Ella is a picturesque town surrounded by mountains and valleys. It’s a hub for a wide range of activities in Sri Lanka and because of it’s higher elevation it remains warm but comfortable year round and offers some respite from the rest of the country which can get stiflingly hot in season, or see a lot of rain out of season. Almost every person I met travelling in Sri Lanka remarked Ella was their favourite place they visited during their trip and I have to say it was also mine.
The temperate weather makes Ella a great place to do lots of activities each day -you can go hiking, enjoy one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world, view Nine Arch Bridge, swim in waterfalls, go caving and swim in underground cave pools, take yoga classes, cooking classes, visit temples, and venture a little further for safaris.
It’s an ideal spring board between Colombo and the South/East Coast and Yala National Park.
The best way to arrive in Ella is by train from Kandy or Nuwara Eliya, but as one of the most beautiful train journey's in the world, you will need to book your train tickets in advance... my advice is to go for 2nd class- find out why, and how to book them in the "What To Do" section of this guide.
Read on for all my recommendations on where to stay, what to do and where to eat for a FABULOUS time in Ella!
If possible get the early train here from Kandy- it’s one of the most beautiful in the world. Ride it all the way to Badulla, then get a tuk tuk back to Ella -this allows you to go over Nine Arch Bridge as a passenger.
Train tips: -the earlier the train the more likely it is to run on time and be less crowded. Try to get the Blue train- it’s a lot newer. I tried all 3 classes during my time in Sri Lanka and can confirm 2nd class is 100% the best for enjoying this journey because you get a seat, and the doors and windows are open so you can hang out of them to take pictures and see the view (without loads of people in the way). -You don’t need air con because the train is moving so skip the 1st class- the windows don’t open.
-Book your train journey as early as possible because advanced tickets get booked out weeks ahead of time- I booked 1 week ahead but was limited by the days I could do the journey because most days had sold out. If you are last minute you can always buy 3rd class at the station on the day- I don’t think they cap the numbers…. But you won’t get a seat and as I say… they won’t cap the numbers…. So the likely hood of you getting a good view or any pictures isn't great, if you do end up doing this- try to be last to get on, or wait at the doorway so you can sit with your legs out.
How many days?
If you have:
7 days in Sri Lanka - stay 1 night
Day 1:
-Visit Nine Arch Bridge on arrival
-Hike Little Adams Peak for sunset
Day 2:
-Sunrise hike up Ella Rock
-Go down into Nildiya Pokuna Caves and swim in the underground pool.
14 days in Sri Lanka - Stay 2-3 nights:
In Ella-
Day 1: Arrive by Train, take a Matey Hut Cooking Class in the afternoon.
Day 2: Ella Rock Sunrise
Day 3: Nil Diya Pokuna Caves
Day 4: Little Adams Peak Sunrise, then Nine Arch Bridge
1 month in Sri Lanka- stay 4 nights and do it all!
Area: Ella. Featuring the luxurious comforts of a boutique hotel, 98 Acres Resort & Spa is set amidst the stunning landscape of the 98 acre tea estate.
A fantastic location for Nine Arch bridge -only an 8 minute walk away. This gorgeous retreat like resort is also only 700 meters from Little Adam's Peak which makes it a perfect place to stay the night before a sunrise trip for the views. The property is located 1.6 km from Ella Spice Garden and Ella Rock is 2 km away.
Featuring free Wi-Fi, all rooms include a seating area, a flat-screen TV with satellite channels, a kitchenette, dining area and a private bathroom and a bath or shower and a hair dryer and the accommodation has a beautiful outdoor pool.
Area: Ella. Arawe is a newly renovated 150-year old nature cottage located around 400m from the centre of Ella.
Secluded in nature, the cottage stands on 5 acres of land overlooking a rice paddy field and is the only guest accommodation on the property making it the perfect romantic escape for couples, someone looking for a peaceful escape or somewhere to write a novel!
The grounds are home to many local birds and creatures which provides guests with a refreshing nature retreat whilst being close to all that Ella has to offer.
