Lovecraftian Providence
Lovecraftian Providence
Miguel Fliguer
Howard Phillips Lovecraft (1890-1937) was an American writer of science-fiction and cosmic horror, best known for creating the popular Cthulhu Mythos. As we stroll through the streets of his beloved Providence, we'll explore the places that shaped his visions and dreams. It features photos and information from my two HPL-inspired trips to Providence -and a few items from different sources, with attribution where possible.
Most of the suggested spots are within walking distance of each other and can be covered on foot in one day. A few ones (eg. the Observatory and the Swan Point cemetery) require transportation.
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HP Lovecraft Plaque
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On the grounds of the John Hay Library on Prospect St. not far from the Van Wickle gates of Brown University, there stands this small, poignant plaque dedicated to Lovecraft, dedicated in 1990. It features an excerpt from "Background", a sonnet from his "Fungi From Yuggoth" cycle, and a true love letter to the city of Providence. A beautiful photo spot.
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Van Wickle Gates
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Built in 1901. The brick columns feature the seals of the State of Rhode Island and the City of Providence. In Brown's tradition, they open only twice a year, once to let new students in, and another to let graduates out. One of Lovecraft's best-known photos shows him seated on the brick bench by the gates, now a fan-favorite photo spot.
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John Hay Library
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Named after Abraham Lincoln's secretary, a Brown graduate and benefactor. It houses the largest collection of Lovecraft's manuscripts, including the famous drawing of Cthulhu gifted to his friend Robert H. Barlow; rough street maps of Arkham and Innsmouth; and a remarkable jumble of notes and creature sketches for "At The Mountains Of Madness", written all over a mail envelope.
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The Providence Athenaeum
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Beautiful, cozy library frequented by Lovecraft throughout his life. His magnificent bronze bust -made by Bryan Moore- now graces the main gallery (a great photo spot).
Explore the halls where Edgar Allan Poe unsuccessfully courted Sarah Whitman, and ask a librarian to see Poe's signed copy of 'American Review', where one of his poems had been published anonymously. Also, browse inside the beautiful index cabinets for your favorite author cards.
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Fleur-de-lys Studio
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The setting for artist Henry Wilcox's residence in Lovecraft's "The Call Of Cthulhu" (1926). Don't miss the eldritch yellow stuccoed bas-reliefs on the front. The building belongs to the Providence Art Club -two doors away- and it's open to visitors. Great photo spot.
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Providence Art Club
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Building from the late 1780s, a few steps from the Fleur-de-Lys House. One of Lovecraft's aunts had her paintings exhibited, and he attended art shows here throughout his life.
In 2019 a life-size bronze of Lovecraft was unveiled here, but was later removed, and as of today (2023) it's still waiting for a permanent, private home. Across the street, there's the statue of Edward Bannister, one of the club founders. Both magnificent sculptures were created by Providence artist Gage Prentiss.
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H.P. Lovecraft Memorial Square
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On the corner of Prospect and Angell St. Nice photo spot.
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H.P. Lovecraft House on Barnes St.
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Lovecraft's home between 1926 and 1933. Featured in "The Case of Charles Dexter Ward" as the residence of Dr. Marinus Bicknell Willett. Now subdivided into rental apartments, so please respect their privacy...
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Jenckes St.
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An exceedingly steep street, just three blocks going downhill from Prospect and ending in Benefit St. Not recommended to stroll along it uphill (trust me on this one...)
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Halsey House
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Rumored to be haunted in Lovecraft's day, this stately 11,000 sq. ft. mansion is the protagonist's residence in "The Case of Charles Dexter Ward", although with a different street number. It has now been subdivided into rental apartments and studios.
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Prospect Terrace
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One of Lovecraft's favorite places in Providence, with breathtaking views . In "The Case of Charles Dexter Ward", the protagonist' nanny used to take baby Charles in his carriage for strolls at this gorgeous spot, as HPL's mother did with him in real life.
The statue of Roger Williams (founder of Providence) houses his third and final resting place... the grave dust collected from a previous burial site. Perhaps Lovecraft had this in mind when he wrote about "Essential Saltes"...
