Are you a (solo) backpacker traveling to Nica? This guide will show you all you need to know: popular backpacking destinations, off-the-beaten-path hidden gems, amazing hostels & food spots, suggested itineraries, overall Nica tips on transportation and budgeting. And much more!

Guide structure
1. Introduction

2. Basic Nica tips
- money
- language
- food
- visa
- safety
- moving around

3. Itineraries

4. Destinations
- San Juan del Sur
- Ometepe
- Popoyo
- Granada
- El transito
- Leòn
- Corn Islands

Popoyo, Nicaragua

Managua, Nicaragua

San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua

Corn Island, Nicaragua

Rivas, Nicaragua

Granada, Nicaragua

El Tránsito, El Salvador

Nicaragua

León, Nicaragua

Backpacking Nicaragua: the Ultimate Guide

Welcome to this Ultimate Backpacking Nica Guide! My name is Margherita, or Mima for short. I’m a 27-year-old psychologist from Milan, Italy, and I’ve been a full-time backpacker since January 2023. Somehow, I’m not ready to quit just yet!

Out of all the places I’ve visited, I have a profound love for Latin America, my first solo destination; love for its culture, its food, its people, its landscape. Latin America stretches for thousands of kilometers, from sunny Mexico to icy Patagonia; it’s so diverse and rich, but somehow all the different countries share the same vibe: the language remains the same, and so do the warm hospitality, the loud music, the bright colours. It’s like they’re siblings, who look somewhat alike but have their own peculiarities as well. 

Amidst all this, lies Nicaragua. A small-ish country with 6.6 million inhabitants, Pacific Ocean touching the West coast, Caribbean Sea the East; Honduras up North and Costa Rica down South. Managua is the capital city, Nicaraguan Còrdoba the currency. The larger part of the country is occupied by a thick and impenetrable jungle, making the West coast the place to be.

I’ll be completely honest with you, dear reader: when I first started my 6-month trip to Latin America I didn’t even plan to visit Nicaragua. I knew nothing about it, as I’m sure many of us don’t; what’s there to do, to see, to discover in Nicaragua? It was only after hearing so many positive comments about it from fellow backpackers that I decided I had to see for myself. And I’m oh so glad I did! It quickly became one of my top three favourite countries and I can’t wait to go back one day. 

The goal of this guide is to inspire you to book your flight and go check it out for yourself. To visit the markets, to talk to the locals, to catch some waves and hike some volcanoes; to feel the magic and let the good vibes fill up your heart. I encourage you to read carefully through my recommendations, but to only use them as guidance, as a starting point: the exploration, the finding hidden gems is what’s truly gonna make your trip the most memorable one yet.  Buckle up! ¡Vamos a descubrir Nicaragua!

Whether you’re an experienced traveler or a complete newbie, here are some essential tips to keep in mind:

The exchange rate of the nicaraguan Còrdoba is around 1EUR to 40NIO, or 1USD to 37NIO. I spent an average of 40$ a day including everything - flights, buses, accommodation, meals, activities, sim card, souvenirs. I could have spent more; I couldn’t have spent much less without missing out on amazing experiences. As expected, cash is king: make sure you always have some on you. You can withdraw it at any ATM, as long as your card works internationally. There’s several ATMs in the main towns, but if you go to more remote areas make sure to stock up before being stranded cashless in the Nicaraguan outskirts. Pro tip: make sure to bring some US Dollars with you, you will need them if you decide to cross the border by land from neighbouring countries.

Hola, buenas! My mind goes back to the thousands, millions of times I was greeted with these words and a sunny smile, walking into shops or food stands, and getting on chicken buses. Nicaraguan people are some of the friendliest I’ve met, but in order for us gringos to access their stories and their heart, we need to put some effort into making communication smoother. I highly, highly recommend that you learn some Spanish before your trip. The basics are, I would say, mandatory: how to greet, introduce yourself, ask for directions, etc. But my invitation to you is to go beyond the basics, learn more vocabulary, practice on the apps before you leave. Expecting everyone else to speak English is pointless, and learning Spanish will allow you to not just find your way around, but also to establish a connection, to build relationships, to ask questions and to understand the answers. And it will be so, so worth it!

