For (solo) budget backpackers who travel slow, authentic, adventurously. Destinations, itineraries, hostels recs, surf breaks, how to move around, safety & budgeting tips: welcome to the one and only Sri Lanka guide you'll need to plan your trip to this tropical gem! 

What you'll find:
1. Introduction 

2. Basic SL tips
- money
- language
- food
- visa
- safety
- moving around

3. Itineraries (2, 3, 4+ weeks)

4. Destinations
- Colombo
- Sigiriya
- Kandy
- Nuwara Eliya
- Ella
- Yala National Park
- Southern coast (Ahangama, Mirissa, Unawatuna, Midigama and more)


Yala National Park Sri Lanka, කතරගම, Sri Lanka

Sigiriya, Sri Lanka

Galle, Sri Lanka

Mirissa, Sri Lanka

Nuwara Eliya, Sri Lanka

Ella, Sri Lanka

Arugam bay, Sri Lanka

Hiriketiya Beach, Sri Lanka

Weligama, Sri Lanka

Midigama Beach, Sri Lanka

Unawatuna, Sri Lanka

Colombo, Sri Lanka

Udawalawe National Park, Sri Lanka

Ahangama, Sri Lanka

Kandy, Sri Lanka

Sri Lanka

Backpacking Sri Lanka: the Ultimate guide

As of November 2024, all EU, UK and USA citizens can enter Sri Lanka on a 30-day tourist visa if they have six months of validity left on their passport. Apply for the e-visa on the official immigration website (link below) a few days before your flight. You'll receive the confirmation via email and you'll show it at the immigration counter at Bandaranaike International Airport in Colombo, which is virtually the only landing place on the island.  I recommend always double-checking for updated travel information and requirements prior to your departure. 

The wildest option for moving around is definitely public buses. I've traveled by chicken bus all throughout Latin America, but these guys in Sri Lanka, they're on a whole other level. It's like someone is threatening to annihilate their whole family unless they make it to the next stop in 23 seconds. They drive fast, they pass everyone whenever they want, just because they honk; they barely slow down for people to get on and off and the inside temperature can become unbearably hot. Despite all of this, they're honestly such a fun experience, once you accept your fate and let the crazy driver do his thing. Since time schedules and stops are hard to figure out, refer to your host or hostel and ask for directions. They'll show you where the closest bus stop is and tell you an approximate frequency of departure ("every half an hour!"). Sometimes buses have numbers or names of the destination hanging in the front, but if you want to make sure you're getting on the right one just say the name of your destination to the driver or to the other passengers at the stop. The ride will cost you only a few dollars; hand fan and cold water clearly not included, but much needed for longer drives.

The most flexible option is to rent a scooter. I found it pretty easy to drive in Sri Lanka, once you figure out the honking code and to leave room for the speedy buses to overtake you. Scooters are cheap, super convenient and the road conditions are more than decent. Now, please be responsible and only go for it if you know how to drive and traffic doesn't scare you. Also don't be the obnoxious tourist who drunk drives with no helmet and two people in the back after a beach rave. I didn't think you were gonna do it but still, worth mentioning.

The currency in Sri Lanka is the Rupiee and the exchange rate is around 1EUR to 300LKR, or 1USD to 290LKR. As in most Asian countries, cash is king: make sure you always have some on you as you'll need it to pay for food, transportation and activities. I usually always bring some US dollars with me to keep in case of emergency, for example if you get stranded somewhere with no working ATMs and no available card payment. I'd recommend withdrawing with your card as soon as you land (make sure you'll warn your bank beforehand, to avoid them blocking it at the most inconvenient time) and to never carry more than the equivalent of 30 bucks on you. 