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The Arcade - Lovecraft Arts & Sciences
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The oldest arcade in America (1828). The Arts & Sciences store on the first floor is an exceedingly cool shop, with lots of Lovecraftian stuff for all your eldritch needs.
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Hamilton House
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Described in Lovecraft's "The Shunned House" as a "sumptuous but hideous French-roofed mansion". Now functions as an important adult learning and community center.
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Samuel B. Mumford House
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This building was H.P. Lovecraft's final earthly residence, and the setting for Robert Blake's apartment in "The Haunter of the Dark". However, at the time (the mid-1930s), the house was located closer to the riverfront, at 66 College St., which gave Blake (and Lovecraft) a fascinating view of eerie Federal Hill through a spy-glass. Lovecraft based his description of Blake's room on his own.
It's a private residential building now. The whole building was moved in 1959 to its current location at 65 Prospect St. as part of Brown University's expansion. In its former place now stands the List Art Museum.
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454 Angell St - Lovecraft's Birthplace
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In this site once stood Lovecraft's birthplace and early childhood home, where he dwelled until 1904. Alas, the original house was torn down around 1961.
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School One
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Formerly the "Slater Avenue Grammar School", where Lovecraft attended intermittently between 1898 and 1902
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Butler Hospital - 345 Blackstone Blvd
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Psychiatric hospital, founded in 1844. Both Lovecraft's parents died here, his father (Winfield) in 1898, and his mother (Susan) in 1921. They now rest with their son at their family plot in the nearby Swan Point cemetery (see).
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Grave of HP Lovecraft
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Resting place of the Lovecraft family. The smaller, individual monument has the inscription "I Am Providence", the fitting title of S.T. Joshi's monumental HPL biography.
Maps coordinates within the Swan Point Cemetery: https://goo.gl/maps/UDYhyhWyr4Vy294n7
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Ladd Observatory
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From an early age, Lovecraft had a keen interest in astronomy, and through a family acquaintance, he was given free access to the Observatory premises. He wrote a newspaper column, and his observation notebooks are now preserved at Vilanova University.
The observatory was established in 1891 as part of Brown University. It is open for visitors on Tuesday evenings (consult first).
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St. John's Park / Federal Hill
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The setting for the horrifying events in Lovecraft's "The Haunter of the Dark". On what is now the park grounds once stood the St. John's Catholic Church imposing building, which inspired the fictitious "Church of the Starry Wisdom" from the story. It was torn down in 1992.
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First Baptist Church in America
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Consecrated in 1775, this was HPL's maternal church. In 1907, young Howard gave a lecture on astronomy here at the Boys' Club. And years later he took a friend to the building and mischievously attempted to play the novelty tune "Yes, We Have No Bananas" on the church organ...
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Rhode Island School of Design (RISD)
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In "The Call Of Cthulhu", Henry Wilcox is a student of sculpture here at the RISD, while living at the Fleur-de-Lys House two blocks away. The RISD Museum is one block away on North Main St. (check visiting hours)
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Cathedral of St. John
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Founded in 1723 (as King's Church), and renamed after the American independence. The current building is from the early 1800s. Both Poe and Lovecraft frequented the churchyard to stroll among the tombs at midnight. Perhaps they still do...
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Stephen Harris House
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"The Shunned House". In HPL's story, it is called the Babbitt House. Lovecraft's aunt Lilian lived there from 1919-1920.
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Dexter House
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In the 1930s this building was the Knowles Funeral Home, where the funerals of Lovecraft (1937) and his aunt Lillian took place. Currently an RISD student residence.
Photo via Artstor public collection library
https://library.artstor.org/public/SS7730737_7730737_9954922
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
Miguel Fliguer
Born in the sixties in Buenos Aires, Argentina. Had the chance to travel -for work and leisure- to most of Latin America, plus several places in the USA, Canada, and Europe. I love photography, cooking, and writing. Have a couple of self-published books and a few short stories featured in various anthologies. I'll be crafting guides for my favorite places in the world, so stay tuned.
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