Embrace your inner Sophia Loren by eating Neapolitan pizza in a bikini on the beach. 

Napoli, Metropolitan City of Naples, Italy

Naples, More than Just Pizza 🍕

Napoli has a reputation for being “skipped” by tourists for the Amalfi - but when you look past the graffiti, venture past the pizza crust, and dodge the mopeds - there is so much to see and do. There’s the liquid dripping blood of Saint Januarius, the creamy taste of local buffalo milk mozzarella and ricotta, artists who have opened their doors to me in sunny welcomes, earthquakes, kayaking, soccer, sunsets, and passion! My new lullaby is the screams from my neighbors when the Napoli soccer team is playing.

Italy has been suffering from overtourism and Naples and the Amalfi Coast is no exception. Please be mindful of when you travel (avoid July and August) and exercise caution in highly touristic areas. 

Mediterranean summers are hot! I would avoid traveling to Italy in general in July and August, as the temperatures are steadily 95 degrees F, 35 degrees C, with sweltering humidity. 

Naples is known for its pizza for a reason! With access to the world's best tomatoes and mozzarella, many people come to Naples only for the pizza joints. 🍕

May and September are great times to travel to Naples and the Amalfi coast, but the beaches typically remain open until late October. Remember to drink lots of water and wear loose, breathable clothes if you come in the warmer months.

Movies to See and Books to Read Before Traveling

- Naples airport: This airport is small but mighty! From here, you can take the Alibus into the city with only two stops. 1) Garibaldi, the main train station in Naples with connection to the city's metro and 2) Port. The port stop is right on the water but closest to downtown. 

- Train from Rome: You can take the train from Rome Termini to Naples Centrale in 1 hour and 10 minutes. Tickets are available on TrenItalia and usually cost about 50 euro last minute, or 25 euro if purchased in advance.

In terms of pasta, Campania is known for “la cucina povera” or peasant’s food. It also uses the local produce that we have here on the Costiera Amalfitana as well as the yummy seafood you can find on the coast. This type of food is known for having a high quality and a low cost. You'll see these dishes throughout trattorias and osterias of Napoli:

- Spaghetti alla vongole, or spaghetti con cozze - these dishes are so simple and so good. Spaghetti with clams or spaghetti with mussels. There is no cheese (I think this is a hard and fast rule in Italy - no cheese with seafood pasta) and just a little bit of butter and parsley. Another common seafood you’ll see here other than clams and mussels is octopus. Be careful not to confuse “polpette” (meatball) with “polpo” which means octopus.

- Pasta alla genovese, this is really a trick question. If you order pasta alla geneovese in Genoa, you will get a green pesto pasta. If you order it in Naples, you will get pasta with caramelized onions and some small pieces of pork. We found that out the hard way but were rewarded with a something new and yummy.

- Gnocchi alla sorrentina,  this dish is named from it’s local roots in Sorrento :) A few simple ingredients of potato based gnocchi, dop mozzarella, tomato sauce, baked in a pan and then you add and pecorino on top :) Heaven in a little bowl.

- Pasta allo scarpariello - I had this rigatoni allo scarpariello during a solo dining night and it felt so cozy and comforting. It was so simple yet so good! This one had red pepper, oil, local datterini tomatoes, and local dop caciocavallo cheese. Caciocavallo cheese is easy to spot in the grocery store - it’s tied up in a little ball with a hard rind around it.

Naples is known worldwide for its excellent coffee. If you are a coffee snob, I recommend a tour with Maria Lourdes. 

Coffee Tours

Napoli is also the third most populated city in Italy after Rome and Milan, and it is one of the most densely populated cities in Europe. Napoli was founded in 470 B.C. (!) and has since had a mix of rulers including the Greeks, Spaniards, Bourbons, Romans. I have found the “casual” Greek ruins to be extremely impressive - you will “stumble” upon an amphitheater as part of your daily commute. It’s amazing to thing about the philosophy, art, literature, and other contributions to the world were happening right here in Naples.

There are plenty of tv shows about Naples and its connection to the mafia. But to understand the true Napoli, I recommend watching this lighthearted movie that makes you understand how resourceful Neapolitans are! 

Mixed by Erry (2023) ⭐ 7.1 | Comedy

One of Italy's most famous directors, Paolo Sorrentino, was born and raised in Napoli. Check out his movie, involving Neapolitan soccer star Diego Maradonna, as well as a short showing his inspiration for the film. 

The Hand of God (2021) ⭐ 7.3 | Drama

È stata la mano di Dio: attraverso gli occhi di Sorrentino | Netflix Italia

Fancy an apertivo? I recommend going further afield to the northern beaches.

There are lots of companies that offer tours to Herculaneum, an ancient Roman town right outside of Napoli.

How do you order coffee in Italy? You must go to the cashier first and order. Your scontrino (receipt) is your ticket to paradise. Once you have your scontrino, you have permission to to nestle your way to the bar. After elbow’ing your way up to a spot, the barista places a saucer and spoon in front of you, as well as a little cup of sparkling water, while another barista works on your coffee order. It’s socially acceptable to eat your pastry here, standing up, while you wait. However, the sacred shot of espresso is taken quickly down the gullet, like a shot of fernet, without much fanfare. After you are done, it’s common to leave a small tip of .50 euros. The whole affair lasts 10 minutes but I observe as essential to the rhythm of life in Italy. Italians go back for coffee after lunch, usually, or to take a break with a colleague throughout the work day.

If you want to head to the beach, I recommend heading towards the Amalfi or to the island of Ischia. Check out my guides on those two places next!

Neapolitan author Elena Ferrante, whose first book of a quartet ranked the #1 book of the century by the NYT.

My Brilliant Friend (The Neapolitan Novels, #1)

Naples is harmed by Airbnb. Check out Fairbnb, an organization committed to protecting the local population of Napoli.

Fairbnb.coop - sustainable flats, B&B, rooms, bnb and vacation rentals

The winter in Napoli is fantastic as the temperatures are mild. The Christmas markets are excellent. Do prepare for occasional winter rain.

50 Kalò

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Naples, More than Just Pizza 🍕

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