Around the Amalfi Coast like a local | One week unforgettable itinerary trip

Around the Amalfi Coast like a local | One week unforgettable itinerary trip

MartiPolo | Explore like a local
This is everything you need to know to plan in detail a perfect 1 week trip to the stunning Amalfi Coast. I was born in Puglia and raised in Salerno, the first town of the Amalfi Coast; every time I go back home to my family and friends (at least 3 times per year for weeks!) I am still astonished by this picturesque encounter between natural beauty throughout the stretch of coastline, charm of vintage fisherman villages, and colorful architecture. I want to provide you with an unbiased and detailed 1 week itinerary trip guide written by a true local to discover one of most enchanting places in Italy, and ranked among the prettiest in the world (for sure in my heart!). You will be amazed by the crystal clear water, idyllic beauty, pastel colors perched little towns, terraced gardens of lemon trees, and delicious food (and limoncello!) Make sure to click on the 'Details' icon for each place pinned in the itinerary and on the map to read my personal notes on each place.
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Introduction

The Amalfi Coast is one of these places where your trip experience will depend a lot on how well you have planned the trip and the transportation to move around. It's a pretty common mistake to assume that taxis and Uber are fairly available throughout the coast, or that it's not too important to worry in advance about parking and traffic situations... Well it is!! There is only one main road on the coast (SS 163), and during peak season (mainly July and August) the traffic can be very heavy and the parking is extremely limited. Here some of the things to consider: 

- As in many other Italian cities, Uber is not available on the Amalfi Coast

- Taxis are extremely expensive anywhere on the coast, even only for few km/miles. They can cost between 50-150 Euro one way

- Buses are available, cheap, and there are many bus stops (even if at times not super visible when located just on the SS 163 road). However, in July and August some fares cannot accommodate all the demand, and you might end up in a situation where the bus is so full that is not letting more people in. Also, traffic can be bad

Unless you have the budget to hire a private driver taking you around the places for the whole trip, your best way to discover the coast is by having a mix and match of day trips by ferry/boat/bus starting from Salerno, the first city on the southern side of the Amalfi Coast and also the biggest city among the ones on the coast.

Salerno It’s very easy to reach from either Napoli (NAP) or Roma (FCO) airports, and it’s very well connected to the Amalfi Coast. For several reasons I don't recommend choosing Napoli or Sorrento over Salerno if the main goal is visiting the Amalfi Coast. Many people don't even realize until they get there that these two cities are actually located on another coast, the Sorrentina Coast.

📍 Why starting in Salerno and not Napoli or Sorrento?

- Salerno is closer than Napoli to the Amalfi Coast, and better to reach from the airport then Sorrento

- Salerno is a big city, entirely walkable and with less tourists than Sorrento and less chaos than Napoli

- Compared to Sorrento, Salerno has more activities to offer since it’s a bigger city. Compared to Napoli, it’s way easier to move around and safe

- In Salerno there are way more trains (high-speed and regional) compared to Sorrento 

- In Salerno you can find accommodations that are more affordable than Sorrento (and also cheaper than on the Amalfi Coast)

👉 About this 1 week itinerary trip...

This is an itinerary that can work for any budget, you can pick between options given in a day and decide to have a more luxury experience or not. 

If budget is not an issue, this itinerary still works great, but why not adding a private boat day to hop across the towns and beaches of the Amalfi coast?!

Even if you are not on a budget, I am always a bit hesitant in suggesting getting private driver transportation everywhere, just because I find the prices really excessive compared to the service offered. I would rather spend that money to experience a private boat experience.

If you have less than a week, you can still tailor this itinerary by cutting something that doesn't interest you much (for example, if you don't like a beach day, skip the beach hopping suggestion, or if you are not into history, skip Pompei, etc). Something I wouldn't skip is the hike of the path of Gods. It's a truly unique scenic hike; I would personally rather cut a day trip to Capri.

Day 1 - Arrival in Salerno. Brief exploration of the city. Overnight stay in Salerno

📝 Summary of Day 1 - Fly into Napoli or Roma airport and go to Salerno. Briefly visit the city, exploring at least the seafront promenade, the old town and the Duomo. Enjoy your first meal of the trip in one of the typical restaurants of the city. Stay overnight in Salerno.

Salerno
@martinamarano
Salerno is a charming city in the Campania region, perfectly located in between two stunning coasts (the famous Amalfi coast and the less known, but equally incredible, Cilento coast), which makes it a great and unique vacation spot. From Salerno, you can start a trip that has all you can possibly ask for: great city life, medieval villages to explore, beautiful sea water, variety of beaches, mountains, rivers, national parks, amazing food, warm people, and over 2000 years of history. Salerno is a city that can be easily explored on foot. You could tour the city itself in just a day or two. Tips for a possible itinerary of the city: - Start the city tour from the main street, Corso Vittorio Emanuele, all the way to the Villa Comunale, passing through the historical center and its must see spots (Duomo, San Pietro a Corte, Largo Campo, Rione Fornelle) - Make sure to explore the whole area both on the sea side (Lungomare and Piazza della Liberta’) and on the inland side (Via Mercanti and Via Roma) Where to book your stay: - Historical center. Perfect location, in the heart of the city. Be mindful that some lodgings are: i) located in old buildings, that can’t go under renovations due to local regulations preserving the historical sites; ii) don’t have lifts - Piazza San Francesco area. Around Piazza San Francesco and on the Carmine area. It might be slightly less expensive, and still very close to everyhting. It‘s around 10 minutes’ walk from the main street Corso Vittorio Emanuele - Corso Vittorio Emanuele: Anywhere near Corso Vittorio Emanuele is a great option, maybe pricey. I would personally avoid right by the train station, as it’s not uncommon to see some homeless people sleep there at night. Nothing to worry about, the city is extremely safe! But it’s always good to know - Lungomare area: The furthest I would book my stay is near the beach club La Conchiglia, about 10 minutes’ walk from downtown
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Depending on what time you get to Salerno, you might have only little time the first day to explore this beautiful city.