Sinhala is the most spoken language in Sri Lanka, followed by Tamil. The alphabet, called Sinhala script, is made of intricate, flower-like designs that are obviously unintelligible for us foreigners. One of the things that most surprised me about SL is how easy it is to communicate in English with the locals: even in remote towns or street food stands, it will be possible to have a basic conversation with just about everyone. While this is obviously very convenient for us visitors, I still highly encourage you to learn your please and thank yous, because they'll allow a deeper connection and a friendlier one too. Check out a mini dictionary here:

Bad news for those of you who can't handle spice... because that's basically the pillar of Ceylonese cuisine. As you might know by now I'm a big fan of street food and local restaurants, which in Sri Lanka offer fried rice and noodles, curries, roti bread, kottu and various deep-fried snacks like egg rolls. Meat and fish are very common but there's always more than one vegetarian option for my fellow veggie travelers. As for hygienic conditions, SL is much cleaner than other countries like India, and I never had issues with the food; however, I recommend always being cautious in your choice of food spot, and looking out for red flags such as uncooked meat, flies, and food that's not been prepared at the order. Tap water is not safe to drink.

Welcome to the one and only travel guide you'll ever need as a backpacker! Thrilled to have you here. My name is Margherita, Mima for short, and I'm a 27yo psychologist and travel addict from Italy. I've spent 6 weeks in Sri Lanka in January 2024 and I'm so ready to share with you everything I've seen, eaten, discovered, and loved about this stunning country. 

Sri Lanka had been on my bucket list for so long, and finally last year I booked my one way flight (our generation doesn't like commitment, right?) and took off on Christmas day right after the big Italian lunch with my family. I didn't know much about the country, but I knew that it's my nanny's homeland: her name is Mary and she took care of me and my brother from the cradle all the way to our teenage years. She would make us the best fried rice our infant tastebuds had ever known, as well as a mysterious fried eggplant salad (the mystery was: how on Earth is it so delicious?). She told us tales of jungle, fresh coconuts and elephants; for my birthday one year, she gifted me stunning gold earrings with tiny sapphires encrusted, that she took with her from her yearly trip to her island; and so I knew from a very early age, and long before I even got my ears pierced: I needed to go and see this paradise for myself. 

Hopefully my words and images (some of the photos you'll see are taken by me with my good ol' Nikon) will manage to guide you and inspire you before and during your trip. Let's go!

On a scale from one to ten, one being very difficult to navigate as a solo (female) traveler (like Cuba) and ten being a walk in the park (all of Europe really), I'd rate Sri Lanka a solid 7.5. Here is all you need to know before you take off:

My average budget for Sri Lanka was ridiculously low (maybe $15/day) because I volunteered in a surf hostel for three weeks and in a safari camp for a week, in exchange for free accommodation and meals (more on that later); during those weeks I wasn't volunteering I still spent very little with an average of $30/day all inclusive. An average street food meal won't set you back more than a couple dollars, and fresh coconuts straight from the palm tree are 50 cents. Are you ready to leave yet??

The most important vocabulary to know during your trip in Sri Lanka

Safety is surely a priority for those of us who travel solo, and rightfully so. What most assisted me on my travels is that sort of sixth sense for danger and sketchy situations, a weapon that you can only develop with time, experience, and frankly some trial and error. The reason why I'm mentioning this is: I was perfectly safe during my whole six weeks on the island, never had an issue, but I will be honest and say that I've heard stories from fellow female backpackers that made me question if my sixth sense had saved me, or if I'd just been lucky. The stories I heard came from girls who stayed in really remote guesthouses in the middle of nowhere, because something didn't work out during their travel day and they had to make an unplanned stop somewhere for the night, and from girls who were harassed in nightclubs. 

To wrap up this unpleasant but necessary safety talk, the main takeaway is to always be aware of your surroundings, trusting your instinct, listen to other backpackers and avoid behaviours that could make you a target for the ill-intentioned. If you follow this advice you will be able to enjoy this corner of heaven with no setbacks to spoil your fun. Also: the northern part of the island is sketchy, so I  won't take you there in this guide.

- Don’t entertain conversations with random men who approach you; the more you share, the more they ask. Just shut it down by wearing earphones, by saying something in your native language, or by walking away. 

- If they don’t take the hint and keep insisting, lie! Lie about where you’re staying (just downtown), about being alone (I’m here with my friends or boyfriend), about it being your first time visiting (oh I’ve been here twice already). 

- Share your location with someone from back home, and make the people you’re with aware of your plans. 

- Cover your drink, don’t leave it unattended, don’t drink or smoke or take anything from strangers or even from people you “know”. 