Nicaraguan cuisine is not renowned for being especially rich or diverse. As a vegetarian, I basically ate rice and beans for almost every meal, for five weeks, with the occasional appearance of a fried egg and fried plantain. For non-vegetarians, you’ll find grilled chicken and fish, always paired with rice. What’s really delicious is the fruit: mangos, pineapples, watermelons, avocados, dragonfruit, cantaloupe; juicy, sweet, just ripe! I couldn’t get enough. An average street food meal will set you back 40 - 100 NIO, a restaurant meal anywhere between 200 and 800 NIO - with meat dishes obviously being more expensive. Street food is usually safe to eat; just keep an eye out for anything that rings a bell in terms of cleanliness or hygiene, such as bad smells, lots of flies, food that is not cooked fresh for you, undercooked meat. Tap water is not safe to drink. Pro tip for my fellow veggie travellers: the word “carne” doesn’t translate to “meat”, but rather to “beef meat”; so if you want to make sure your meal is vegetarian, you have to ask for "sin carne, sin pollo, sin pescado". Porfa :)

As of November 2024, all EU, USA, and UK can get into Nicaragua with just their passport, with at least six months of validity left, and stay for 90 days in the country for tourism purposes. I highly recommend searching for updated information concerning your homeland before you travel to Nica. There’s only one international airport, in Managua, but it’s not well connected, so a lot of backpackers travel from Honduras or Costa Rica and cross the border by land. If you choose this option, like I did, expect a relatively smooth but really long travel day. As long as you have your passport, you’re not carrying anything illegal with you and you have some US dollars cash with you to pay for the visa, everything will work out just fine. Pro tip: if you’re crossing the border from Costa Rica in Peñas Blancas, you’ll find small stands by the road that sell local sim cards: I’d recommend getting one asap so you can access online maps and WhatsApp if needed. 

The first reaction of my Italian parents when I told them Nicaragua was up next on my trip was: no it is not. Bless them! Nica has a complicated political history, having been colonized by the Spanish conquistadores, by the Mexican empire and then by the United States. After the revolution in 1993, for the next century Nicaragua went through a dictatorship, a civil war, the birth of the Republic, a new occupation by the US, and a Marxist revolution. The political situation reached a critical point in 2018, with uprisings and episodes of violence hitting the country. Today Nicaragua is formally a Republic: but it only takes a little observation and a few conversations to understand the reality is very different. 

Nicaragua is a relatively small country and as I mentioned all the hotspots are located on the West coast; from Leòn to San Juan del Sur is only a 4-hour drive. There are different ways you can move around, depending on your budget and the experience you’re looking for. I’ll start with my favourite option: chicken buses. A so called “chicken bus” is an old American school bus, yellow or maroon on the outside, leather seats on the inside, LED lights and various pictures for good luck, constant loud music, and the craziest driver you’ve ever met sitting behind the steering wheel. The honk is overworked and used randomly - until you figure out the code and realize it’s not random at all. A chicken bus stop can be signalled by a sign if you’re in town; but could also be a rock on the side of the road, or even virtually invisible; for most routes, there’s no fixed timetable; that’s why the Spanish will come in handy. 

Here are some ideas on how I’d spend 3, 4 and 5 weeks in Nicaragua. Most people drive the bus down from Honduras (or from Guatemala through Honduras) and into León, or drive up from Costa Rica into San Juan del Sur, which is what I did. Not many travellers fly into Managua because the airport is poorly connected and flights tend to be very pricey; also, Managua itself is not a great place to be. You can choose to follow these itineraries from North to South or from South to North depending on your previous and following destinations.

- 6 nights in Corn Islands (1 night in Managua)

I am strongly convinced Ometepe is magical. As in: it’s a portal to another dimension; it’s home to fairies and spirits; some sort of divine energy flows on this island and will seduce you like no other place. If you think I’m mad, you might be right… but you might (will) agree with me once you make it there. Just the fact that Ometepe is an island, made out of two volcanoes, that lies in the middle of a giant volcanic lake, and has small lakes and rivers within itself, is magical on its own: a gorgeous matryoshka of fire, land and water, like I haven’t seen anywhere else in the world. 

After enjoying your espresso with a view at El Navegante, you’re ready to board your ferry. I recommend staying in the main town, Moyogalpa, and discovering the island by scooter. I stayed at Casa de Gio, a cute guesthouse with a nice patio and lovely hosts who will help you organise activities and bike rental. A note on driving on Ometepe: it’s not for the weak or the inexperienced. The roads are quite fine but very unpredictable: meaning, they’re okay until they’re not: a huge pothole hidden by the shadows of the trees, sneaky gravel, sticks or logs or fresh cows’ souvenirs, stray dogs who chase bikes for fun, chickens roaming around, etc. It takes a confident driver to avoid all these unforeseen obstacles in a safe way. I had driven abroad before and I was comfortable taking myself and my mate around this beautiful island. 

I had heard about Popoyo from fellow backpackers and decided to go have a look. Maybe that’s the reason why my two mates and I were a bit surprised when the bus dropped us off along a dirt road in the middle of absolute nowhere and said: there you go, Popoyo. As we were walking in the Nicaraguan sun, backpacks on our backs and very little clue as to where we were going, my mate Jake stated: well, I did think Popoyo was going to be more… established… The not disappointed, but maybe slightly concerned way he said it, after a long journey on various buses and the scorching sun hitting us mercilessly, contributed to turning it into one of the most iconic inside jokes on my trip.