📌If it's still daylight, start your exploration from the Lungomare, the seafront promenade that runs along the entire city. To have a true local experience, start your walk from the square Piazza della Concordia, have a gelato on the way at the Nettuno bar. It's a must for every local, famous for the brioche filled with gelato, open during the day or nighttime.

Lungomare di Salerno
@martinamarano
The city soul of Salerno resides in two main spots: one among the cobblestone streets of the old town (Via Mercanti), and the other one on the Lungomare, the seafront promenade that runs along the entire city.
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📌 Stop for an aperitivo on the only rooftop bar of the city, the Embarcadero bar on the Lungomare, and continue your walk until Spiaggia Santa Teresa, or better known by locals as Salifornia.

Spiaggia di Santa Teresa
@martinamarano
Salifornia is how locals call the wooden platform by the Santa Teresa beach. It's a popular spot to hang out during the day, usually with a drink bought at the small bar kiosk right at the beach. I don't recommend going to the beach here for a swim, but only to relax and enjoy some sun like every local does on a sunny day.
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📌 Right next to Salifornia, you will find the newly built Piazza della Liberta’, considered the largest square by the sea in Europe. 

Piazza della Libertà
@martinamarano
The square was built only in recent years, with the goal of becoming the largest square by the sea in Europe. Currently the square mainly hosts residential buildings, but under the square there is a waterfront pathway with few bars and restaurants (just after Salifornia). There you will also see the Stazione Marittima, one of the ports from where ferry boats departs to Capri, Sorrento or Amalfi Coast. The architecture of this Stazione Marittima port is unique, designed by the famous Zaha Hadid.
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📌Right behind Piazza della Liberta’, there are the lovely municipal gardens of the city, known as Villa Comunale, an urban lung with a great variety of plants and trees.

📌Continue your walk around the narrow medieval streets in cobblestone of the historical center and feel the history of the city. Walk on Via dei Mercanti all the way until the end (the whole historical center goes from Piazza Portanova to Largo Campo square, the real heart of the city).

📌Don't miss passing by the main cathedral of the city "Duomo di San Matteo".

Duomo San Matteo
@martinamarano
The Duomo is a magnificent example of Arab-Norman architecture. It's right in the heart of the old town of Salerno. If it's open, check out the inside of the Duomo and its "Sepolcro" as it's simply marvelous, mostly in baroque style.
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📌Another spot not to be missed in the old town is the church of San Pietro a Corte, very pretty inside and outside.

San Pietro a Corte - Ipogeo - Cappella Palatina
@martinamarano
The Monumental Complex of San Pietro a Corte is the most important Longobard construction in Salerno, and it's also the only example of Longobard palace building complex architecture in Europe. It was built by the duke of Benevento, Arechi II in 774 AD when he moved his residence to Salerno, where he built a magnificent palatium. If you are in the historical center of the city, pay a quick visit to this church/palace complex, even just from the outside. It's located in the heart of the historical center.
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If you have time left only for a quick dinner and walk, don't miss having a nice glass of wine at the Domo wine bar by the Duomo cathedral before enjoying a local dinner at a typical restaurant with cuisine from the Campania region. Or you can also start off your trip with a delicious Italian pizza (keep in mind that on the Amalfi Coast there aren’t many great pizzeria [pizza restaurants], and the dishes are more seafood oriented). 

I recommend the following places:

🍕 Pizza

🌀Pizza at the historical pizza place downtown Trianon

🌀Another great pizza is at L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. It’s the same owner of the famous location in Napoli where Julia Roberts eat a pizza in the movie Eat, Pray, Love. It’s worth the hype. Same family, same recipe, less wait time than Napoli

🌀Have a small pizza to go at Sabatino or Charlotte: these two small take-out places are like a hole in the wall, but have mouthwatering pizza squares, calzone and crocche'

🍽️ Restaurants

🌀 Osteria dei Canali, where food is exceptional and authentic from the Cilento coast, and menus are still handwritten on a note book. 

Osteria Canali
@martinamarano
The restaurant is located in the historical center, by San Pietro church and Largo Campo square. The menu changes a lot depending on the seasonality of ingredients, but I recommend trying as many items as you can; it's rare to find a restaurant with such a great authentic cuisine from the Cilento Coast and old recipes handed down through tradition. Usually it's best to call to have a table reserved given the limited seating options.
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🌀 Cicirinella (also called Maialino Rosso, next door and same owner), famous for pasta scarpariello. It's behind the Duomo of Salerno.

🌀 Trattoria da Sasa', not fancy, but considered in our tradition the best seafood restaurant in town, And still cheap. It's in a narrow street of the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, in the heart of downtown.

🍝 Eat like a local

These are the food items typical from Salerno:

- Buffalo mozzarella, Salerno is famous for having the best quality worldwide

- Pasta scarpariello, pasta with fresh tomato sauce and a lot of parmesan cheese made it creamy

- Pasta mussels and beans

- Parmigiana (note that in Italy we don't have chicken parmigiana but only eggplant parmigiana)

- Cuoppo: it’s fried street food, with either seafood or "crocche’"        (small potato croquette), pizza "montanara" (fried small pizzas with tomatoes and grated cheese), "alghe fritte" (fried algi)

- Seafood such as cod ("baccala'") or anchovies and tuna from the town of Cetara

✈️ How to get to Salerno from the airport

1. The closest airport is Napoli Capodichino (NAP), about 50 min drive from Salerno. You can get to Salerno by:

- Taking a direct bus from the airport (info are available on the Unico Campania app or on the Busitalia Campania website)

- Taking a shuttle to the train station downtown of Napoli and take a train (regional or high-speed train) to Salerno from there. The train station (Napoli Centrale station) is only 15 min drive away from the airport. A taxi from the airport to the station will cost around 10/15 euro, or the shuttle bus Alibus is only 5 euro and usually runs every 15 minutes from 5.30 am till midnight. The Alibus tickets can be bought directly at the airport from an automatic machine located right at the arrivals lounge.

