Bordeaux | 7 Things you'll want to do
Déjeuner aux Capucins
Visiting the Marché des Capucins is a sine qua non. The daily morning market is open from 5:30 to 14:00, from Tuesday to Sunday.
The market gets its name from the monks and their “Capuches” (hoods) that christianised and developed the area around the 16th century. The market is bustling with tourists, but it is also the beating heart of the surrounding neighbourhood.
You can find daily groceries: meats, cheese, fish, organic vegetables, flowers and fresh herbs as well as local delicacies; sea food from the bassin d'Arcachon, saussison, paté, foie gras (cuisine from south west of France is not very veggie friendly) and nut oils. I would recommend having a French breakfast (petit déjeuner) of espresso and a croissant or chocolatine and picking out some great produce to have for a picnic or aperitif.
Another option is to come later and enjoy your lunch (déjeuner) at the market. As well as produce, the market holds many “counter-style” restaurants, where you can find brasserie food, the famous local magret de canard (duck breast), prepared oysters and delicious couscous tagines. You honestly couldn't ask for a “Frencher” experience.
I recommend - La Maison du Pata Negra
Depending on your age, the right of passage for any party-goer in Bordeaux is to stay up so late that you eat the first service of steak or duck and french fries at the market - that starts at 6am!
Explore Saint Michel
The Saint Michel district, has always been a multicultural area due to its proximity to the docks. Inhabited by Spaniards fleeing the Franco government in the mid 20th century, recently there is a strong North African community. Here, you can still get a sense of how Bordeaux was 50 years ago as there are bars & cafés that have been run by the same families for years. There is a different market every morning, that you can discover on the official Bordeaux website. On Sundays St Michel hosts the biggest antique market of the area.
At the center of St Michel's Canteloup Square is “La fleche” - litterally: “The Arrow”. An extraordinary belfry separated from a 17th century basilic stands at 114m high, imposing itself to passersby. This impressive feat was once the tallest structure in Europe, it is still the tallest stone structure in the world after the pyramids of Giza.
Much like the Burj Khalifa or the Empire State Building, It's hard to fathom such a height from the foot of the tower. The grander of the medieval building is best appreciated from afar where it clearly rises over every structure in the city.
Many visitors coming to see the basilica often miss the delicious traditional Moroccan mint tea cafés, as they are veiled by banal looking shop fronts. Indeed, there are no great orientalist designs to suggest that this is where you can get the best "thé à la menthe" in Bordeaux.
I rarely see it mentioned in guides, but meeting for a mint tea (or iced mint tea in summer) in St Michel is an inescapable part of life in the town center for locals. It is certainly a great way to experience the rich cultural imprint that North- Africa has left on France. What I like the most about the atmosphere of this square, is that it's a great place for a “people-watch”. And personally I love sharing a drink with a friend that is not alcohol or coffee, for change!
I recommend - Café de la Fraternité
Shop in the Historic Center
Rue Ste Catherine was first built by the romans and is the longest pedestrian street in Europe, over a kilometre in length! On one end, you can browse haute-couture fashion stores and on the other, near the university, you'll find bargains, burgers and lots of asian street food.
I've seen guides mention this high street, however, I personally wouldn't recommend spending much time here. Not only does is get terribly overcrowded, most of the shops you could find anywhere in Europe. The fast fashion outlets and big international franchises might be great if you are coming from one of the smaller surrounding towns, but I avoid this street if I can.
There are more interesting spots deeper into the city, closer to the river, where you can enjoy the regional style of retail therapy. Indeed, parallel to Ste Catherine are little interconnected streets and squares that have unique boutiques that are seriously worth checking out.
For your first time in Bordeaux, you'll want to start to explore from La Grosse Cloche, (literally the big bell) off Rue Victor Hugo. This is one of the most instagramable spots in Bordeaux, and used to be just a few feet from my flat.
As one of the the old city gates, this is the start of your stroll through Bordeaux's UNESCO World Heritage historic centre. From here you can work your way through the charming Rue St James to Place Fernand La Fargue, then across the tram line, to the bigger Place Camille-Julien. You'll be able to browse interesting independent clothing and jewellery boutiques run by young French designers as well as some great thrifters.
It's worth mentioning that when it comes to fashion, Bordeaux is not the place to find anything edgy or avant-garde. The style here is classic chic, subtle and elegant. Though you can certainly find really unique pieces that will have people asking who you're wearing. (- believe it or not this happens to me a lot).
Whilst walking these cobble-stoned back streets, you'll find more than just clothing. There are design and home decor stores, independent perfumeries, microbreweries and of course speciality food stores. When I lived in this area, I loved doing my weekly shop in the different groceries stores, carrying a fresh baguette under one arm. You can enjoy the bakeries, the spice stores, the Italian deli and my personal favourite the Fromagerie Deruelle - for the best cheese in town. Even though you will bump into tourists, strolling through the side-streets certainly makes for a more peaceful and shaded walk. If you get tired, or your caffeine is running too low, you can skip Starbucks and hop into one of the cute independently run coffee shops.
I recommend - Le Books and Coffee
After passing through Place Camille Julian - I don't recommend you stop here, it's a pretty square but the restaurants are overpriced and prone to grumpy service - you will eventually end up in the lovely Parlement Square. Now this is where you will want to linger, If it is the right time of day you should grab a cocktail or a glass of wine.