Offering barbecue facilities and a garden. This lodge comes with 2 separate bedrooms.
A continental breakfast is served every morning at the property.
19 minutes walk to the Nine-arch bridge
275 m to Ella Spice Garden
2.3 km to Little Adam’s Peak
Area: Ella. Featuring lovely well designed rooms and a beautiful private garden area, terrace and a pool. This is the perfect boutique accommodation for couples or those looking for a little peaceful escape.
Located:
-18-minute walk from Demodara Nine Arch Bridge.
-1.9 km from Ella Spice Garden
-2.4 km from Little Adam's Peak.
-Ella Rock is 3.5 km from Tea Cabins.
Complimentary transfers are available from Ella Town Center.
The only thing is, this place gets booked up very early... so if you like the look of it please do check it for your dates now, you will need to book ahead!
Area: Nine Arch Bridge/Ella. The perfect place to stay to see Nine Arch Bridge! A little way outside central Ella, this hotel has fabulous views of Nine Arch Bridge (only 100m away) making it one of the best locations to get beautiful photos of the famous Sri Lankan train route and see it/walk down to it early morning before other tourists start arriving around 8am.
From this little gem you can easily walk along the train tracks to Ella or take a tuk tuk, and Little Adams Peak is a mere 1.9km walk away. The area is popular for cycling, and bike hire is also available at the hotel!
The units come with a seating area, a flat-screen TV and a delicious daily breakfast with continental, American or Asian options and the host is lovely!
Area: Ella. A super cute quirky boutique style guest house with traditional Dutch shutters and unique decor additions including a cool wall of masks. With a great view from the roof terrace, it’s a short 5-10 minute walk to Ella high street yet far enough away that you can’t hear the music from the bars at night- a massive plus because they are loud! Easy access to the train tracks for walking to Nine Arch Bridge, Little Adman’s Peak and Ella Rock- just 2-3minutes walk down the hill make this stay rather perfect!
Area: Just outside Ella. Eagle View Villa is the perfect location for 1-2 nights romantic retreat in nature while still on a budget- coming in at around $25 a night for a double room including an amazing breakfast catered to your specific tastes and dietary requirements (usually they serve a full English Breakfast but they also offered us Sri Lankan which we chose and they were happy to do it as early as we wished as we were getting up for sunrise.
The villa feels secluded with just 2 rooms with a long shared balcony looking out onto untouched jungle and mountains as far as the eye can see. The rooms are impeccably clean and beautifully designed with little additions such as flower candles you can light at night whilst listening to the sounds of the jungle.
We were lucky enough to see a WILD peacock fly into the tree right in front of the balcony and it stayed there for about an hour calling out to females -magical and totally unexpected!
The owner is only too happy to help with organising home cooked but delicious dinners or lunches or organising a tuk tuk to Ella town centre which is around 25 minutes away.
Top tips:
-If you have a mini speaker with you, try chilling to Spotify’s playlist Chakra (https://open.spotify.com/playlist/37i9dQZF1DX74VGmwslvwH?si=o0lSJ9t9RFOW02M6hDm8gw) for a utopian like Sri Lankan atmosphere.
-Get up for sunrise and watch it from the balcony with your breakfast or for an even more incredible view head upstairs to street level and walk round to the balcony side.
Area: Ella. Minthu Homestay is super cute and for the price of approx $17/£14 includes a Sri Lankan breakfast with an incredible view of the valley and both Ella rock and Adams Peak, making it one of the best places to stay in Ella… the owner and his family are super relaxed and lovely and create a peaceful vibe. It’s also just far enough away from the centre of Ella to be out of earshot of the bars and music joints whilst also being close enough to walk comfortably into town and access the railway tracks to take you to Adams Peak or Ella Rock/Nine Arch Bridge.
Area: Ella. Royal Vantage is good if you’re on a very very tight budget. The water is hot, wifi speedy and location is great -right next to the railway so it’s a very quick 4-5 mins walk to Ella’s main high street along the tracks, or a little further along the tracks you can access Ella Rock, Nine Arch Bridge, Adams Peak or Ella train station.