2. Alternatively, fly into Roma Fiumicino (FCO). Take the high-speed train (Leonardo express) from the airport to the Roma Termini train station, from where trains (regional and high-speed) depart to Salerno (either Trenitalia or Italo). It will take about 2.5 hours. The Leonardo express train tickets are available to purchase directly at the train station inside the airport (or online on the Trenitalia website). I don’t recommend flying into Roma Ciampino as it’s not as well connected as Fiumicino.

👉 PRO tip from a local

If you don’t book the train in advance, the train ride costs up to 45/50 USD per person from Roma Termini train station or up to 20 USD from Napoli Centrale train station. You can book your ride in advance and save some money, but make sure to choose the flexible ticket options in case your flight schedule changes. You will be able to change easily your train ticket through the train operator apps.

[Italo is a private railway company providing only high-speed trains service]

[Trenitalia is the national railway company, with regional trains, intercity trains, and high-speed trains called "Frecce" - Frecciarossa, Frecciargento and Frecciabianca].

Day 2 - Amalfi, Atrani & Ravello. Overnight stay in Amalfi

📝 Summary of Day 2 - From Salerno, take a 30 min ferry to Amalfi. Spend one or two hour in Amalfi making sure to check out the beautiful cathedral. Leave few hours during day light to take a 20 min bus to Ravello, and visit Villa Cimbrone or Villa Rufolo. Hike back downhill for an hour to Amalfi. Have dinner in the little town of Atrani, 15 min walk from Amalfi. Stay overnight in Amalfi. 

Amalfi
@martinamarano
Amalfi is the main city of the picturesque Amalfi Coast. The town is famous for the beautiful architecture (see the charming architecture of the Duomo Sant'Andrea, the main cathedral of the town), the Amalfi Paper Museum housed in an old paper mill dating back to the 13th century (where you can experience the ancient techniques of paper production), and the several artisanal shops offering ceramic and lemon-based delicacies. Last but not least, Amalfi has become famous for creating the Amalfitani Tables in the 11th century, one of the first codifications of maritime law, which regulated the relations between shipmaster and shipmate, and between sailors and merchants in the Mediterranean sea. 🏦 Where to stay in Amalfi In general, it’s difficult to give suggestions on specific accommodations where to stay as the choice is very personal and highly dependent on a budget. Throughout the coast, prices are pretty high given the constantly increasing demand and limited offer. If you are not on a budget, you could opt for one of the exclusive hotels in Amalfi to have a memorable stay, but prices can get very high. Some famous options in a perfect location are: - Hotel Santa Caterina  - Hotel Marina Riviera  - Hotel Luna Convento (in a old monastery) - Villa Bossa - (it's a bit more distant from the center, so not ideal if you don’t want to spend money on a taxi or private transport. It’s 6 km away from Amalfi center, and 5 min drive, nothing too crazy but still something to consider) If you are looking to rent an exclusive villa, check out this link for luxury villa rentals around the world, where you can find plenty of amazing options on the Amalfi Coast https://www.villasofdistinction.com https://www.villasofdistinction.com There are few cheaper options available in Amalfi, mostly on Airbnb and not Booking, but they are still pretty expensive in absolute terms (I don't think you can find anything cheaper than 150 USD per night). Here some options: - Il Gelsomino Amalfi, nothing luxury, but it's clean and in a great location. It also includes Italian breakfast - Albergo Sant'Andrea, also in a great location, and more expensive than Il Gelsomino above - Hotel a Amalfi ID 3309, great view from the breakfast area and great location
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📌 After a nice breakfast in Salerno with espresso coffee and cornetto (the Italian version of the croissant), take a early morning ferry to Amalfi. It takes only 35 minutes to get right in the heart of Amalfi.

🛳️ TAKING A FERRY

The ferries heading from Salerno to the coasts (Amalfi, Cilento, Sorrento coasts) leave from 3 ports, all located on different spots of the Lungomare

1. Molo Manfredi and Stazione Marittima harbors, right next to each other (sometimes online they are shown as one harbor)

2. Molo Concordia or also called Porto Masuccio Salernitano

📌 In Amalfi, wander around the town, check-out any of the cute little stores selling handmade objects and pottery with colorful lemon prints, try any lemon-based delicacy. Keep in mind that as most of the towns on the coast, it doesn't take more than 30 minutes to entirely walk around the whole town. Admire the charming architecture of the Duomo Sant'Andrea, the main cathedral of the town.

Duomo di Amalfi
@martinamarano
The Duomo Sant' Andrea is the main cathedral of the town. It clearly witnesses the glory and prestige of the 11th century maritime superpower of Amalfi. In 839 AD Amalfi became an autonomous town, appointed as one of the four Repubblica Marinara (Maritime Republic) of Italy, in constant rivalry with the other 3 (Venezia, Genova, and Pisa). The intense maritime traffic brought rich merchants, prestige, and so much wealth that Amalfi coined its own gold currency (the tarì). Fun fact: few people know that Amalfi is also famous for the invention of the compass and the code of maritime laws (Tabula Amalfitana), used for centuries as international mercantile code.
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👉 PRO tip from a local

Don't miss in Amalfi the famous delicious Delizia al Limone at the pastry place Pansa. It's right by the Duomo of Amalfi.

