A Self-Guided Weekend in Cairns, Australia: Travel Guide

A Self-Guided Weekend in Cairns, Australia: Travel Guide

Ethan Moy
Cairns is the gateway to the Great Barrier Reef and a dream destination for most, and there's a plethora of online info out there about how to visit. However, this trip can quickly get expensive, not fun, and borderline unsafe if you book the wrong tours or go at the wrong time of year. This guide will give you the best tips that features: - A day-by-day guide of what to see and where to go - Minimal reliance on guided tours, focusing instead on self-driving to cut costs and avoid crowds - How to see the Great Barrier Reef in the best weather conditions - How to do this trip in (a little more than) 72 hours, so that you only have to take one day off Please consider subscribing or tipping if you found this helpful!
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When to Go

As you'll be doing a lot of snorkeling and diving in the open oceans of the Great Barrier Reef, the best weather conditions are low tides, low wind speeds, and clear weather. 

- Low tides: improves water clarity.

- Low wind speeds: enables you to safely go snorkeling or diving

- Clear weather: allows you to see all the colors of the reef. 

With this in mind, please call the tour companies when you arrive in Cairns to ask what day has the best conditions to see the Reef. Do not pre-book tours before you arrive! 

Day 0: Arrival

You can arrive at Cairns Airport (CNS) at any time on this day, but this itinerary assumes that you do so in the evening (around 6-9pm). Immediately upon arrival, rent a car and head straight for Port Douglas, 1 hour's drive north of the airport.

Why Skip Cairns?

In my opinion, Cairns is one of my least favorite cities. The night market is full of touristy souvenirs, foot massages, and overpriced food. The city itself is full of bars, expensive hotels, and poor beaches. You're likely here for nature, beaches, and calm -- Cairns is not the place for it. Instead, Port Douglas has cheaper accommodation and better beaches, and it's the premier departure point for the Great Barrier Reef tour that I'll get into later.

If you have time and daylight, feel free to stop at any or all of these viewpoints on the way to Port Douglas: 

Cairns Botanic Gardens
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Huge selection of local and worldwide plants. Perfect introduction to your trip.
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Palm Cove Beach
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Great beach with a nice row of palm trees. Could get busy, so perfect for just a quick photo.
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Ellis Beach
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Another cool photo opportunity. I recommend choosing between here and Palm Cove Beach.
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Rex Lookout
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Cool lookout point.
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Palm Field
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Good photo opportunity. Watch out for falling coconuts!
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Crocodile Viewpoint
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You might see crocodiles on the riverbanks when crossing this bridge, but I never saw one and would recommend you skip this.
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Arrive in Port Douglas, check into your hotel, and get groceries or eat dinner. 

Where I stayed in Port Douglas

If the pricing doesn't work out for your stay, there are many other options in Port Douglas!

Day 1: Great Barrier Reef Tour

You'll want to book with this company: 

Why Choose Wavelength? (Not sponsored.)

- They are extremely efficient with their schedule! You'll learn about the reef during the 90 minute ride out, followed by 3 cycles of snorkeling and food.

- After each snorkeling session, they give drinks, snacks, and lunch, so you'll never go hungry.

- Snorkeling only, which means that no licence is needed

- Safety record is stellar, and they choose the best spots given the weather conditions. They will also not hesitate to reschedule if the weather conditions turn bad, unlike my first (disasterous) trip when I booked with a different company and we went out in a storm.

- They take all photos of you and the reef, even underwater, so you don't have to worry about getting camera equipment. 

Ultimately, they're definitely worth the $220 AUD I paid for it. 

By the end of your tour, enjoy a nice evening at the beach. 

Four Mile Beach
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Beach.
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Day 2: Daintree Rainforest

Again, you'll have more time to spend here because you're starting at Port Douglas, which is halfway to the rainforest compared to Cairns. Starting earlier is better; however, I recommend starting *no later than 10am* so that you can go on an 11am cruise with Crocodile Express (see below) and visit all the stops without rushing. Note that the 11am cruise will likely have a lot of people from the organised tours, so again, starting out from Port Douglas earlier is better.

Regardless, I recommend leaving the furthest spot on this trip, Emmagen Creek, and heading home *no later than 45 minutes before sunset* so that you have enough daylight to drive the most windy stretch of road, which is immediately north of the ferry. 

