A Guide to Wasat al-Balad: Downtown Amman
A Guide to Wasat al-Balad: Downtown Amman
Mark Fedoronko
Available for hire
When you think of visiting Jordan, you probably think of the impeccable edifices of Petra and the other worldly formations of Wadi Rum. And you'd be right that these are the highlights of a trip to the Hashemite Kingdom.
However, there is a lot more to see around the country. Amman, a 5 million person metropolis, is a surprisingly sleepy but charming city to start off your trip with lots of things to see. The historical center, called Wasat al-Balad (وسط البلد), can provide you with a lovely day of sightseeing, good eats, and intriguing shopping. Follow this guide for some tips!
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Things to Do
Amman Citadel (Jabal al-gala'a/جبل القلعة)
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Probably the main site to see in Amman, the citadel is a treasure trove of ancient ruins dating from as far back as 1600 BCE to as recent as the 800's. Some of the best sites include the Roman Temple of Hercules;
the Umayyad Palace, mosque, and water cistern;
The Byzantine church; and the Jordan Archeological Museum.
A few tips of advice for visiting. The views from the citadel are phenomenal, specifically of Wasat al-Balad below and the large Jordanian flag that flies over Amman. If you want to see sunset over the city, the citadel is the best place to go. Even if you do not want to pay admission, the citadel parking lot will let you enjoy the beautiful sunset over the city.
Further bit - while you can walk from the citadel into Wasat al-Balad, it is a steep hill. If you are in shape and willing to walk the dustier roads into the city center, by all means walk. However, you may benefit from taking a cab/Careem to (and/or from) the citadel.
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Roman Theater
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Situated on the eastern edge of Wasat al-Balad, the Roman amphitheater dates back to the 2 century CE. The theater is a great place to explore and climb its impressive stairs. There is also a museum on Jordanian folk customs adjacent to the theater.
If looking for a really unique experience, see if there is a concert or event going on at the theater while you are in town! It is certainly the most unique place to listen to music in all of Jordan (bar maybe the famed Jerash festival).
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Roman Nymphaeum
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While there's nothing to enter here, the Nymphaeum is an impressive ruin to see from the street. Built in the 2nd century AD like the theater, it is a partially preserved Roman fountain. This nymphaeum is believed to have contained a 600 square meters pool which was three meters deep and was continuously refilled with water. It is certainly worth the walk by
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Grand Husseini Mosque
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While not technically open to non-Muslims, the Grand Husseini Mosque is one of the main sites in Wasat al-Balad. Dating back to 1924, the mosque is one of the main centers of worship in the downtown area. The architecture is typical to that of most mosques in the region
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Places to Eat
Hashem Restaurant Down Town
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This is a pretty famous choice. Around for decades and situated in an alleyway, Hashem is well known as one of the best spots for felafel and hummus in Amman. Even the King is known to get food here once in a while. However, make sure to venture beyond these two known quantities. The baba ghonouj (which admittedly is hard to find in comparable restaurants) is creamy and among the best I've had. The sabaha - similar to hummus but with less chickpea puree - is also worth a sample. While I haven't had it, the fatteh - a yogurt and pita dip finished with nuts - is supposedly also a fantastic choice.
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AlQuds Restaurant (Jerusalem Restaurant)
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Another institution, Al Quds (Jerusalem in Arabic) is a well known restaurant serving authentic food in Wasat al Balad. While not known as the "best" restaurant in the city, Al Quds is one of the best restaurants in Amman to sample mansaf - the national dish of Jordan. The rice dish with meat and finished with a yogurt sauce is hard to get outside of homes, and Al Quds is probably your best bet for good mansaf without local connections. They also serve a slew of authentic Levantine foods and meats making it a great stop!
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Habibah Sweets حلويات حبيبة
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Habibeh has shops all over Amman and for good reason. The sweets shop has a wonderful array of delicious goodies, its most famous being kunafeh. The melted cheese, filo dough, and syrupy confection is a delicious rich treat to fill in while you explore the souqs of Wasat al-Balad!
As a side note, I highly recommend you also try Nafiseh for kunafeh as well. Habibeh's main rival and a recent arrival in Amman from Syria, it's fun to show off your opinion on where the best kunafeh in Amman is
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Bekdash ice cream downtown
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A truly unique place, Bekdash began selling in Jordan about 10 years ago. The famed ice cream shop in the Souq Hamidiyya in Damascus, the family struggled to stay afloat as the Syrian Civil War ravaged their country. Their solution was to open a shop in Amman. And just like that, Bekdash took off in Amman. With several shops selling their unique ice cream, Bekdash is a truly phenomenal experience.
After pounding the ice cream with a mallet, it will be served and rolled in pistachios (to order ask for a "Booza Arabiya ma'a fustug" - they'll get you exactly what you need). The ice cream is made with a special gum paste that makes it extra stretchy and less prone to melting in the heat.
Bekdash is truly a phenomenal place and I've seen very few ice cream shops that can compare. I highly recommend visiting while in Amman
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Where to Shop
The Gold Souk (سوق الذهب)
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A dazzling display of jewelry, Amman's gold souq is among the finest in the world. Covering only about two blocks, each of the stores sell amazing jewelry of all kinds. If you're feeling adventurous, you can even get pieces customized. The best part is if you make a large enough purchase, the shop owners will likely invite you back for lunch. In my case, I purchased a customized bracelet and was taken into the workshop to watch them make jewelry and eat mansaf with the crew - a great local experience!
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Bukhariyeh Market
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This covers the "main" market in Wasat al Balad. You can find pretty much anything you could want. Clothes, toys, kitchen devices, antiques, spices, nuts, fruits and vegetables, and a whole lot more. Remember if you go to haggle - the first price is NEVER the final price. This is far and away a truly local experience in the heart of Amman
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Souk Jara
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Souk Jaras is a phenomenal weekly flee/artiesan market with all sorts of wares to shop. Set up in Jabal Amman on Fridays, you're sure to find some fabulous buys while here!
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Books@cafe
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And because I put Souq Jara here, I have to include books@cafe as well as it's around the block. A legendary book store/coffee shop in Jabal Amman, you can find a large list of publications in both Arabic and English. The cafe also serves as a meeting point for the often ostracized LGBTQ community in Amman.
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Where to Stay
The House Boutique Suites
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Located on Jabal Amman, this hotel is located near lots of the shopping and restaurants around Rainbow Street - one of the cooler areas in Amman
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Toledo Hotel
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This hotel is split distance between the Abdali neighborhood (home to the King Abdullah I Mosque, the National Gallery of Fine Arts, and Abdali Mall) and the charming Wiebdeh neighborhood
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Nu Fifty Two
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Probably the closest "nice" hotel you'll get to Wasat al-Balad, this is on the far eastern end of Jabal Amman and situated closely to the end of Rainbow Street
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Liv weibdeh
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Jabal el Wiebdeh is a charming and almost bohemian section of Amman filled with charming galleries and cafes. This hotel is near the center of the neighborhood - Paris Circle (Dowr Baris in Arabic). Dara el Fnoun is a fun gallery with a great cafe and can be found nearby to this hotel
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Le Royal Hotel & Resorts Amman
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As you venture further west in Amman, you will find lots of luxury hotels, many of which are outposts of international chains. This hotel (along with the Intercontinental) are the closest to the more historic parts of the city. Situated at 3rd circle, it's still a ways away but you'll be staying in comfort
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Intercontinental Amman (Jordan)
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Just like the previous listing, the Intercontinental is at 3rd circle and is easily one of the most luxurious hotels in the city
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Mark Fedoronko
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My name is Mark, and I've been travel planning since the age of 11.
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