📌 After having spent some time in Amalfi, take a 20 min bus to head to Ravello. It's time to visit one of my favorite spots on the Amalfi Coast, that offers incredible views being the highest view point of the coast. 

Ravello
@martinamarano
Ravello has the highest view point of the Amalfi Coast. Its unbeatable elegance conquers everyone. A must do is a visit to Villa Cimbrone, and the beautiful terrace downhill overlooking the coast (Terrazza dell’infinito) and/or a visit to Villa Rufolo.
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Ferries or boats cannot reach Ravello, but it’s only about 8 km from Amalfi. You can simply hop on a bus SITA SUD, it's the second stop of the bus Amalfi - Scala (the other stop before Ravello is called Castiglione).

Taxi is an option, but the fare is about 50 euro so it’s extremely expensive compared to the distance. For the way back, I would definitely hike from Ravello to Amalfi, it’s about one hour walk and all downhill - so not too hard and surely enjoyable!

👉 PRO tip from a local

Download the app Unico Campania upfront, create an account and setup a payment method. In this way you can buy the bus ticket easily online. This app works for all transportation in the Campania region (only trains are not included). 

📸In Ravello, a must do is a visit to Villa Cimbrone, and the beautiful terrace downhill overlooking the coast (Terrazza dell’infinito).

Villa Cimbrone Gardens
@martinamarano
The villa is a 5-star hotel, but the gardens are open to the public upon payment of a small entry fee. The gardens are divine and the views are dramatic.
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Another beautiful villa to check out in Ravello is Villa Rufolo and the views are equally gorgeous. Another beautiful view point of Ravello (and with no entry fee to pay) is Belvedere Principessa del Piemonte.

📌 Once in Amalfi, I wouldn’t miss the 15 min stroll to the near town Atrani, still very unspoiled compared to the rest of the towns on the coast, and known for being the tiniest town in Italy in terms of surface.

It’s incredible to see how many churches have been built in a town this small! One of the churches worth to visit is the church of Santa Maria Maddalena, located on a cliff overlooking the town and offering truly pretty views of the coast. The church displays a painting from one of the most important Renaissance painters of the South of Italy, Andrea Da Salerno.

Finally, check out La Piazzetta in Atrani and the striking views from the beach.

Atrani
@martinamarano
Very cute town on the Amalfi Coast, considered the tiniest town in Italy in terms of surface, yet with plenty of churches! One of the churches worth to visit is the church of Santa Maria Maddalena, located on a cliff overlooking the town and offering truly pretty views of the coast. The church displays a painting from one of the most important Renaissance painters of the South of Italy, Andrea Da Salerno. Also, check out La Piazzetta in Atrani and the striking views from the beach.
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🍽️ Restaurants

Keep in mind that the restaurant options throughout the Amalfi Coast are copious, but they are not all affordable or providing high quality food. Some restaurants with the best location are also the most expensive ones, and awarded with Michelin Star. Other times, having the best location has led restaurant owners to simply rely on that, and lower the quality of the food offered. Sometimes, great dining spots are located out of reach, and only a boat can take you there. It’s not always easy to navigate through the variety of options available.

Here a list of places where to have the best food experiences for all budgets in Amalfi, Atrani and Ravello:

Fine dining, great views, high budget

🌀Glicine in Amalfi (Michelin Star)

🌀Sensi in Amalfi (Michelin Star)

🌀Il Flauto di Pan in Ravello (Michelin Star)

🌀Rossellinis in Ravello (Michelin Star)

Great views, medium budget

🌀Le Arcate in Atrani

🌀Ristorante Bella Vista Sul Mare in Ravello

🌀Mimi in Ravello for pizza

Great views, medium-low budget (more casual spots)

🌀Lido Azzurro in Amalfi

Unique experiences by taxi boat

🌀Lido degli Artisti on the Duoglio beach, in Amalfi. The taxi boat starts from Amalfi port

🌀Ristorante Da Teresa on the Santa Croce beach in Amalfi. Taxi boat from the Il Pontile Il Faro of Amalfi

🍝 Eat like a local

- Limoncello, best if home-made

- Pastries with lemon cream, with lemons from the Amalfi Coast. Try delizia al limone, millefoglie, sfogliatella, cannoli crema limone. If you can, eat pastries made at the world-famous bakery 'Sal De Riso' located on the Amalfi Coast (in Minori)

Pasticceria Sal De Riso
@martinamarano
World-famous pastry shop, and one of the most successful of Italy. Dolce d’Amalfi and Ricotta e pere are two iconic pastries made at Sal De Riso confectionery. Dolce d’Amalfi represents all the color and scent of the Amalfi coast, with its shape remembering the sun, the scent and taste of the Sfusato lemon, typical of the Amalfi Coast; it is perfect for who, after visiting the Amalfi Coast, want to bring with them the sun of this land. Ricotta e pere (pears) cake is a tasty balance between an excellent ricotta from Tramonti, Giffoni hazelnuts and pears.
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- Pasta with seafood (like mussels), called pasta e cozze and pasta e vongole

- Seafood and fish such as cod (baccala’),  anchovies and tuna from Cetara

👉 PRO tip from a local

Before booking your stay or packing your luggage, check with the accommodation if you need to walk uphill or take any stairs to reach the lodging. In fact, most of the towns on the Amalfi Coast extend uphill and are perched on cliffs; it’s better to know upfront whether you will have to carry a heavy luggage up the stairs.

