Bangkok to Chiang Mai Train - Not the usual route!
Starting the journey
The journey starts as soon as you arrive in the train station. If you were opting for the sleeper train, it would definitely be wise to book this a few days if not a week in advance, and even further if you want a more private berth. The excitement of turning up to the train station and booking a ticket only and no allocated seat is certainly an experience. If you like the idea of having a space to sit on the train that is not so cramped I would recommend arriving at the train station up to an hour before the scheduled departure date (Use www.thailandtrains.com for rough departure times). If however you want a real experience, leave it until the last 15 minutes, if you are lucky you’ll find a bench to perch with locals, if you are even more lucky (dependant on what you consider luck to be) you will have no seat and enjoy the experience of sitting on the steps between carriages. The first 10 minutes perhaps is a little nerve racking as you accept you could, if you chose, touch the ground as the train races along the tracks. As you leave the city limits the views of the homes up to the tracks, the open spaces and jungles quickly encourage you to forget the potential risk of having nothing in the way of you being on the train or off the train and instead realise there is so much to Thailand outside of its cities.
Stepping away from the dramatic story for a minute to the practical requirement. The cost of train journeys between local stops will set you back only a few £. I have never had an issue getting a ticket, if you are happy with the lottery of a seat or not you won’t have a problem buying a ticket from any station. At every stop local sellers will jump on the train for a few stops selling food and water. I would suggest you buy a bottle of water before you board the train for ease only, otherwise buy the food they are selling, its simple, often wrapped in leaves and it tastes great, all the locals will be eating it too. At the time of writing 50bht will be enough for a small meal.
Ayuttaya
Back to the journey. The first stop you should get off and explore is Ayutthaya, this can be a pretty busy stop and location due to its close location to Bangkok, if you love a bit of history and old temples this is definitely worth a stop. Two nights here is enough, first day arrive find your accommodation, find some food and relax with a Chang.
Second day, wake up early and head for the ruined temples. When you arrive at the first ticket office you will have many different options of tickets available, the option to buy the ticket that grants access to all temples and ground is the sensible choice, not only is it easier than buying a new ticket for each site (there are several) it is cheaper if you plan on visiting more than 2 or 3 locations. If you didn’t have too many changs the evening before and wake up by 9am you’ll find that the sites and temples are pretty empty, so much so that you’ll likely walk around with only a few others and be able to capture some photos of the temples without countless people in the background. Once you have spent the day walking around the old temples, start the walk back home, at about 10 minutes from Baan Baimai you'll start walking past a number of local restaurants, pick any one of them, they are all great!
Phitsanulok
Third day, time to get back on the train, this time you want to aim to buy a ticket for Phitsanulok, the journey is only a couple of hours and the town offers a delightful exploration of Thai cuisine and history. This city, with many ancient temples and historic buildings, provides a serene backdrop to a culinary and cultural adventure.
Phitsanulok is a treasure trove for food lovers, with street food, noodle bars and local restaurants dotted thoughout the town. My time here was predominantly spent savoring the local cuisine, and one particular experience stands out. There's a hawker stand, run by a wife and husband duo, that's not to be missed. The husband, a police officer by day, transforms into a culinary maestro by night. Although the name of the stand escapes me, it's easy to spot with the unique sight of a uniformed officer expertly maneuvering the wok. The food here is exceptional, an excellent start to Phitsanulok's street food offerings.
An evening and morning would be plenty of time to sample Phitsanulok, if you have more time and want to eat your way around the town add a few days, there is more to see as you travel northwards!
Lampang
Next up I highly recommend a two-day stop in Lampang. In Lampang, I stayed at a charming hotel called Le Neuf run by an incredibly welcoming family. They offer scooter rentals at great prices, which is perfect for exploring the local sights. Using the scooters, a must-visit is Chae Son National Park, where the waterfalls are simply breathtaking — a true showcase of nature's splendor. If you are part of a larger group where a scooter isn't so practical, the hotel will happily organise local taxis that you can book by trip or for the day. As always, agree the price before saying yes!
Another highlight whether by scooter or taxi is Wichet Nakhon. The climb up its stairs may be a bit tiring, but the reward at the top is unparalleled. The panoramic views are stunning, offering a sweeping vista of the surrounding landscape. Atop the mountain, you'll find uniquely designed temples, adding a touch of spiritual serenity to the experience. Don't miss the chance to ring the large bell at the summit; its echo across the mountains is a memory that will linger long after your visit.
Once you have finished exploring for the day and are headed back towards the town you'll no doubt need some food. The Kad Kongta night market is an absolute feast for the senses. As the evening sets in, the market comes alive with an extensive array of food stalls. From local Thai delicacies to mouth-watering street food, there's something to satisfy every palate. The vibrant atmosphere, combined with the delicious aromas and flavors, makes it the perfect spot to indulge in Lampang’s culinary delights.
All that is left to do is now to catch your final train journey to Chiang Mai. Hopefully this has inspired you to extend your train journey and not miss out on the experinces from Central Thailand. There are of course many other towns and villages you can visit along the journey, you can't go wrong with any of them!
If this guide has inspired you to consider a train journey through Thailand or you would like to discuss detailed itineraries let me know and we can set up a call! Tips also appreciated!
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