The owner is only too happy to help and has his own tuk tuk with which he can offer you rides at a far far reduced price from anything you will get on the high street (for example we were quoted 4000LKR, and 5000LKR for a trip which he then quoted for as 1500LKR -which we took). He also has a generator so power cuts aren’t an issue like in some budget accomodations.
The only thing I will say is that this place is still relatively close to Ella’s high street, so you will be able to hear music at night and the train coming through in the morning. However, a pair of earplugs remedy this issue well. It’s also a cool way to see the train come through & get a few photos each day.
Area: Ella. Gorgeous hostel situated very close to Ella high street. This is my first choice for a hostel if you're in Ella and have the budget for it -it is a little more expensive than the others and you can get your own private accommodation for less nearby but if you're after a hostel vibe and want to meet other people this place is lovely and the staff are fantastic.
-200 metres from Ella Spice Garden
-700 metres from Ella Railway Station
-4.6 km to Nine Arch Bridge
-2.6km to Little Adam's Peak
-3.6 km to Ella Rock
-49 km from Horton Plains National Park.
Some rooms at the property have a lovely balcony with a mountain views! A delicious vegetarian breakfast is available each morning :)
Area: Ella. Very close to Ella's main high street, this hostel arranges activities and is just 400m from Ella Spice Garden and very close to the railway tracks to access Ella Rock/Little Adams Peak and Nine Arch Bridge.
American and Asian breakfast options are available each morning.
The only thing I would note about this stay is it's very close to the middle of Ella's High Street so there may be noise from the bars/music that is heard into the smaller hours of the morning so if this bothers you I suggest staying further away from the main strip.
Trains are central to Ella's charm, and as I mentioned before, the train route connected to Ella is one of the most beautiful in the world and not to be missed! Arguably one of the most beautiful sections of the route is from Ella to Badulla, but many people get the train from Kandy to Ella and miss this part which goes across the Nine Arch Bridge itself! If you are arriving by train try to go all the way and then get a tuk tuk ride back from Badulla to Ella, or stay a few days in Ella and then get the train to Badulla before continuing your journey to other parts of the country.
Hot Tips for Train Journeys:
-Tickets are super cheap but you will need to book in advance for most sections of the journey if you want a seat.
-2nd class is king. You will have your own seat and you can open the windows, sit/look out of the doors, and have access to a semi decent toilet.
-3rd class can always be bought on the day (I don't believe there is a passenger limit) but you will probably not get a seat, it will smell and there will be a lot of people crammed in so don't expect a good view or access to the doors (if you do go 3rd class, try and wait until everyone is on and then sit in the doorway so you get a view with fresh air)
-1st class is airconditioned but you can't open the windows so it's not good for taking photos and the experience doesn't feel authentic or exciting.
-The blue train is newer and definitely in my opinion superior to the red train as a passenger- you can see which train you are booking via the link below and I highly recommend the blue.
-The trains often run late, and are most likely to run on time when taken first thing in the morning rather than in the afternoon or evening and you'll also have more time to enjoy the beautiful scenery in the daylight.
Climbing Ella Rock was one of my favourite things I did in Ella. The hike itself starts off as a pretty walk along the train tracks from Ella, the you cross a little bridge and move through tea plantations before beginning to hike up the steep incline of the peak itself. The change in terrain keeps the hike interesting and you get a real sense of achievement once you reach the top- I’ll be real with you -the last 20-30 minutes are sweaty…! It’s not the easiest hike, but with it’s changing terrain and beautiful views from the top it’s absolutely worth it!
The best time to hike it is for sunrise or sunset… at these times it’s magical and the temperatures cooler. I do not recommend climbing it any time between 8.30am and 5pm… it’s too hot.
- The weather tends to be clearer in the mornings so you’re more likely to see a great sunrise then a great sunset, and there will probably be more people in the evening -so if you can hack it, I’d say it’s 100% worth getting your arse out of bed and doing it for sunrise.