Day 3 - Hike the Path of the Gods and visit Positano. Overnight stay in Amalfi

📝 Summary of Day 3 - From Amalfi, early in the morning head to the Bomerano (Agerola) to hike the marvelous Path of the Gods. You can get there by bus (there won't be traffic on that route and early in the morning, or you can opt for a private tour with pickup included). After hiking the path, you will end up in Positano. Relax in Positano, have lunch, and stroll around the town and the main beach Spiaggia Grande, At night, take the 15 min ride by ferry back to Amalfi and stay overnight in Amalfi.

📌There are many places or experiences that I wouldn’t miss once on the Amalfi Coast.  Above all, hiking the famous Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei), a truly unique place in the world where the sea meets the mountains.

Path of the Gods
@martinamarano
The Path of the Gods is one of the most beautiful hike I have ever done in my life. The views of the mountains encountering the sea are truly stunning. Throughout the hike (about 6 km/4 miles) it’s impossible not to feel a deep and mystic connection with the sea and the mountains, and it becomes apparent why this path was called the path of the gods in the ancient myths.
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Throughout the hike it’s impossible not to feel a deep and mystic connection with the sea and the mountains, and it becomes apparent why this path was called the path of the gods in the ancient myths.

Overall, it’s an easy hike, unless you are very scared of heights. It's about 6 km/4 miles, and it's mostly flat.

If you don't have a private tour or transportation arranged, Amalfi is the best spot to start your experience. The hike starts from Piazza Paolo Capasso 7, in the town of Bomerano (Agerola), located outside of the coast and more in the inland. Bomerano is well connected with Amalfi via bus. It's only one bus to take. If you were to leave from anywhere else on the Amalfi Coast, you would likely need to get to Amalfi first and then take a bus from there. From Amalfi, you have two options to get to Bomerano:

🚌 1) Take a bus

SITA SUD number 5080 with direction Napoli, ride till the bus stop called Agerola – Bomerano. Note that there are two Agerola stops, make sure to get down at the one Agerola – Bomerano. In the morning the traffic is not bad, and the ride should take about 40 min. If you are one of these people scared of missing the bus stop, just get on the bus and tell the driver "Bomerano". They are used to have tourists afraid of missing their stop, so the driver will likely yell the name of the stop when getting there!

👉 PRO tip from a local

Download the app Unico Campania upfront, create an account and setup a payment method. In this way you can buy the bus ticket easily online. This app works for all transportation in the Campania region (only trains are not included). 

🚗2) Book a tour online

You could book it with pickup from your hotel. There are several options available online, there are some on Viators website that cost about 130 USD and include private transportation to the start of the path, guided hike till the end, and a ferry ticket from Positano (where the path ends) to Amalfi or Maiori. Even with a tour, you will still have time to relax in Positano for the whole afternoon till the time of the last ferry to Amalfi or Maiori. 

I would say that the main difference between hiking on your own or with a tour (apart from the considerable price difference!) it's the walking until the town of Positano. In fact, the hiking path ends in Nocelle and not right in the heart of Positano. From Nocelle, you need to walk all the way down 1700 steps, then walk 20 min to Positano on the main road (SS 163). I really enjoy the walk Nocelle - Positano, the views are incredibly beautiful, but it can be tiring for some people to walk more after the hike on the path of gods. With a tour, they will likely pick you up in Nocelle and drive you to Positano.

📌 Whether you have chosen to hike on your own or booked a tour, after the hike enjoy some time in Positano and visit this colorful gem of the coast.

Positano
@martinamarano
Undoubtedly the most famous and beautiful among the perched towns on the coast. The colorful winding streets are enchanting, the views from the pebble beach Marina Grande stunning. Similarly to the other towns on the Amalfi Coast, half day is enough to visit the town itself. Remember that it’s most popular town, so food and drinks can be expectedly pricey; I personally would rather spend the money in the famous hand made stylish Positano style sandals. Visit the church of Santa Maria Assunta, originally a 10th-century Benedictine Abbey, famous for its colorful mosaic dome iconic in every Positano picture.
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📌 Relax at the main beach Spiaggia di Positano Marina Grande.

Spiaggia di Positano Marina Grande
@martinamarano
Enjoy the stunning views from the famous beach Spiaggia di Marina Grande. It's the spot where to take the famous postcard picture of Positano.
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🍽️ Restaurants

Here a list of places where to have the best food experiences for all budgets in Positano:

Fine dining, great views, high budget

🌀Terrazza Cele’ in Positano

🌀Le Sirenuse, Positano

🌀Gabrisa in Positano

🌀Zass in Positano

🌀La Serra in Positano (Michelin Star)

🌀La Sponda in Positano

🌀Li Galli in Positano (Michelin Star)

Great views, medium budget

🌀Donna Rosa in Montepertuso (uphill Positano)

🌀La Tagliata in Montepertuso (uphill Positano)

🌀Bruno in Positano

Great views, medium-low budget (more casual spots)

🌀Il Grottino Azzurro in Positano

🌀Bagni da Ferdinando in Positano

🌀Casa e Bottega in Positano

Unique experiences by taxi boat

🌀Ristorante da Adolfo, in Positano. You can also take the long flight of stairs from the square where is the Hotel San Pietro. But the taxi boat service is a unique experience. Every 20 min from the Positano port

🌀Arienzo Beach Club, in Positano, reachable with a taxi boat from Positano

👉 PRO tip from a local

Download WhatsApp app on your phone while you are in Italy: its’ the preferred way for lots of businesses and tour operators to communicate & make reservations

Day 4 - Beach day and Furore. Overnight stay in Salerno

📝 Summary of Day 4 - Plan some time to explore some of the beautiful beaches of the Amalfi Coast. My recommendation is to book a tour from Amalfi: either do a kayak tour from Amalfi until the gorgeous fjord of Furore, or book a boat day from Amalfi to explore different beaches along the coast, some of them reachable only by water. At night, take the ferry back to Salerno and stay overnight in Salerno. 

