A local's guide to Ireland's heartlands

A local's guide to Ireland's heartlands

Karyn Farrell
An insider's guide to getting off the beaten track and exploring the lesser-known spots in the midlands of Ireland. If nature, culture and history is your thing, with some excellent cafés & restaurants thrown in for good measure, then this is the guide for you. Avoid the hoards of tourists and head for the midlands to capture the REAL essence of Ireland.
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This guide gives you the lowdown on some of the best places to visit in the Irish midlands including castles, archaeological sites, galleries, museums and some of its most spectacular beauty spots. For the active-minded, there are tips on the best walking & cycling routes, while food lovers will enjoy the insider's guide to the region's best cafés and restaurants serving up quality local produce

The guide includes 31 personal recommendations based on many hours of research and multiple road trips.

The interactive map makes it simple to plan and personalise your own route.

Fore Abbey, Co. Westmeath

Fore Abbey
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In the hollow of a scenic valley stands this monastic settlement with a complex of Medieval buildings,, surrounded by woodland. The Ben of Fore, the second highest point in Westmeath, provides a backdrop. It’s a breathtakingly beautiful place with a fascinating history
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Lough Lene, Co. Westmeath

Lough Lene
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Arguably the most beautiful lake in the county. A peaceful, tranquil setting and a haven for a diverse range of wildlife, it is a Designated Area of Special Conservation. A special place.
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Public sculptures at Multyfarnham Friary, Co. Westmeath

Multyfarnham Friary
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Visit for the extraordinary life-sized reproductions of the Stations of the Cross dotted throughout the grounds. Reputedly modeled on residents of the village at the time, they are almost 100 years old. You don't need to be religious to appreciate the absolute artistry - the detail and facial expressions are haunting and filled with emotion
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Woodfield Café, Birr, Co. Offaly

Woodfield Cafe and Garden Centre
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An organic café located within the grounds of a garden centre, selling produce grown by themselves and local growers and it shows. All of the ingredients are of high-quality & the food is so delicious. The organic sausage sandwich is a must. Great cakes too
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Birr Castle and Gardens, Co. Offaly

Birr Castle Demesne
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Here you'll find one of the world's largest telescopes, the largest treehouse and the world’s tallest box hedges. Birr Castle Demesne boasts 120 acres of delightful gardens and an abundance of exotic plants and wildlife. Particularly stunning garden colours in summer and autumn
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Derryounce Lakes and Walkways

Offaly / Laois border

Derryounce Lakes and Walkways
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Derryounce Lakes and Trails is a 355 acre scenic site comprising lakes, walkways, greenways and forest trails, and is home to a variety of wildlife, birds, plants and insects that thrive in the area. It boasts three looped walking trails, pedestrian-friendly access points, brightly-coloured bird boxes and other quirky features for kids to find.
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Lough Boora Discovery Park, Co. Offaly

Lough Boora Discovery Park
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A wonderful eco-tourism site, teaming with birds and all types of plants and wildlife, in addition to a fantastic sculpture trail. The park is crisscrossed with a number of cycling and walking trails for all ages and abilities with a wild beauty which seems apt for its bogland location.
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Fine, Athlone, Co. Westmeath

FINE
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For the best coffee in the midlands, not to mention the most delicious sandwiches, salads, Buddha Bowls and homemade cakes. Staff are super-friendly and chatty and they also host wine and cheese evenings, and Book Clubs. A little gem
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Luan Gallery
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Overhanging the River Shannon, this beautiful gallery is full of light, with spectacular views across the water, allowing you to submerge yourself in art on one side and beautiful Shannon views on the other. Regular exhibitions feature the work of local and national artists. Free entry
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Exquisite art at the Church of Saints Peter & Paul, Athlone, Co. Westmeath

Church of Saints Peter & Paul
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Stunning stained-glass windows by Harry Clarke, one of Ireland's most important artists & illustrators. Jaw-droppingly beautiful, especially when the light hits them at certain points of the day. Free to visit
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Bastion Kitchen, Athlone, Co. Westmeath

