Kutaisi: A weekend of architecture, culture, sanitoriums, and Soviet-era relics.

Kutaisi: A weekend of architecture, culture, sanitoriums, and Soviet-era relics.

Embark on a picturesque weekend escape to the enchanting city of Kutaisi, nestled approximately 220 kilometers west of Tbilisi (a 3.5-hour drive). Serving as the capital of the historic Imereti region and boasting a legacy as one of Europe's oldest settlements, Kutaisi exudes an "old world" village-like ambiance complemented by chic boutique hotels and a burgeoning culinary and cultural scene. Spend your days exploring lively food markets, marveling at the Soviet-era relics, and delving into quirky museums. During the early 19th century, Kutaisi flourished as the epicenter of Georgian creativity, nurturing renowned playwrights, authors, and poets. Today, sculptures and bas-reliefs honoring local musicians, artists, and literary luminaries embellish its streets, reflecting its rich cultural heritage. Nestled alongside the Rioni River amidst sprawling tea fields and hilly farmland, the city also serves as the perfect launchpad for exploring the surrounding countryside. And don't miss the chance for an urban exploration adventure in Tskaltubo, where you'll experience a surreal, post-apocalyptic wasteland of abandoned sanatoriums.
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Day 1 - A roadtrip, vineyard pitstop and introduction to Kutaisi

Head out from Tbilisi to Kutaisi, following the main highway through the Georgian countryside for most of the journey. If time allows, consider stopping at Baia's Winery, about 40 minutes outside Kutaisi. This female-owned winery provides a chance to explore bio winemaking techniques, indulge in wine tasting, savor home-cooked meals, and enjoy the scenic surroundings. Best to reserve in advance.

Baia’s Winery
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Run by Baia Abuladze and her siblings, the winery focuses on bio winemaking techniques and actively promotes Imereti wines. Amidst a scenic backdrop of vineyards, visitors can indulge in wine tasting, savor home-cooked meals, and learn about the traditional winemaking processes passed down through generations.
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Another vineyard option in the region around Kutaisi is Makaridze Winery

Rdzlebi X Makaridze Winery
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Experience the tasty wines and rustic charm of Makaridze Winery, where traditional winemaking techniques blend seamlessly with breathtaking landscape.
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Check in at Communal Hotel in Kutaisi and take a leisurely stroll through its quieter residential streets. 

Communal Hotel Kutaisi
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At the Communal Hotel in Kutaisi, guests are welcomed by a design ethos that seamlessly blends contemporary elegance with authentic Georgian touches, resulting in a truly distinctive ambiance. The centerpiece of the hotel is its communal spaces, where travelers gather to savor meals, share stories, and bask in the sense of community that has become the trademark of these boutique hotels.
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Then, cross the bridge to experience the bustling heart of Kutaisi and immerse yourself in the vibrant atmosphere of the city. Hike up to  Bagrati Cathedral at sunset for amazing views of the city.

Bagrati Cathedral
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The 11th-century Bagrati Cathedral, crowned with a turquoise dome, is a prominent Kutaisi landmark visible citywide, known for its stunning frescoes and adjacent Ukimerioni Fortress ruins. Once a UNESCO World Heritage Site, it's where King David the Builder was crowned and is famed for its panoramic views, especially the breathtaking dusk skies. The gates stay open daily until late.
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Dinner at the best restaurant in town - Doli (part of the Communal Hotel Group). Delicious Phkali plate and pear, walnut salad. 

Doli
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Doli restaurant, nestled within Communal Kutaisi, offers a cozy and inviting atmosphere with warm, dimly lit surroundings, wine bottle-lined walls, and the tastiest of home-cooked Georgian dishes.
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Day 2 - Explore Kutaisi, monasteries and Tskaltubo.

Morning exploring Kutaisi

After breakfast at Doli, head over to the city's bustling Green Bazaar market. Check out the Soviet-era facade (Kokhida), and the many different vendors selling Georgian produce. 

Green Bazaar + Kolkhida (Soviet-era bas-relief)
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Experience the vibrant atmosphere of Kutaisi's oldest and largest agricultural market, the bustling Green Bazaar. Open every day from morning until early evening, it is always chock full of activity. Stroll through mounds of herbs, seasonal fruits, pickled vegetables, and a photogenic spice shop. Be sure to pause and marvel at the Soviet-era bas-relief 'Kolkhida' adorning the market facade, showcasing scenes from the Kingdom of Colchis and snapshots of local Kutaisi life.
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Marvel at the beautiful Soviet-era bas-relief made by Bernard Neberidze.

Wander through the alleyways near the Green Bazaar and admire the ancient houses with balconies that line the banks of the Rioni River.

Check out Kutaisi's best known street art of an old woman making Khachapuri by Ukrainian artist Sasha Koran.

The Khachapuri maker by Sasha Korban
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They say the woman depicted on this wall still bakes khachapuri and offers baking classes at nearby Agro Guesthouse.
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Pop into the Kutaisi Holy Annunciation Temple. Beautiful interiors with its intricate frescoes and ornate decorations.

Kutaisi Holy Annunciation temple
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The church is tucked away in a quiet corner of Kutaisi. Worth a visit for its frescoes, and beautiful interiors.
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Circle back to the Colchis Fountain at the heart of the city and admire this newly constructed fountain's many gold figurines.

