into the Blue Hole - regardless of your level as they will take you far enough under water based on your level. This includes new divers - it's pretty much safe to scuba under 15 feet with an instructor regardless of your experience.
The center of Dahab is an impressive street following the waterfront. Along it, you will find restaurants, shops, and other cool places to hang out. While these locales almost exclusively cater to tourists, you will likely find some very cool souvenirs (think delicious mint tea or artistic prints done on cloth or papyrus). The restaurants are also surprisingly decent; good seafood is available at many of the establishments. Al Mashaya stays active well into the night so you will have ample time to explore
Dahab is a great launchpad for various day trips and day hikes in the region (see Saint Catherine's if you need any further examples). One of the best hikes in the area is the White Canyon (and its sister canyon the Colored Canyon). The trail provides great scenery of the craggy mountains that make up the Sinai Peninsula!
Another great outdoor spot, Wadi Gnai is an attractive granite valley with an oasis, Bedouin gardens and beach strip. The area is great for hikes, dinner in the mountains and rock climbing. The beach areas have great coral reef viewing as well. Few people come this far south, so the table corals are in better shape than near town.
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Saint Catherine's
If you asked me what is the one place in the Sinai you cannot experience elsewhere, it is Saint Catherine's. An incredibly important holy site for both Jews, Muslims, and Christians, the town of Saint Catherine's is situated at the bottom of Mount Sinai (or Mount Moses as the locals actually call it) where Moses is believed to have received the Ten Commandments. The "town" is actually mainly pilgrimage lodging and the world's oldest continually active Christian monastery dating back 1500 years (and is literally older than the Muslim faith).
Some logistics on Saint Catherine's. You will either want to book a tour with a religious tour group to stay in the pilgrimage lodgings or take a day trip, as passage from the coast inland is highly regulated for security reasons. In terms of actually planning a day trip, expect to literally leave your hotel at 11 PM the night before. See my description on Jabal Mousa to fully understand why - I promise it is worth the hassle.
Mount Sinai - or Mount Moses as the locals call it - is the second highest mountain on a very mountainous peninsula. 2,285 meters (7,497 feet) tall, the climb typically takes 3 hours up and a little less down. At the top of the mountain are two prayer spaces - one Muslim and on Christian - where pilgrims pray after ascending. The top is believed to be the place where Moses received the Ten Commandments, a component of Jewish, Christian, and Islamic belief.
The twist to visiting Mount Sinai is that everyone ascends to reach the top right before sunrise. Atop the mountain you will see one of the most beautiful sunrises in any location on the planet (my pic on top is my background pic here on Thatch). The issue with this is that for a 5 AM sunset with a three hour hike in the dark (bring your own flashlight), you will have to arrive at the mountain at around 2 AM. Factor in the 2-3 hour drive to locations like Dahab and Sharm and you're leaving your hotel at 11 PM or midnight. Yikes
Should you do this? Absolutely. Mount Sinai and Saint Catherines are the must-see attractions on the Sinai. If you are worried about this, make sure to stay over on either side (i.e. if you are staying three evenings, do this on night two so you can sleep when you get back)
Saint Catherine's Monastery is the oldest continually operating monastery in the world. Dating back to the 500's, the complex appears more like a fort than a church. The "centerpiece" of the complex is a drab shrub that supposedly was the Burning Bush through which the Divine spoke to Moses. While this little plant is incredibly underwhelming, the church and complex as a whole are not.
When visiting, there are very limited hours to enter the church and its surroundings. You will likely finish your trek up Mount Sinai at 8 or 9 AM. After this, you will have an hour or two to relax, eat some food, drink some coffee, or take a nap. At this point, the monastery opens up for visitors. The church - while small - is a treasure trove of historic icons and fascinating old religious art and architecture. Also within the compound is an impressive museum filled with Eastern Orthodox icons and art; if you want to view the museum, mention this to your tour guide in advance as the museum hours do not always align well with the hours of the church visitation.
As with visiting any Eastern Orthodox Church, dress modestly. This means no shorts, tank tops, or revealing clothes. If this does not describe your ideal hiking gear, make sure to bring a change of clothes to enter the monastery
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Sharm el Sheikh
The bottom tip of the Sinai peninsula and technically the only city on the Red Sea, Sharm el Sheikh (or just Sharm informally) is the traditional resort town for the Sinai. With a fairly large international airport and a bevy of hotels - about half all inclusive and half not - that historically catered to Russian tourists, Sharm has some of the better tourist infrastructure in all of Egypt. Unfortunately, Sharm hasn't been quite at its peak over the last decade. Even then, if you are looking for the most luxurious hotels in the Sinai, the most options for snorkeling/scuba, and good convenience to get in and out, Sharm is the best place to use as a springboard.
An important site predominantly given this is one of the two main entry points to the Sinai (the other being Taba where you can walk to Israel or take a ferry to Jordan)
Ras Mohammed is the highlight of visiting Sharm. Home to the best coral reefs and magnificent protected waters, Ras Mohammed is a diver's paradise. Many scuba centers offer day trips to the maritime park. If diving and scuba are high on your priority list, most of these sites (except for the Blue Hole in Dahab) will be significantly cheaper from Sharm as the sites are closer
The mosque is surprisingly new, but serves as a major landmark with Sharm. Built to mirror Ottoman architectural styles, the Sahaba Mosque now serves as the centerpiece of "Old Town" in Sharm
"Old" is a bit of an oxymoron in a city that really did not exist until the 1980's. However, the "Old Market" of Sharm offers a fascinating glimpse into local Egyptian life. The stores here cater primarily to locals, meaning you will see foods, items, and other establishments that really embody what modern Egypt is all about. It's a great change of pace if you are looking for something less touristic.
Naama Bay is the center of touristic Sharm. With large promenades, beach access, and touristic restaurants and shops, this area is usually very lively, especially at night. While it is not the most mind blowing place in the world, it does provide lots of great entertainment in the evening
Should you actually go to Pacha? Unless you are looking for a wild night club probably not. That said, this listing helps to prove a point - Sharm has nightlife. In fact, there are lots of night clubs around the city, Pacha being probably the most famous and longstanding one.
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My name is Mark, and I've been travel planning since the age of 11.
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