Bastion Kitchen
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Fab café with delicious and healthy food, good coffee and friendly staff. Oh, and the most incredible cakes. Orange and almond polenta cake is off-the-charts good!
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Loughaneane Park and Roscommon Castle, Co. Roscommon

Roscommon Castle
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One of the most important royal castles in Ireland during the late 13th and early 14th centuries. The ruins today are seriously impressive
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Loughnaneane Park
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A scenic recreational park & an important wildlife conservation area, home to a variety of flora and fauna. It's very peaceful, with a designated Bird Walk. The sculpture trail is really cool, with figures from Irish myths and legends.
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Roscommon Abbey

Roscommon Abbey
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One of the most important abbeys in medieval Ireland. Highlights include 13th and 15th century sculptures & friezes with remarkable details
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Rogue & Co Cafe
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Great coffee, homemade cakes and sandwiches. Decor is quirky and eclectic
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Portumna Castle, Abbey, Marina and Forest Park

Portumna Forest Park
@theindietripper
A wonderful family-friendly amenity that will appeal to hikers, walkers, cyclists and nature lovers alike. There are a number of walking and cycling trails of varying distances and for all levels of ability, including the Forest-Friendly route which is wheelchair-accessible. Look out for the designated bird observation point
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Portumna Castle & Gardens
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A magnificent country estate with formal and walled gardens and a series of forest walks leading to some truly jaw-dropping views across Lough Derg
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Lemanaghan Monastic Site

Lemanaghan
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Don't miss the jewel of the site: St Mella’s Cell, a small stone Early Christian oratory. It's hidden from view on first approach, but reveals itself through a gap in the trees. Follow the path to the right of the main site - it's extraordinary
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Heywood Gardens, Co. Laois

Heywood Gardens (Lutyens)
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One of the highlights of the Laois Garden Trail with acres of woodland, lakes, formal gardens and stunning views. Dotted throughout the estate are a number of quirky architectural features and hidden passages which kids will take great pleasure in seeking out.
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Hiking, walking, cycling and nature enthusiasts

Old Rail Trail Moate Train Station
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Interesting fact - scenes from Hollywood's The Great Train Robbery starring Sean Connery were filmed at Moate's picturesque train station, the almost halfway point on this 40 kms Greenway which runs from Mullingar to Athlone. The route is a scenic and peaceful one, past rolling fields and travelling under a series of attractive and well-preserved stone bridges. The track is relatively flat, making it suitable for people of most ages and abilities, and perfect for families. Factor in a pitstop at the Railway Rest coffee kiosk in Moate (open during Spring / Summer months only). They make a mean iced-coffee. Plenty of outdoor seating too
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Dún Na Sí Amenity & Heritage Park
@theindietripper
A good stop-off point on the Greenway at Moate. It has a café on site, as well as a lovely Sculpture Trail and playground. Conveniently it has its own access point from the greenway
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Mullaghmeen Forest
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If you enjoy solitary hikes – the ones where birds and small creatures rustling in the leaves are your only company - then Mullaghmeen is the one for you. It's the largest planted beech forest in Ireland: the definition of a verdant sanctuary
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Portlick Millennium Forest
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Following the shores of beautiful Lough Ree is the Millennium Forest trail: a picturesque and tranquil place with native trees forming a lush green canopy overhead. The soundtrack – bird song and the hypnotic but subtle melody of water lapping at the lake’s edge. Every now and then, the trees give way to natural clearings with gorgeous views of the lake and lands beyond.
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Lough Ree
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The lake is home to approximately 52 islands, the smallest ones occupying a mere one acre in size, while Inchmore, the largest, stands at 200 impressive acres. Bordered in some areas by richly wooded shorelines and broken up at other points into a series of hidden bays, the lake and its environs are a joy to explore. Rich in native flora and fauna, and with a wealth of archaeological remains, the importance of this site to our cultural heritage cannot be overstated.
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Glenbarrow
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The 4km Waterfall Loop takes you through some beautiful woodland areas and forested paths along the River Barrow and is not overly challenging, though some of the uphill steps were clearly designed for giants. Clamp Hole waterfall is spectacularly wild
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Silver River Nature Trail, Cadamstown, Co. Offaly

