It's a big island, there's lots to see and do for a Hawaii first timer. It has the most variety of landscapes, great hidden beaches, and a laid back vibe.

Hawaii, USA

Hawaii, the BIG Island, for first timers

Get settled in to your hotel. If you're staying up in Waikoloa, take a walk through the Petroglyphs. If in Kona, take a neighborhood stroll to get your bearings.

Today is all about exploring Hawaii's awesome beaches. Some secret, others less so, all serve up some of what makes the big island so great.

Depending on where you decide to stay, you may want to re-arrange these days to suit the distances and drive times. It is indeed a BIG island and the distances between areas is actually pretty significant. You'll likely want to stay near Waikoloa Beach, or Kailua-Kona. Waikoloa has the larger hotel chains and condos on golf courses. Kailua-Kona is more casual and has some great Airbnb deals close to the water. 

Head out early and grab some malasadas from the Hot Malasada Truck off the highway by Puako Beach Road. 

If you're feeling adventurous, take a drive north and visit the Waipi'o Valley (don't drive down the road) or take a visit to the Pololu Valley Lookout.  Both will provide spectacular views of the Kohala Forest.

If there is actually lava flowing, consider a helicopter ride or a night visit in the late day/evening to see the lava from a different perspective.

Feeling less adventurous, head to Hapuna Beach for a relaxing afternoon on the sand.

For dinner, there are lots of farm-to-table restaurants on the big island, and many are in the nicer hotels. Options include Manta, Canoe House, Merriman's, Brown's Beach House. For something more casual, Kona Brewing Company, Jackie Rey's Ohana, Foster's Kitchen.

I like traversing the island clockwise, heading up summit road between Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa. You can drive up and visit the Mouna Kea Observatory (I haven't) and then make your way down through Hilo. Stop for a bite to eat at one of the many casual spots like Pineapples Island, Kuhio Grille, Hilo Burger Joint. Hilo may be rainy, so bring a raincoat/umbrella. 

You can take a detour south through Pahoa and visit the hotsprings and black sand beaches on the coast at Kapoho Tide Pools. This part of the island feels very remote and "wild west." There's a pretty well known hippie enclave that gathers in the park for a drum circle and on Sunday afternoons. You can stay out on the lava flows at Kalapana in a tiny house if you want a little adventure and taste of the "off the grid" life.

Double back to HWY 11 and head toward Volcanoes National Park. Stop at the visitor center to check on lava conditions. 

There's a great hike toward the Kilauea Crater and the Devastation Trail actually walks you through the crater and near the lava tubes. It's a hot hike, so bring water and definitely sunscreen. There's a variety of overlooks and fun to see the impact of the volcano on the land, so check out the lava floes.

Take the long way back and follow HWY 11 around the south part of the island, stopping at fruit stands and the coffee farms south of Captain Cook (they have tours and free samples). 

Drive down to see the Captain Cook Monument before you make your way back to your place for dinner at one of the spots listed in day 1.

Once you're done exploring the west coast beaches, casual dinner options include Paul's Place, drive down to Bianelli's Pizza or Sam Choy's south of Kona; 

Magic Sands Beach Park: grab lunch at Magic's Beach Grill on the water

Kahalu'u Beach Park: great for snorkeling and beginner friendly

Kealakekua Bay/Manini Beach: a great place to go kayaking--rent a kayak if it's not too windy and head out.

Smaller beaches with good snorkeling and body boarding, often get crowded mid-day. Stop for an early morning coffee at Kona Mountain Coffee (and grab me a bag of beans!) or Green Flash coffee. 100% Kona is the way to start the day!

Papakolea Green Sand Beach: yes, green sand, need to get a 4x4 ride down to it--and it's a far drive. So start or end your day here.

Kahana Beach: if you didn't make it here day 1, it's worth a visit. Great bodyboarding.

Once you've had your fill of the water, head back and grab dinner in Waikoloa like Kamuela Provision Company, Roy's, or great Italian food at Pueo's Osteria in Waikoloa Village.

Waikoloa Beach: behind the Marriott, sometimes gets a little crowded.

For lunch, northern options include something at the Kings/Queen's Markets, Lava Lava Beach Club, if you're in Kailua/Kona, try Huggo's, Umeke's Fish Market, 808 Grindz or Pau Hana Poke.

These beaches are a little harder to find/navigate to, but are usually a little secluded and worth the visit.

Kiholo Bay: probably my favorite spot on the island in the early morning to go see turtles. Park your car off the highway at mile marker 82/83 and follow the Kiholo Trail. You'll probably see some goats. Follow it along to the beach and then stay beachfront (there is private property) and cross the lava to hang out closer to the Wainanalii pond. Keep an eye out for turtles resting on the peninsula. There is a stretch of beach to the south that you can walk to and a black sand beach.

Makalawena Beach--another one that is worth the trek. Make sure you rent a 4x4. The road down to the parking lot is sketchy and then you've got a 20-ish minute walk over a lava field, but then you're rewarded with a beautiful, often empty, beach with sand and clear water. You can stop at Mahai'ula beach, but it's worth it to keep going.

Mauna Kea Beach: big open beach near the resort, but you have to get there super early for parking.

Hot tip: rent a 4x4 or other vehicle with high clearance so you can access some of the more secret beaches on day 3.

Nearby, Da Fish House is great for fresh fish (if you stay in a condo) as is the shave ice spot across the street.

Mahukona Beach Park: a more advanced snorkel site brings warm water and a wide variety of fish, but a good swim against the current and 20ft deep water. 

Hawaii, the BIG Island, for first timers

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