🏖️ Everything you need to know about a beach day

There are four preliminary things to know if you want to opt for a beach vacation on the Amalfi Coast:

1. Prices of umbrella and sunbeds vary depending on how exclusive the beach club is; a 30 Euro charge per day for an umbrella and two sun beds is a very typical price there

2. The beaches with free access get crowded very quickly, so make sure to get there early in the morning

3. While a typical Italian beach day would go from 11 am till 7 / 8 pm, the shade comes early on the coast. The latest you will have sun exposure is around 5 pm

4. Some of the best beaches are secluded and in between caves, only reachable by boat

Here some of the finest beaches on the Amalfi Coast:

- Spiaggia del Cavallo Morto (or Cava Bellavia), one of the prettiest for sure. It’s reachable only by water

- Spiaggia Lama ‘a Secca, small but very cute. Best by boat

- Spiaggia di Conca dei Marini. It’s reachable from the main road SS 163, between Amalfi and Positano. The access through a path of 300 steps is where the Hotel Belvedere is. Some restaurants offers taxi water service from Amalfi

- Spiaggia di Sovrano, also known as Sgarrupo. It's easier to get there by boat, but some locals go down from the main road via a steep and rugged path

- Spiaggia dei Limoni, easier to reach by boat from Erchie

For more info on the beaches on the Amalfi Coast, I suggest checking out this website where they do a pretty good job in summarizing all the relevant info for the best beaches:

🛶 Booking a kayak tour

This is a great alternative to explore some secluded beaches, caves, and enjoy the views of the beautiful Amalfi Coast from the water without spending a fortune renting a boat.

Fiordo di Furore
@martinamarano
Don’t miss the unique natural beauty of Furore, a cleft in the rocky limestone cliff between turquoise waters, offering a breathtaking scenery. Furore means fury in Italian, and it might represents the vehemence of the stormy waves when crashing against the rocky fjord The rocky canyon is famous for its majestic beauty and for being one of the spot chosen for the high dive championship. The town of Furore is not really a town, but more a small village terraced across the cliff behind the fjord. It’s easily reachable with a private boat from Amalfi or Positano, or with a short bus ride with a SITA bus. The bus stop is right at the bridge of the fjord. If you go by car, your best option for parking is at the private parking of the restaurant La Locanda del Fiordo. To go downhill to the beach, there is a flight of stairs with 300 steps. You could also opt for a kayak tour hitting this spot, the most popular ones starting from Amalfi and Positano. Once at the fjord, you can relax at the small beach, or take the scenic hiking trail going uphill through the Furore Grand Hotel and the passeggiata dell’amore (meaning the love walk).
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I found one kayak tour starting from Amalfi that has a great route, paddling by Duoglio and Santa Croce beaches, the "Arc of Lovers" (a natural rock arch created millions of years ago by the erosion of the sea whose shape recalls two elephants in the act of kissing), Conca dei Marini, passing near the villa of Sophia Loren and the historic hotel “Il Saraceno”, the Santa Rosa Monastery (a former convent now converted into a luxury hotel, once home of the Dominican nuns). And finally also stopping in Furore and Runghetiello Grotto.

⛵ Renting a boat

Finding a private boat to rent is very easy anywhere on the Amalfi Coast, either online or by also just walking up to an harbor to find all the boat operators. If you are not based out on the coast, the largest number of alternatives is available from Salerno, from any of these ports:

- Molo Manfredi and Stazione Marittima harbors, right next to each other (sometimes online they are shown as one harbor)

- Molo Concordia or also called Porto Masuccio Salernitano

Instead of renting a private boat with or without a skipper, there are also other options mostly chosen by the locals:

- Taxi boat - One of the many options available to contact is Sea Sun Cetara, providing a taxi service from anywhere on the coast. Available to contact them through their website or using their Whatsapp number listed online

- Hopping on a small fisherman boat, mainly starting from the ports of less famous towns (for example, Marina di Vietri and Cetara). These are not official boat operators, but simply fishermen who offers a boat ride for few Euros. It’s likely that you need to ask around before finding one, but it is an option that locals use a lot in the summer

Also, don’t be surprised if you see a Barca Bar in the sea, a boat in the water trying to sell you coffee or wine/spirits. It’s very common!

👉 PRO tip from a local

While it is true that there are many boat options available to book online for a day trip, I recommend one option extremely convenient for the type of packages offered: a sailboat on Airbnb that can host up to 10 people. You can customize your experience as you like, use the sailboat for a day trip to sail around the Amalfi Coast or also use it as your accommodation for multiple nights instead of booking an overpriced hotel on the Amalfi Coats. Having an experience like this would definitely make your vacation memorable!

 📌 At night, take a ferry from Amalfi to Salerno to sleep there for the rest of your trip.

Day 5 - From Salerno, head to Raito for wine tasting and cooking class with a view. Explore Vietri sul Mare. Overnight stay in Salerno.

📝 Summary of Day 5 - To fully experience the Amalfi Coast and the south of Italy like a local, rent a moto-scooter/moped for a day and cruise around few towns nearby Salerno. With the moped, head to Raito for a wine tasting and/or a cooking class with stunning views, and on the way back stop in Vietri sul Mare to explore another cute town on the Amalfi Coast. Spend one more night in Salerno.

🛵 Renting a moto-scooter/moped

Renting a moto-scooter/moped for a day is a great way to experience the local culture and have a lot of fun. It's not very expensive - it won't cost more than 40/50 USD for a full day - and it's easy to drive.

For where to rent the mot-scooter/moped, I recommend to just browse online depending on the price and availability. I have personally used only one website and I could easily reserve my moped online. The location of the office (it’s actually an office within a parking garage) is not super central, but still walking distance from downtown (about 10 min walk from the Lungomare).