Cadamstown
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Scenic 7km river looped walk at the foothills of the Slieve Blooms. Route takes in a vast open landscape of green fields punctuated by yellow gorse and honeysuckle, dominated by the Slieve Bloom mountains. May is a wonderful time to visit when the bluebells are in full bloom. Highlights include some picturesque ruins, a waterfall and a dramatic gorge
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Kinnitty Looped Walks Trailhead
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A particularly picturesque forest walk tracing a tranquil route through trees. A high point comes when the trees give way to a clearing with a panorama of the Slieve Blooms ahead. A blue haze lies over the mountains forming a backdrop for much of the route, the skyline perforated with fir trees. Interesting fact - behind the Church of Ireland (pictured) in Kinnitty village you'll find Kinnitty Pyramid, reported to be one of a kind in Europe. A sign tells us it’s a replica of the Pyramid of Cheops in Egypt, built in the 1830s as a burial chamber for six members of the Bernard family of Kinnitty Castle. Absolutely fascinating
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Croghan Hill
@theindietripper
Spectacular 360 degree views across the midlands, with a fascinating history to boot. Standing at 234m above sea level, it affords excellent views of Offaly's bordering counties across three provinces: Westmeath, Meath, Kildare, Laois, Tipperary, Galway & Roscommon. If conditions are right, you can see the Slieve Bloom mountains to the south, the Hill of Uisneach to the west and all the way to the Wicklow mountains in the east.
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Country Houses & Grand Estates

Belvedere House Gardens & Park
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Visit for its scenic location, with six kilometres of tranquil lakeshore and woodland walks. Highlights: 19th century Victorian Walled Garden, Fairy Garden for kids, four play areas and the fascinating Jealous Wall... straight from an 18th century soap opera. Grounds are absolutely stunning, especially on a sunny day - look out for the Gothic Arch and Gothic Gazebo on the outskirts of the vast estate
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Tullynally Castle & Gardens
@theindietripper
A garden of delights awaits you at Tullynally with acres of beautifully maintained and serene 18th century gardens, forest walks, statuary, walled flower gardens and ornamental lakes. Noteworthy varieties of mature trees have been allowed to grow undisturbed and there are quirky features to be found in every nook and cranny.Kids will love the Tullynally Discovery Trail with fifteen fun things to search for. Count the number of goblins, look out for the hungry wolf or the wizard looking down from above, and don’t miss the hobgoblin carved in a yew tree. Just around the corner, a family of llamas is an unexpected find and will spark joy in adults and children alike.
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Emo Court
@theindietripper
Follow the lakeside looped walk and enjoy one of the best viewing points of this magnificent neo-classical mansion. Tips: wonderful views up the mile-long Wellingtonia Avenue, flanked on both sides by majestic sequoia trees which were planted in 1853. The woodland walks are peaceful and a little slice of heaven, walking under a canopy of trees with splashes of colour provided by a variety of plants and shrubs. There are also some wonderful classical statues dotted throughout the formal lawns. It’s worth noting that Irish red squirrels are native to the estate so keep your eyes peeled. You may also spot some rare birds including buzzards and egrets.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Karyn Farrell
📍 Ireland 🌎 ✍️ 📸 Travel writer and photographer. Dublin-based but my heart is divided between France and Italy. Loves city breaks, and seeking out those off-the-radar spots that tourists rarely venture to. I’m the travel planner for all our friends & jump at the chance to put together a hand-picked personalised itinerary for anyone that asks. Art lover and all-round culture vulture. Loves live music, especially jazz. Food-obsessed wine lover - actively seeks out the places where locals eat and drink. Coffee addict Nature lover - never happier than when walking or cycling in the Great Outdoors. Bookworm My itineraries and guides are a snapshot of some of the best off-the-beaten-track places to visit in Ireland and Europe. Expect insider tips on walking trails, places of natural beauty and historical interest, cool bars, cafés and restaurants and where to find the best cup of coffee, glass of wine or live music. You'll also find tips on the galleries & museums that don't feature prominently on the main tourist trails All photos are my own, and each spot has been carefully and personally researched
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