Kefalonia is one of the most beautiful islands of Greece, located in the Ionian Sea between Zakynthos and Lefkada. Picturesque towns and some of the brightest blue beaches steal the show. It is also home to Europe's most impressive (and only?) cenote!
We stayed at La Casa di Lena, an Airbnb in the mountains close to Argostoli, the main city on the island. It was super spacious and well equipped, we had 3 bedrooms and 2 bathrooms, but the balcony is definitely the highlight. The only downside was the terrible road to the top of the hill from the main road. We came across a baby hedgehog on our way to dinner!
Argostoli is the main town on the island. There are some sinkholes and watermills near Argostoli. Scientists discovered that the water that disappeared into the sinkholes here, which was strong enough to power these flour mills, reappeared on the other side of the island in the Melissani Cave, so there is an entire cave system underneath the island.
We had dinner in Argostoli twice and we spotted the sea turtles hunt for fish as the tide was lowering. We ended our night with a beautiful full blood moon rise from the bridge. So incredible!
Set alongside a deep bay, Argostoli has a funky charm that grows on you as you sit in the lively main square with the locals, the majority of whom are night owls and have done more than anything to contribute towards Kefalonia’s reputation for fun. Have a good hunt through the market, stroll down the handsome flagstone streets and sip Kefalonia’s famous Robola wine in the welcoming cafes and bars. As you explore, you’ll find monuments left over from the 19th century British Protectorate period on Kefalonia. And for an in-depth introduction to island culture from the 15th to 20th century, pay a visit to the outstanding Corgialenios Historical and Cultural Museum, one of the finest in Greece, and to the extensive Corgialenios Library. The principal settlement of Kefalonia will add a cultural flair to your holidays. The majority of places to eat in Kefalonia are found in seaside resorts, such as Skala, Lassi, Lourdas, Fiscardo, Sami, Agia Efimia and others. Many nice restaurants are also found at the port towns of Argostoli and Lixouri. This is where visitors can find local dishes, including the famous Kefalonian meat pie.
Once upon a time, the seawater disappeared into ‘swallow holes’ (rocky crevasses) at such a rate that it was used to power two flour mills. No one knew where it went until scientists put a dye in the water that ended up in Lake Melissani on the other side of the island. Kefalonia is full of such strange geological phenomena.
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We arrived at the northern most town of the island, called Fiskardo. We parked the car and went for a stroll through this beautiful port town. There are a few short hikes around town. Don't miss the Venetian Lighthouse of Fiskardo and the Roman cemetery.
The picturesque port of Fiskardo is hardly a secret to sailors who visit Kefalonia. But landlubbers also love it for its charming 18th-century buildings, which give it a feeling of timelessness that transcends the cheerful hubbub in its popular fish restaurants and boutiques.
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Our next stop was the prettiest town on the island, Assos. We took in this beautiful place and had lunch here, before continuing to our last stop along the way to our accommodation. The water at Myrtos Beach was só blue, just like the beaches on Lefkada.
Many people think this tiny port is the prettiest settlement on Kefalonia. As you approach, you’ll catch your first glimpse of it from above. Built on a narrow strip of land, its few houses hug the shore, keeping their traditional Venetian-era character amidst a host of tall plane, poplar, palm and olive trees. The 16th-century Venetian castle presiding over the whole scene also invites you to climb up to take a closer look.
The next day we drove around on the Liksouri part of the island. The main attraction on this side of the island is Petani Beach, much like the previous beaches in this video, but this time around we did go for a swim. The big downside to these beaches are the big waves and strong current, making it not so nice to swim or snorkel here.
The best known attraction on the island is the Melissani Cave in Sami. This is a cenote or sinkhole, much like the ones in Mexico and there aren’t many in Europe. If you pay €2 extra you can also visit the Drogarati Cave, so we decided to do that afterwards. It opened at 10, we arrived at 10.45 and were done by 11.30 after waiting in line for a bit more than 30 minutes. The timing was perfect, because the lighting was just right! We walked around Sami town for a bit to check out the tour options for the next day and to book our ferry to the main land. We rented a boat for the next day as well before heading to the Drogarati Cave.