- Ask for help! If you feel like you’re in danger, just approach someone around you. 99% of people are willing to help and protect you if needed. 

- Volunteer: it’s a different type of experience in a more protected environment; platforms like WorldPackers have strict host policies and include insurance for all volunteers. 

- Trust your gut: if it feels wrong, it is. 

- Be extra careful at night… find out if taxis are safe, try to make it back home with friends, don’t drink past your limit.

Now that I think about it, moving around in Sri Lanka is actually super fun. There's different options depending on budget and distance. 

The cutest option is Tuktuks: red, green, yellow bees on wheels buzzing around, with Hindu and Buddhist icons as decor (and for good luck, which you might actually need); they fit two to three people in the back - or up to five on a wild nightout; they're extra cheap and can be found pretty much everywhere. An absolute must have is the app PickMe, which is sort of like a tuktuk Uber and will allow you to book a ride easily on your phone. PickMe's also usually have the lowest fee. If you're just flagging one down in the street, you MUST agree on a price before taking off, and be ready for some good old haggling: the first price you'll get will be ridiculously high (for SL standards obviously). Negotiating is part of the game and drivers and shop assistants will almost be offended if youu don't partake. Once you agree, sit back, try your best to relax and enjoy the loud, chaotic ride. Some people actually rent a tuktuk and drive themselves around the island; while I understand how cool that sounds, every single person I spoke to who did this encountered some sort of issue, minor or major, so I'd advise you against.

Last but not least, the most scenic way to move: trains. Despite being slow and hot as hell, the views and overall experience is worth it, no question. Picture a vintage maroon train, leather seats, windows down, cruising amidst tea plantations and cloud forests. Vendors walk up and down the wagons with homemade snacks, as journeys tend to last many hours. The most popular route of them all will take you from Ella to Kandy, allowing you to enjoy jaw-dropping views from your seat. Book online a few days in advance to make sure you'll find seats. Ceylonese trains usually have 3 classes; first class is the only one where you can actually reserve your own seat and the only one with AC; depending on the level of comfort you're looking for, second class will also work: you might have to stand up for parts of the journey, but you'll be surrounded by locals only and you can even swing your feet outside inbetween two wagons. Third class might be a bit too extreme in terms of crowding and not much cheaper than second class. On my very first day in Sri Lanka, jetlagged and with low blood pressure due to the early time in my body clock, I was stuck in third class, standing like sardines for half an hour (the train just wouldn't leave) and passed out. LOL! But I lived to tell the tale and to enjoy the rest of the journey - and all the ones after.

Despite being a relatively small country, Sri Lanka has different seasons depending on the area. For the destinations included in this guide, which are the most interesting for us backpackers in my humble opinion, the best and driest season to visit is from November to March. As I mentioned, I flew out on Christmas Day and went straight to the Southern Coast for my first volunteering experience; despite it being late December, we still got daily rain at 6 pm for a couple of hours. Locals said it had never happened before, but they noticed the rainy season dragging out a bit longer each year. It didn't really bother me though, because the rain only came after dark; but if you can choose, you could book your trip from January onwards. If what you're after is mainly the surf, however, you'll want to travel during summer, as that's when the swell really picks up.

I wouldn't recommend spending less than 3 weeks in SL; but here is what I would do if I had 2, 3 and 4 weeks on Ceylon:

Colombo

Pettah Market

Colombo Fort Station

Galle Face Beach

One Galle Face Mall

Colombo National Museum

The Old Town Hall Building

Kathiresan Pillayar kovil | கதிரேசன் பிள்ளையார் கோயில்

Ceylon StayZ

C1 Colombo Fort

Sigiriya

Sigiriya Lion Rock

Pidurangala Rock

Tree House hostel sigiriya

Dambulla Royal Cave Temple and Golden Temple

Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya

Kandy

Pinnawala

Sithru Home Stay

Near The Canal Homstay, Sigiriya – Prenota al Miglior Prezzo Garantito! 97 recensioni e 45 foto ti aspettano su Booking.com.

Backpacking Sri Lanka: the Ultimate guide

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