Popoyo is becoming more and more popular thanks to the numerous and high-quality surf spots, but somehow it feels like it stayed true to itself and hasn’t turned into a tourist hotspot just yet. The town is split apart by a river, and there’s no bridge to cross it: you have to walk from one side to the other, which is a nice beach walk at low tide and a nightmarish river crossing at high tide. I stayed at Cafè con Leche (South), a lovely hostel with a pool, a shared kitchen and nice terrace. Another gem is Amahula (North) which is a beachfront hostel with a social vibe and great food. 

Welcome to my favourite spot in Nicaragua! Granada is a wonderful mix of nature, city life, shopping, adventure and party. If there’s one place you can't skip, it’s Granada! I spent almost a week there and I recommend you do the same. Here’s some highlights: 

The hostel scene is really nice, most hostels have a pool, a social calendar and will help you arrange tours and activities. My recs are De Boca en Boca (friendly staff and cheap tours) and Oasis (lovely breakfast, in house massages and nice kitchen).

You might have heard about the Free Spirit, a legendary surf hostel hidden somewhere along the Nicaraguan coast; you might have heard tales of waves, of friendships, of romance, of family dinners and hammocks and yoga on the deck. And you might wonder: is it worth all this hype? The short answer, my reader, is yes. The long answer lies in every single time the guests go to the reception asking if they can extend their stay for one more night, one more then I’ll go, promise… It lies in the thousands of pictures of smiley, tanned faces in thousands of people’s phones across the globe, with the iconic infinity pool in the background. It lies in the fact that every single person I’ve spoken to who’s been at the Free Spirit, no exception, agrees on how immaculate the vibes are in El Trànsito.

The one thing I remember about Leòn is: the impossible heat. I felt like I was going to melt into the floor any minute, and yet I never let myself, because there was a whole new city to discover and I needed to stand on my own legs. My legs took me to the main square, where I people-watched in the shade of a tree while sipping on an iced drink, and then they took me to the Cathedral, whose main attraction is the gorgeous view from the roof at sunset. The domes almost look like white sand dunes that found themselves needing proximity to God and decided to move on top of a church: and the result is just breathtaking. 

Disclaimer: I didn’t make it to the Corn Islands myself. Yet I felt the need to include them in this guide because their popularity among tourists is rising, and rightfully so: think gorgeous tropical islands, with white sand beaches and lush palm trees, postcard-worthy to say the least. The reason I skipped them is purely because I didn't have enough time (extending my stay at Free Spirit got a lil out of hand) and because it’s a bit of a hassle to get there, like for any remote spot. You can find more info here: 

Dearest reader, we have now reached the end of this guide. I hope it served its purpose: to inspire you to explore the complex beauty of this country and to give it a chance to conquer your heart. I guarantee you, it will :)

My first approach in Nica was in lovely San Juan del Sur. After an odyssey journey from San Josè, Costa Rica the first chicken bus of my life dropped me off in this lovely surf town. Lively, young and sunny, San Juan is a surfer's paradise with plenty of surf breaks for all levels. If you like surfing, partying and enjoying the beach life, I’m sure you’ll love it here. A little caveat: San Juan is more touristy and commercialized than the next destinations on this itinerary; maybe it’s the proximity to Costa Rica, maybe it's the party-hungry crowds, whatever it is I was happy to experience it as my first stop rather than the last: it’s somewhat of a softer approach which will get you excited to dive deeper into the true Nica spirit.

When it comes to food, you can choose between eating at local comedores in the market (mixed plate for a dollar or two) or at the many western cafes such as The Garden, with a lovely green courtyard where to escape the heat.

Around Granada you’ll find Volcan Masaya (go with a tour, and after a small panoramic hike you’ll be able to see red lava in the crater), Laguna Apoyo (you can get a tuktuk and enjoy the tranquil volcanic lake, go kayaking, swim and chill at Paradiso Hostel) and the 365 Islets (the tour will take you for a boat ride around hundreds of tiny volcanic islands, you’ll explore some of them while sipping on a fresh coconut and learning about Nicaraguan pirates). 

One last tip: the Treehouse Hostel is famous for its Jungle Raves, and it really deserves the hype. You can even stay at the hostel for a full jungle immersion, but I found the booking process kind of tricky: you have to book very early, there’s a minimum number of nights you can book, and the hostel is not open every day of the week. Alternatively, you can opt to just join the party: every Friday a bunch of gringos will get picked up in downtown Granada and make their way to the jungle; the last kilometers will be driven in a jeep which is so much fun. You’ll make it there just in time to enjoy the most beautiful sunset, and then it’s time to party! You can get drinks and even nice food there; you can also get a tattoo and collect 10 empty cups for a free drink (don't tell anyone!!). You’ll dance the night away surrounded by tall trees and fireflies and you’ll have to ask your mates to pinch you, because how is all this even real? Get your tickets in advance and be ready for one of the best nights of your life! You’ll get driven back to town in the jeep + bus that leave at different times during the night (or morning).

Backpacking Nicaragua: the Ultimate Guide

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