I don't recommend driving the moped for long distances on the Amalfi Coast unless you are a very good driver. From Salerno, the best spots to hit with a moto-scooter are Raito and Vietri Sul Mare, two small towns next to each other located at the beginning of the Amalfi Coast on the southern side, just 10/15 min away from Salerno. Not only they are close by Salerno, but they are really pretty and with very few tourists, which certainly increases the charm of the atmosphere.

📌After renting the scooter, head to Raito first. 

Raito
@martinamarano
Raito is derived from the latin ragitus and it means kissed by the sun, due to its high location that allows the sun to shine on it all day. Like many other towns on the Amalfi Coast, Raito is very tiny and perched on a cliff. The lack of tourists, the stairs throughout, and the ceramic tiles give this place real charm.
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In Raito, I wouldn't miss booking an experience at Vigne di Raito. It's a beautiful vineyard family owned with amazing views on the coast.

Le Vigne di Raito
@martinamarano
This vineyard offers some of the most beautiful views you can possibly ask for. Not only you can have a wine tasting experience with unique views like almost nowhere else in Italy, but the place offers also also pic-nic and cooking classes of Italian specialties including pizza. Booking a cooking class of classic Italian dishes it can be a great option for having a good meal, fun, and get to know better the culture as a local. That's why I always recommend it. One thing to note is that kids are not allowed in the vineyards for safety reasons. Also, you have to book in advance, and it's possible trough the website.
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👉 PRO tip from a local

Between Raito and Vietri sul Mare there is a tiny granita kiosk on the right side of SS 163 road (the side by the sea) called 'Da Gigino'. Having a lemon authentic granita here is a must. It's one of these placed that you would call a "hole in the wall" in the US. It doesn't have an official name on Google, neither a location on Google maps, but it simply doesn't need one. Every local would know where is it (only 2 min walk away from the pottery shop Ceramiche Sara).

📌 On the way back from Raito to Salerno, make another stop at Vietri Sul Mare, a small gem right at the beginning of the Amalfi Coast, mainly known for its hand-crafted colorful ceramic tiles sold in every artisanal shop of the town. There is an upper side (Vietri sul Mare) and a lower side by the sea (Marina di Vietri), walkable distance from each other.

Vietri sul Mare
@martinamarano
Vietri sul Mare is a small town mainly known for its hand-crafted colorful ceramic tiles sold in every artisanal shop of the town. It’s not part of the usual touristy itinerary recommended for first time visitors, but it has actually a lot to offer and it’s beloved by the locals. There is a vibrant upper side of the town (look for Corso Umberto) filled with artisanal ceramic shops and narrow streets decorated with colorful tiles. On the upper side, there is a beautiful viewpoint from the Villa Comunale, resembling the Villa Gaudi in Barcelona.  And then there is a lower side of the town by the sea called Marina di Vietri. By the seashore there are bars, restaurants, ice cream shops (the best gelato is at Eco del Mare) and also a very peaceful beach, less crowded than other beaches of the Amalfi Coast. Here, don’t miss getting a drink, a coffee or food at the bar/restaurant right on the beach called Risorgimento.
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Don’t miss the Villa Comunale for a beautiful viewpoint, resembling the Villa Gaudi in Barcelona. 

Villa Comunale Vietri sul Mare
@martinamarano
Don’t miss the Villa Comunale of Vietri sul Mare, located on the upper side of the town. It's a great viewpoint, and the colorful mosaic tiles resemble a lot the ones in the Villa Gaudi in Barcelona.
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📌At night, stay again in Salerno.

Day 6 - Day trip to Capri or Pompei from Salerno. Overnight stay in Salerno.

📝 Summary of Day 6 - There are plenty of day trips that you can take from Salerno. It wouldn't be possible to explore the whole area in a month! And by day 6 of your vacation, you have already done and seen a lot, and you probably just want to rest. But, if you are un insatiable traveler like me who can never take a break, then keep exploring!

If I have to to narrow down the the options, I would suggest taking a day trip to Pompei or Capri. They offer very different experiences, so pick the one that fits the best your personal preference - whether you love more history or experiencing the Italian "dolce vita".

📌Day trip option 1: Pompei by train

Pompei is an incredible historic site of ruins of an ancient roman city buried for centuries under ashes and volcanic debris after a volcano eruption (the Vesuvio volcano). The city of Pompei that emerged in the recent centuries became an extraordinary example of the ancient roman daily life. It’s a place unique in the world and worth to visit.

Scavi di Pompei
@martinamarano
Pompei is an incredible historic site of ruins of an ancient roman city buried for centuries under ashes and volcanic debris after a volcano eruption (the Vesuvio volcano). The city of Pompei that emerged in the recent centuries became an extraordinary example of the ancient roman daily life. It’s a place unique in the world and worth to visit.
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🚆 How to get there from Salerno

👉 PRO tip from a local

Don't skip buying an audio guide at the entrance or getting a private tour guide for the day. There are many tour guides at the entrance of the site. The archeological site does make it available a free app that you could download to read the history of the main spots as you walk through the site, but the Wi-Fi doesn't work well, and it makes it very difficult to browse in the app and look up information (at least that was the case last time I went there in 2023). That's why I recommend you rent a portable audio-guide at the entrance, or a tour guide.

The ruins are incredible and rich of history, and the site is very large, so I would highly recommend having a guide of any sort to get the best out if this visit.

📌Day trip option 2: Capri by ferry

Capri is certainly a great option for a day trip if you want to experience some iconic glamour, chic restaurants, without missing out on great blue water views and nice walks.