To do this tour, head north from Port Douglas towards the first stop, which is a crocodile cruise on the Daintree River. I enjoyed doing this tour myself, which allowed me to avoid the crowds, go at my own pace, and save some money. Notably, I recommend you skip Mossman Gorge, and here's why.

Why Skip Mossman Gorge? 

Simple -- it costs to visit, and there are equally stunning places without the cost. 

Crocodile Express Daintree River Cruises
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One of the river cruise operators to see crocodiles and wildlife. You can get tickets when you arrive.
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Daintree River Cruise Centre
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An alternative company.
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After the cruise, you'll cross the Daintree River on a ferry that costs $49 AUD round trip. The ferry is every 5-10 minutes, and the last one is around midnight, so you have plenty of time. After crossing the river, continue on the road to these next stops.

Mount Alexandra Lookout
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Good photo spot.
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Daintree Discovery Centre
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Not worth the cost to access the boardwalks and exhibits, but stop here for good washrooms and snacks -- there won't be any for a while.
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Jindalba Boardwalk
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Quick (<1km), easy, and free walk near the visitor centre.
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Floravilla Ice Cream Factory
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Great stop for ice cream.
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Madja Boardwalk
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Another easy free boardwalk to see the rainforest. I'd say you can spend around 30-60 minutes here.
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At this point, you've made it to Cape Tribulation! This is a small within the Daintree Rainforest where you can get snacks and use a proper washroom. However, keep in mind that a lot of facilities close in the afternoon, which also works in your favour because there won't be many people on the walks and beaches.

Mason's Swimming Hole
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There's a small fee to access here, but I recommend taking a swim here if you choose not to go to Emmagen Creek.
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Dubuji Boardwalk
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Another short walk.
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Myall Beach
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Beautiful and secluded beach, especially if you arrive here after 3pm, which is around the time that the organised tours leave.
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Kulki Boardwalk
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Another short walk. Don't forget to visit the adjacent viewpoint and beach.
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At this point, you can go to Emmagen Creek, which is on unpaved (gravel) roads. If you don't feel comfortable with that, you can turn around and head back towards Port Douglas. Remember to leave 45 minutes before sunset so that you have enough daylight for the drive back!

Emmagen Creek
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Nice place for views and swimming. Make sure you only swim in specified spots (which are crocodile-free).
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At this point, turn around, head home, and spend a relaxing evening in a hotel pool!

Day 3: Departure

If you have to catch a morning flight, you can skip this day and return home. However, I highly suggest an evening flight, which will allow you to visit a wildlife park and some local spots for last-minute views. 

Wildlife Habitat
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Good spot to see local wildlife. Less crowded than anything in Cairns.
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If you have to head to the airport at this point, feel free to stop at any of the photo spots mentioned on Day 0 instead. If you have a little bit of time, I'd prioritise Crystal Cascades over Barron Gorge (see below). 

Crystal Cascades
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Great waterfalls and swimming.
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Barron Gorge
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A local spot to see the waterfall and walk along the river without paying fees for Kuranda.
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Campbell's Lookout
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Great view of Cairns before your flight home. If you don't have time, you can skip this.
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Why Skip Kuranda Rainforest?

It's quite touristy, and the cost to access Kuranda is astronomically high (I think around $90 AUD). Because we have a rental car, there are better free spots.  

After this, catch your flight home after such a fast-paced weekend! And again, please consider tipping or subscribing if you found this helpful. 

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Ethan Moy
Hi all! I’m currently living in Sydney, but I'm from Los Angeles and have lived in places like Chicago, New York, and Tokyo. Take a look if you: - 🍽️Travel for food!🍽️ Finding places to eat is the hardest part of any trip, but look no further. - 🌆Are mainly a city person!🌆 And you want to see a bit of everything: the big sites, local historical or cultural spots, the occasional day trip out to nature. - ✈️Want layover tips or weekend (2-3 day) trips!✈️ Between school and work, it's hard to travel. That's why I've been slipping away during weekends or squeezing a quick visit to somewhere new during a long layover, and you can too. - 💤Need a full night’s sleep!💤 What’s the point of seeing everything if you’re too tired to enjoy it? Check me out if you want that perfect balance between exploration and relaxation.
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