Bologna essentials
Bologna is a handsome, red-brick city, packed with palazzi. One of Bologna's defining features for the last thousand years has been its university, the oldest in Europe. Many of the buildings and museums which dominate the town's historic centre are legacies of this heritage.
There was a shortage of roomspace for university's many students; Bologna's solution was to build porticoes over its streets, extending the houses above to create more accommodation. These sweeping porticoes are a striking feature of the town's distinctive architecture. Today Bologna is still noticeably a student town, lively and entertaining. The town is also known throughout Italy for its left-wing politics.
Bologna tourist attractions are centred around the town's main square, Piazza Maggiore, and the adjacent Piazza Nettuno (complete with fountain of Neptune). Dominating the piazza is the large and never-finished Basilica di San Petronio.
Like so many Italian cities, medieval Bologna was the scene of inter-clan rivalry, and two of the towers resulting from the competition between the town's families are now famous tourist sights.
The Due Torri of Bologna are two leaning structures, built in 1119. The shorter, Torre Garisenda, was immortalised in Dante's Inferno. The taller tower is the Torre degli Asinelli, which is over 300ft tall, and which is open to the public. It leans about 3ft, and if you're not feeling too giddy, the views are worth the climb.
Bologna's principal art gallery is the Pinacoteca Nazionale, containing works by local artists and others, including Guido Reni, Raphael, Giotto, Titian and Perugino.
For fairytale experience in Italy, head to the hilltop Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca. This 300-year-old basilica rises out of the forest like Cosette’s castle on a cloud.
If you’re after a physical challenge, you could skip the train and walk up the world’s longest portico. The 3.5km, salmon-colored Portico di San Luca stretches continuously from the Porta Saragozza to the sanctuary. Much of the walking route is uphill, with steep climbs for the last kilometer, so bring a water bottle and comfortable shoes.
After exploring the basilica’s gardens, balconies, and interior, head to the small ticket counter near the door. 5 euros (free with the PLUS card) gives you access to the San Luca Sky Experience, a rooftop platform with insane panoramic views over Bologna and the surrounding countryside. You can even see the rolling hills of Tuscany from up here!
The Quadrilatero is the beating heart of Bologna’s food culture. It’s been a marketplace since the Middle Ages, with narrow alleys brimming with shops and stalls selling fresh produce, meats, cheeses, pasta, and other artisan goods. Even if you don’t plan to eat or shop, a morning stroll through the Quadrilatero is still one of the best things to do in Bologna. The glass storefronts are a visual delight, offering glimpses of curing hams and yellow tortellini, and smells of sharp cheese and soft flowers.
Also known as the Bologna Cathedral, the Metropolitan Cathedral of Saint Peter is nearly 1,000 years old. While the exterior looks fairly plain, the interior is jaw-droppingly beautiful, with towering arches and columns of white stone. However, the impressive structure you see today is quite different from its original form. The cathedral was renovated extensively throughout the 17th and 18th centuries, though the massive bell tower was left unchanged. The Bologna Cathedral is by far one of the best free Bologna attractions. But if you’re open to spending a bit of money, you can pay 5 euros to climb the bell tower on Saturday afternoons!
The Tower of Asinelli and the Garisenda Tower are relics of Bologna’s wealthy past. They stand (and lean) at the heart of the city, along the intersection of Via San Vitale and Strada Maggiore. If you did your Bologna sightseeing during the 1300s, you’d see well over 100 towers reaching towards the sky. Historians believe rich families built them to defend their properties. Today, over a dozen remain standing, though Asinelli and Garisenda are the most well-known. Climbing the 97-meter Asinelli Tower is one of the most popular things to do in Bologna, despite the staggering 498 steps. Luckily, there are numerous spaces to stop and rest along the journey to the amazing view from the top.
Admission costs 5 euros and requires an advanced reservation online or at the Bologna Welcome office.
Did you know that you can find a slice of Venice in Bologna? Head to the section of Via Piella between Via Bertiera and Via Augusto Righi, and you’ll see what I mean. On one side of the street, you’ll find a lovely canal view lined with classic Italian shutters. And on the other side, there’s… a wall. But upon further inspection, you’ll find a small, square cutout hiding a second canal view. This secret window–the Finestrella–is one of my favorite Bologna sightseeing spots. Sometimes the Finestrella is shut, so keep your eyes peeled for the handle sticking out from the wall.
In addition to the famous Portico di San Luca, Bologna’s city center boasts over 35km of porticoes. These covered walkways have been a part of the city’s design since medieval times, earning them a spot on the UNESCO World Heritage list. From the distressed, dark yellow Portico della Morte, to the beautiful blue and gold stretch along Via Farini, Bologna’s porticoes are closer to art than architecture. They’re especially lovely near sunrise and sunset, when the columns’ striking shadows cut across the ground.
The vast Basilica di San Petronio dominates the south side of the Piazza Maggiore. Dedicated to Bologna’s patron Saint Petronius, it’s the most important church in the city and one of the largest in Europe. Looking at the facade–half elaborate red and white carvings, and half plain brick–you might think it was unfinished. And that’s because it is! During construction in the 1500s, the money intended for the facade was diverted to the Archiginnasio, part of the University of Bologna’s campus.
Once inside, you’ll find a number of unique features, from the massive sun dial to the nearly two dozen small chapels containing art and artifacts. But be advised: you’ll miss out on the interior if you don’t follow the dress code. Shoulders must be covered for everyone, and women’s shorts/pants/skirts must reach the knees (apparently men can get away with shorts that fall above the knee).
Before heading to the next Bologna attraction, there’s one more thing to do at the Basilica di San Petronio: visit the terrace for a panoramic view over Bologna! Near the rear exit off of Piazza Galvani, you’ll find a scaffolding lift that takes you to the 54-meter-high platform. Tickets cost 3 euros (free with the Bologna Welcome PLUS card). Note that the terrace doesn’t open until 10am and may be closed due to cold/bad weather. Admission to the Basilica is free, but if you want to take photos, you’ll need to buy a 2 euro pass.
Just a block west of the Santa Maria Della Vita, you’ll find the bustling heart of Bologna: Piazza Maggiore. This lovely Italian square is surrounded on all sides by porticos, palazzos, and churches.
The series of arches forming Palazzo dei Banchi’s facade run along the Piazza’s eastern side, while the northern arches belong to the Palazzo del Podesta. To the west lies Palazzo d’Accursio’s castle-like walls and charming clock tower. And rising above all on the southern edge is the impressive Basilica di San Petronio.
Branching off the north side of Piazza Maggiore, the Piazza del Nettuno is a favorite hangout spot for locals and visitors alike. Named after the grand Fountain of Neptune that sits in the center, the piazza boasts an eye-catching geometric patterned floor. In addition to the Fountain of Neptune, you’ll also find the Palazzo Re Enzo and Biblioteca Salaborsa, which houses an archaeological museum in the basement.
Incredible local pizza Zapap Pratello. Pasta and desserts in Trattoria da Me. Bar converted from 17thC chapel Le Stanze.
The best anti-pasti La Prosciutteria – Bologna.
Desserts
Get cannoli in Café Pastry Gamberini or Nonna Vincenza.
Gelato stops. Cremeria D’Azeglio their signature flavor is akin to a rich, chocolate mousse.
Located on Via Castiglione, La Sorbetteria Castiglione has dozens of toppings and flavors. Cremeria Santo Stefano good seasonal offerings.
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