Unlike Little Adam’s Peak it’s a bit harder to find the trail and it’s not well marked so you can use AllTrails App (which offers a 7 day free trial if you want to use it for this occasion only or if you are doing it for sunrise I highly recommend getting a guide to show you the way, otherwise it will be very difficult to find the landmarks and you’ll probably miss the sunrise while you’re trying to figure it out!
I opted to organise a local guide the day before for 3000LKR (approx $9/£7) through a local operator who also runs a guest house. It was the same price no matter how many people, so it could work out very cheaply if there are more of you. He was around 2000LKR less than the cheapest price I found else where… and although he didn’t speak much English he was super friendly and all we needed him to do was show us the way, so for us, he was perfect. He showed up with a torch at exactly 4.30, and we began to make our way :)
There’s something incredibly exciting and magical about walking along train tracks lit by starlight with no one else around, just the peaceful quiet of the night… it’s another thrill to add to the sunrise which is itself stunning! On the way back down you notice all the views and pretty scenery you missed as you were climbing up in the dark- making it feel like a whole new adventure/hike!
If you’d like to book through the same tour operator I used, his name is Dhama and you can WhatsApp him on: +94712143443
Or WhatsApp the guide we used (called Umesh) directly on: +94787398384
Hot Tips:
1) Make sure you wear trainers or walking shoes…
2) If you are going for sunrise- make sure you set off on time- even 5 minutes late and your guide will either be hot footing it up the steepest bits to try to get you there in time, or you’ll miss it.
3) Take water and snacks for when you reach the top.
One of my favourite experiences I think I’ve had. 3000LKR (approx $9/£7) per person. Takes around 1hr 30 mins.
What to Wear:
-Wear trainers or go barefoot. If you have shoes with good grip use them so you don’t have to worry about stubbing your toes but I went barefoot and it was fine- I actually did better than some people in trainers so as I say- if they aren’t grippy- go barefoot.
-Shorts and a tank top with your swimwear underneath.
-inside the caves the clay is reddish brown and you will get it on you so don’t wear anything you don’t mind getting a little dirty- no light colours!
Hot Tip: Leave your bag at the desk when you pay- take a travel lock if you’re worried about things going missing. Don’t try and carry it with you- some areas are a bit tight and you’ll find it gets in the way.
For 4500LKR per person you get driven to a lovely open plan kitchen overlooking the chefs gardens and spend a couple of hours learning about typical Sri Lankan ingredients and cooking 6 vegetable curries and a desert, you then enjoy eating the meal as a group and chatting about your time in Sri Lanka! The class was really fun and the food was so delicious! They also cater and adapt to dietary requirements - and they send you the recipes on Whatsapp after the class so you can make them at home!
-Great value for money and absolutely one of my favourite things to do in Ella.
Climbing Little Adams Peak for either Sunrise or Sunset is one of the must do activities in Ella. It’s a far shorter and easier hike than Ella Rock and offers incredible if not slightly better views.
You can walk along the train tracks from Ella in the direction of Badulla towards Nine Arch Bridge and then from there it’s a short walk to the trailhead- google maps or All Trails app can help you find your way from Nine Arch Bridge- you do not need a guide unless you are going before sunrise, in which case using a guide may be preferable and you may feel safer walking along the tracks with them before dawn. Alternatively you can take a tuk tuk to the trail head and then you can walk up the trail alone, it is well marked, unlike Ella Rock.
If you are going for sunrise aim to arrive at the trail head 45-60 minutes before the sunrise to get the most out of the experience.
Hot tip: My advice is go for sunrise either with a guide or go to the trailhead by tuk tuk (there is something magical about walking along the tracks in the dead of night though…) and then on your way back, stop to wait for the train at Nine Arch Bridge and get some pictures before it gets crowded from 8.30am onwards.
You can walk along the tracks to or from the bridge all the way from Ella Station (or your accomodation if it’s close to the tracks) and this is how most people including locals get here. If you did want to get a tuk tuk it should cost around 800-1000LKR one way from Ella high street.