The color of the Melissani lake is stunning if you come at the right time of day. Mid-day around 11 AM to 1 PM is the best time to see the cave, because that’s when the sun is highest in the sky, lighting up the colors of the lake. Unfortunately, that’s also the busiest time to visit, so be prepared to wait. The biggest crowds are generally from noon to 1 PM, so you can avoid most of it by getting there before then.The 50 shades of turquoise in underground Lake Melissani are mesmerising. As you explore it by boat, you’ll think you’re floating in space. With sunlight filtering in from above, the cavern reminds you of a cathedral. And when your boatman bursts into song, the first lilting notes of an Italianate cantata echoing around the walls, you’ll realise that this is a truly heavenly experience. Kefalonia at its most lyrical!
From here we drove through the mountains and along the coast of the entire Southern half of the island. We had a lovely lunch in Poros, went for a dip near Skala (mainly resorts), at the more local Kato Katelios.
The next day we drove back to Sami through the famous local Robola vineyards to pick up our rented boat to explore the hidden bays in the area. It took an hour before everyone was checked in and we could leave. The men had a quick drivers lesson, but it was not their first rodeo. We set off in this brand new boat, it clearly had barely been used before. Our first stop was on the island of Ithaka. Here we spotted a goat that had retrieved in between the rocks to give birth, once again something we hadn’t seen before.
There is something deeply mythical about sailing to Ithaca. The homeland of Odysseus is one of the smallest of the Ionian islands and greets visitors with a lush landscape of tree-lined valleys and coves, cute-as-can-be beaches and proud locals known for their welcoming smile. Just 18 miles from top to tail, Ithaca is an island packed with tradition, history and culture and is the beloved secret of sailing crews and boat owners. So to take a boat trip here from neighbouring Kefalonia, just a couple of miles away, is to spend the day going from gem to gem. The Venetian architecture that perfectly harmonises with the setting, the wood-fringed beaches with their unique little pebbles and the picture-perfect tranquillity that comes so naturally… By the time you’re finished, you’ll feel like you’ve had a tantalising taste of your next main holiday destination. DON'T MISS Depending on your choice of boat trip or if you hire your own boat, your experience will include some of the below: The port of Vathi A naturally deep harbour, Vathi oozes quaintness and charm. Take your time to explore the waterfront and narrow streets, drinking in the architecture and atmosphere. You can enjoy local tastes at one of the many tavernas and, of course, gaze at the adorable little island of Lazareto in the bay, with its clutch of trees and 17th century chapel. The beaches Around 15mins away by taxi from Vathi (or as part of your boat trip) are some wonderful beaches to discover. The turquoise-watered Filiatro is the most popular and cosmopolitan beach in Ithaca. And over on the other side of the island is Piso Aetos, with its little white pebbles. But many consider Gidaki the best beach because of its lush vegetation and open bay, allowing visitors to spread out and enjoy the view. Port of Kioni Kioni is love-at-first-sight material… a picturesque little fishing village up the coast, with flower-filled patios and a gorgeous waterfront. Some boat trips organise an early-evening dinner here. Monastery of Katharon It’s worth seeking out the island’s highest point, not just because the Katharon Monastery is a landmark, but because it offers breathtaking views of Ithaca and Kefalonia. It’s positioned so that the steeple is visible from every part of the island. Stavros Continuing north, you reach the village of Stavros, next to which Odysseus’ Palace is rumoured to have been built. A scale model of the palace (known as Homer’s School) is found in the village along with a small archaeological museum. Excavations in the area have unearthed findings indicating that Ithaca has been inhabited since the end of the third millennium BC.
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Our favorite restaurant on the island was Mpotsolos! This local tavern in the mountains was full of locals enjoying the traditional Greek dishes. The beef steaks here were insane, you can share them with 2 people for only €12. We loved this place! Cherry on top was the owls that serenaded our dinner all evening.
I'm a solo female backpacker exploring the world on a budget. I have been travelling full-time for the past 2 years across all of Mexico, Central America, Southern Africa, Southeast Asia and Europe. As the journey continues you can follow along over on my Youtube channel and more guides will become available.