Capri
@martinamarano
Capri is one of the most upscale spots in Italy, with beautiful views, blue water like in the famous Grotta Blu and relaxing vibes. Capri is one of the most upscale spots in Italy, with beautiful views, blue water like in the famous Grotta Blu and relaxing vibes. I personally recommend going only for a day trip by ferry or boat considering the extremely high prices of the island. Also, the two main beaches of the island (Marina Grande and Marina Piccola) get very crowded and busy quickly: hence, I wouldn’t go to the island just for a beach vacation, but more for a day tour of the island, the cave, or a boat tour.
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When you arrive to the island, you will need to take a cable car to reach the heart of Capri: La Piazzetta di Capri.

👉 PRO tip from a local

As soon as you land in Capri at the harbor of Marina Grande, try to get out as fast as possible to be in the front of the line for buying the cable car tickets. The cable-car station is right in front of the ferry station, under a arch. It gets very crowded in the summer, and you don't want to do a long line under the sun!

Once in Capri, don’t miss:

- the famous ice cream at Buonocore (there will be a line outside, it's fast and the gelato is worth the hype)

- the views from Belvedere Cannone

- the views from the Giardini di Augusto.

If you decide to stay there overnight, go watch the the sunset at the Faro di Punta Carena in Anacapri. Staying overnight would be the only way to see the sunset, as usually the last ferry to Salerno leaves before sunset. I once watched the sunset from the ferry, and I loved it.

Also, check out this website to read about some pretty and less toursity walk itineraries in Capri:

⛴️ How to get there from Salerno

Day 7 - Visit the Graffiti area of Salerno and hike to the Arechi Castle before flying back home

📝 Summary of Day 7 - This is the last day of your unforgettable trip on the Amalfi Coast. Get ready to head to the airport and head back home. If you have some day time left, use it to finish the exploration of the beautiful city of Salerno and specifically two icon spots of the city: the graffiti area in the historical center and the Arechi castle, overlooking the city and the coast.

📌In Salerno, explore the graffiti art of the city in Rione Fornelle: it’s one of the poorest area of the city, yet trying to emerge and show some authentic charm through mural art. It goes from Vicolo San Trofimena 12 until Vicolo delle Fornelle, passing by Piazza Matteo D'Aiello.

Rione delle Fornelle.
@martinamarano
Salerno has a neighborhood (called "Rione Fornelle") completely decorated with graffiti art. It's located in the historical center, and it's one of the poorest area of the city, yet trying to emerge and show some authentic charm through mural art. It goes from Vicolo San Trofimena 12 until Vicolo delle Fornelle, passing by Piazza Matteo D'Aiello.
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Once you are in the graffiti area, have breakfast in one of the bars beloved by the locals: Bar Umberto, located in via Roma.

📌 Another landmark of the city of Salerno is the Arechi castle, constantly protecting the city from the top.

Arechi Castle
@martinamarano
The Longobard fort Arechi takes its name after the prince who built it. Overlooking the city, it represents one of the postcard of Salerno. Reachable by car or by walking on the Sentiero del principe hiking path. To find the starting point of the path, simply look on the phone map for Scale per il sentiero Arechi, which means Stairs to the Arechi castle. Or you could walk to the stairs from the old town of the city, taking the path from Via S. Maria Maddalena near the Duomo, all the way up until Montevergine Park. From there, cross the road Via Fra' Generoso and you will find the starting point of the hiking path. Even if you see a small gate closed, just push it to open. It's unlocked. The path goes through a pine forest and offers fantastic view points of the city and coastline. The fort Arechi is at the end of the path. The castle and terrace are open only during the day, and the entrance is not free; there is nothing really unique to visit inside. The views from outside the fort are just as stunning as the ones from the terrace of the castle.
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Conclusions

I hope you found my guide helpful! 

Don't forget to download the free Thatch App to get easier access from your phone, it's super convenient and user friendly and you can also save as many places as you want among the ones I mentioned to check out during your trip📱If you liked this itinerary trip, click on save and it will appear in your library of 'Saved' guides. And feel free to share with me your personal experience or any feedback on this guide, would love to hear from you.

Remember to subscribe to get notified when I publish a new guide or when I update one 📣

Do you still have any questions, concerns on your trip on the Amalfi Coast? Do you need more restaurant or nightlife tips on Amalfi Coast or Salerno? Do you need any other help travelling around Italy in general? 

Don't hesitate to send me an email to marti.polo@outlook.com

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
MartiPolo | Explore like a local
🌍Welcome to my travel shop where you can read travel guides from an actual local! I am Martina, originally from the south of Italy, but I have been lucky enough to become a true local in different places of the world. I was born in the region of Puglia in Italy, I was raised in Salerno (at the beginning of the Amalfi Coast), I studied in Milano, Berlin, Ahmedabad (India) and I worked in Bristol (UK) and Tampa (USA). Since I was super young, I travelled around the world anytime I could, even when I had little to no money, and I stayed in over 50 countries of the world. By now, I know what I would love to read before any trip from a true local and not just any influencer/travel blogger who has barely spent a week in a place. That's why my goal is giving the best travel tips I can for the cities I know and love the most to ensure anyone can have the same authentic experience I would love to have myself every time I travel. 👉 🗺️ I consider myself a real traveler, very curious of new cultures, history, local food, and my corporate job has turned me in a super organized and detailed person. Other than travelling, I love creating vegetarian recipes from every country of the world, baking Italian bread, scuba diving, and playing beach volley at competitive level. 🧳🥖🤿🏐 This is not my primary job (at least not just yet!), but it's my true strong passion to help people have the best experiences when travelling around the world, and make sure they build nice memories in the places I love the most in the world and I know the most. So don't hesitate to reach out to me for any tip you might need 😊
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