Often the trains run an hour or so late (a local can let you in on what time they expect the next one) but technically trains should be going through the bridge:
AM:
6.15 am
6.30 am
9.20 am
11.50 am
PM
1.50 pm
2.40 pm
3.30 pm
5.30 pm
7.15 pm
Hot tip 1: Get here early- it gets steadily more crowded from 8.30am onwards.
- I suggest you either hike Little Adams Peak for Sunrise (Which is amazing) and then on return walk down the tracks to the bridge so you arrive around 7.30am and then you can wait for the train.
Hot tip 2: There is a great viewpoint to take photos from when the train comes through, it's higher up so it's a good angle for photos. You can find it by turning right as you exit the tunnel just before the bridge- there are a set of steps by some food shacks, just follow it up for a great vantage point.
Diyaluma Falls are the most beautiful in the area, with pools you can swim in. The falls are about an hours tuk tuk from Ella and I recommend you get there early to avoid the crowds- this goes for most things in Sri Lanka. I'm not an early bird but being one of a handful of people checking out a beautiful waterfall really makes all the difference to whether it's a top experience or a so-so one. My suggestion is to aim to get there for between 7 and 8.30am for the best experience!
Discover a sense of relaxation and well-being on a yoga retreat or take a drop in class held against a stunning Sri Lankan backdrop.
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"What To Do" Hot Tips:
Skip Ravana falls as a separate excursion and see it on the way back from Nil Diya Pokuna Caves… also out of Nil Diya Pokuna and Ravana Caves absolutely do Nil Diya and skip Ravana. Ravana waterfall is lovely but it’s right on the road, there’s no walk to it and so it gets VERY VERY touristy and overcrowded, my least favourite waterfall in Sri Lanka for this reason. If you’re desperate to go and see it I suggest seeing it first thing in the morning before 8.30am when there will be few people. Likewise with Ravana Caves- they are simply not as impressive or as exciting as Nil Diya and I would skip unless you have a whole week in Ella and you’re running out of things to do towards the end of the week.
WHERE TO EAT:
There are lots of places to eat on Ella high street, in the evening they light up with pretty fairy lights and fire lanterns and they all have pretty decent cuisine. However, the following are in my opinion the tastiest places.
Matey Hut Restaurant/Take Away and Cooking Classes!
Down to earth and 100% authentic Sri Lankan food at the proper price. This place is honestly amazing- they get 4.8 on Google, I was recommended to eat there by a few people and it was honestly probably the best meal I ate in Sri Lanka- so full of flavour!
Highly recommend the “rice and four vegetable curries with popadom” it’s only 1080 LKR (approx $3 or $2.40 a plate), if you go with someone else I encourage you to both get 4 different ones and then share because they are all really delicious! (My personal favourites were egg plant curry, mango curry, potato curry and banana flower curry).
Tip: If you don’t love the location (it is a basic hut) you can get them to pop it in take away boxes and then head to a more beautiful spot or back to your accommodation to enjoy your meal with a view. You could also potentially take a tuk tuk to the start of Little Adams Rock trail head and eat it at the top. (A tuk tuk there should cost no more than 1000 LKR)
P.s. They also do amazing cooking classes so you can take the flavours home with you! (See “things to do” for more details)
If you’re craving somewhere with a great atmosphere and a bit more special, Chill Out Cafe has a lovely 2nd floor terrace made of bamboo. The service is fabulous and the food is great- they have a wide range of food and you can get more traditional stuff as well as Western food styles so it’s good for if you’re craving an alternative to curry. They also put candles on the tables at night.
Having said that, I highly recommend the popadoms as a starter- the dips were really tasty!
Prices are double what you pay in local places so be prepared, (mains around 2000-2500 LKR so $7.70/£6 ish) but it’s nice change it up.
Beautifully designed with delicious coffee, cake and food this place is fabulous place to relax after a morning hike or yoga class, do some work if you’re a digital nomad, or read a book. They also do very tasty gluten free cake options.
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