If you have a little more time its also worth a detour to another one of my favourite shopping streets: Rue de Chevrus. This is another street that runs parallel to Rue Ste Catherine but on the opposite side.
And don't forget to check out the the National Opera building before calling it a day and going back to your hotel or airbnb!
Cycle around the Quays
Bordeaux is called Le Port de la Lune because the city is built around the half moon bend in the Garonne river. On the west side of the river is the old stone bridge with 17 arches built in 1822. On the east stands the Pont Chaban-Delmas which is a highly modern suspension bridge.
The whole area between these bridges is stunning. The right bank in particular showcases the harmonious 18th century classical stone architecture that takes you back in time - especially when there is a traditional sail ship docked! This is generally where the pictures that appear in a Bordeaux google search are taken.
It is a 7 kilometre circuit around the Port de la Lune, crossing both bridges and seeing both banks. I recommend you cycle around as much as possible whilst you are in town. My favorite thing to do is run the whole circuit at sunset - it makes for stunning views and breathtaking sites as well as a stellar cardio workout!
It goes without saying that there are places to eat delicious French food all around the quays. During the summer months, it is worth visiting the pop up restaurants on the left river bank with live music so you can really enjoy the riverside.
The Submarine Base
This immense concrete structure was surprisingly built by the Nazi's during the second world war, whilst France was under occupation. It was a pen for German and Italian submarines that were using the Garonne river to access the Atlantic. It's hard to believe that one of my favorite places in Bordeaux was once one of the main targets of Allied Powers.
Designed to withstand severe aerial bombardments, it was almost impossible to demolish, at least in a way that would make financial sense. So now, more than 50 years later, it has become one of the most unique event spaces in the world. I would highly recommend that anyone visiting Bordeaux look up the program and check out what's on. I have visited art and photo exhibitions, music festivals and pop up nightclubs in this space, and have never been disappointed.
Recently it has been converted in to the largest digital art space in Europe: Bassin des Lumieres. It regularly hosts immersive exhibitions such as the famous Monet, Dali and Van Gogh immersive light shows. If you are in to Art and Culture, this is certainly a must-see !
Sunset at Bassins à Flots
The docks around the submarine base are a recently developed part of town and a stark contrast to the old Bordeaux. The area was built in the mid-nineteenth century out of necessity, as the booming sugar trade with Africa was transforming Bordeaux into one of the most important and wealthy cities in France. After the second world war, and as ship building died out in Bordeaux, a plan was made to develop the area. The main development started in 2010 and is now in its final phase of construction.
What I love about this part of town, it that it has kept its rough, industrial feel that is completely different to the harmonious classical architecture that makes up the majority of the city. The crowd here is generally younger, more artsy and dynamic. There are art installations, sculptures and preserved construction equipment that gives the place a unique aesthetic. Brand new buildings rise above a perfect square of water where the submarines used to be bought in for repair.
The evening light hits the water in a particular way that makes it, in my opinion the absolute best place in town for a sundowner. The stillness reflects the sky perfectly so on a clear day you can watch the water go from blue to pink before turning into a watercolor of the night skyline reflected in the depths.
There are many options to eat and drink and later on, even places to go clubbing and dancing. The Iboat a trendy bar, club and event space is one of the oldest establishments in the area, known to all the locals. Bordeaux's new wine museum La Cité du Vin is perched right between the dock and the river and is a must do for wine connoisseurs. Les Halles de Bacalan is a modern version of the “counter-style” restaurant market, the bustling atmosphere makes it a great place for a drink at the end of the day. I personally think the best view of the area is sat in the bar at the Radisson Blu hotel.
I recommend - The rooftop at the Radisson Blu Hotel
Indulge in wine and cheese
I saved the best (or at least, most obvious) for last. It is clear by now that Bordeaux is all about history, art and food; one thing that combines all of these things is wine! Introduced to the region by the romans over 2000 years ago, the South-West of France has been developing the art of growing, producing and enjoying wine for some time. And nothing pairs better with wine than good cheese.
If you have chosen to travel to Bordeaux you probably know this already. The region produces 700 million bottles of wine a year, with a total vineyard surface area of over 100 000 hectares. Whether you're an amateur or a vintage connoisseur you will find an experience to enjoy.
There are three things to keep in mind in order to get the best experience:
Firstly, Bordeaux wine production is over 85% red, so this is what you want to be tasting. There are so many different types, varieties and productions that you will be able to truly explore the diversity of the red grape during your stay. Most producers will mix different types of grapes, so asking for a "Merlot" won't get you very far. If red isn't your flavour, then the best white wine that comes from the region is l'Entre-Deux Mers.
Secondly, remember that wine is made to pair with food. Not only is this a healthier way of consuming alcohol, different wines are developed to go with different dishes. Red often compliments cheese and/or meat, but sometimes a red is devised to pair with fish or a chocolatey dessert. If you buy a bottle or are simply eating out, always ask the waiter what your drink will pair best with.
And this brings us to our third and final point, you can't really go wrong when you order wine in centre town. Even in a very basic bar you will find an above average red wine, so don't be afraid to go off piste. Wine is not just for tourists, the Bordelais are very proud of their produce and want to showcase it to the world.
I recommend - Aux Quatre Coins du Vin
If you want to know more about where to indulge to the fullest, please see below my detailed guide of where to taste wine in Bordeaux. And remember to drink responsibly!
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