Colchis Fountain
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Situated in Kutaisi's main square, sits the iconic Colchis Fountain adorned with replicas of ancient ritual figurines found in Imereti, including deer, Tamada toastmasters, and the twin horses inspired by Colchian gold earrings.
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Duck into a quirky little tea house for a snack and coffee (or tea). 

Tea House Foe-Foe
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Near the Opera Theatre, Tea House Foe-Foe, is a cute little cafe offering loose-leaf tea, coffee, and snacks in an artsy setting.
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Walk down Kantselebi Street in Kutaisi's Royal District to see landmarks like the city's first public school and the former Radium Theatre, then explore the vibrant "Wall of Love" alleyway with street art and eateries, before reaching the Deco Mon Plaisir Arch (note: Kutaisi's French connection).

Wall of love + Royal District
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Walk down Kantselebi Street in Kutaisi's Royal District to see landmarks like the city's first public school and the former Radium Theatre, then explore the vibrant "Wall of Love" alleyway with street art and eateries, before reaching the Deco Mon Plaisir Arch, hinting at Kutaisi's French connection.
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Abutting the park, there are numerous parks celebrating famous Georgian artists, poets, athletes, and intellectuals. 

Be sure to check out three of Kutaisi's quirky hole-in-the-wall museums: Photo-cinema chronicle museum, Museum of Georgian Sport, and David Kakabadze Art Museum.

Photo-cinema chronicle museum
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This museum is tiny in size, but big on passion. It houses a vast collection of archival photos, newspaper clippings, vintage cameras, and reels depicting old Kutaisi from the Russian Empire era. Donations are encouraged.
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Museum of Georgian Sports
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The Museum of Georgian Sports, founded in 1970 on the park's other side, is the country's sole institution celebrating Kutaisi's sports legacy, showcasing medals, memorabilia, and archival photos of renowned athletes in popular Georgian sports such as football, judo, and wrestling.
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David Kakabadze Kutaisi Art Gallery
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David Kakabadze Art Gallery in the former Hotel de France, founded in 1974, displays paintings by renowned Georgian artists like Niko Pirosmani, alongside David Kakabadze's Cubist landscapes, and a courtyard showcasing damaged Soviet-era sculptures.
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Marvel at the cafes, and nearby parks along the river before heading out of town.

White Bridge
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Marvel at the White Bridge (Tetri Khidi), offering views of the rushing Rioni River below, adorned with poetry snippets, and snap a photo with the statue of Picasso’s Boy.
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Golden Marquee
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Continuing towards the Rioni river, make your way past the a tiny green park honoring Kutaisi-born actress Veriko Anjaparidze and head to the Golden Marquee, once home to the Imeretian royal family dating back to the 17th century. Sadly, the museum is often closed.
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Afternoon drive to monasteries and Tskaltubo

Drive out to Agrohouse Korena for lunch before heading out to Tskaltubo.

Agro guesthouse KORENA
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A perfect spot to savor a homemade Imeretian meal in a rustic farmhouse ambiance, with cooking lessons available upon request; advance booking is recommended.
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If you have time driving out to Tskaltubo, pop in to see the impressive monasteries of Gelati and Motsameta. 

Motsameta Monastery
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Located about 2 km downhill towards Kutaisi, Motsameta Monastery, while smaller than Gelati, boasts stunning views from its cliff-top position and includes an old school building and an observatory on its premises.
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Gelati Monastery
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Founded in 1106 by King David the Builder and located just 20 minutes from Kutaisi, Gelati Monastery is a UNESCO Site featuring a distinctive emerald-tiled roof and fresco-adorned chapel. Historically a major educational hub, it houses important texts and King David’s crypt, although some areas are currently under restoration.
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Head out to Tskaltubo, an abandoned spa town and uberexer's paradise renowned for its therapeutic mineral springs and grand Soviet-era sanatoriums. There are around 25+ sanitoriums and old bath houses throughout the town. Below are our top 5. 

Sanatorium Medea
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Best known for its: entryway, colonnades, courtyard fountains, and large size (326 rooms!)
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Possibly visit Renegade tea estate

Sanatorium Metallurgist
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Best known for its: grand entryway, decorative ironwork, wooden banisters, chandeliers, glass atrium, and an old concert hall.
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Sanatorium Shakhtiori (Meshakhte)
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Best known for its: concert hall, stone staircases, and peeling floral wallpaper.
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Hotel Aia
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Best known for its: colourful mosaics.
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Bathhouse number 8
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Best known for its: UFO-like shape and central fountain.
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If you have time to spare, head over to Ota Ezo's family museum and winery for a wine tour and snack.

Otia's Ezo
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Otia's Ezo in Tskaltubo is a popular restaurant known for its authentic Georgian cuisine and rustic, welcoming atmosphere in a beautiful garden setting.
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For dinner, we recommend one of the following restaurants: 

Gala Restaurant Kutaisi
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Charming restaurant serving up Georgian home-cooked meals in beautiful clay pottery dishes. Indoor and outdoor seating.
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Sisters
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Sisters Restaurant frequented by locals and tourists offers a cozy dining experience with a menu of basic traditional Georgian dishes served in an artsy boho-chic setting. Live music played in the evenings.
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Sapere
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A charming design-led wine bar-restaurant offering both indoor and outdoor seating.
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Day 3 - Head out to a tea plantation, a renowned archaeological museum, and back to Tbilisi

Grab breakfast at Cafe Fleur, before heading off to the tea plantations and museums. The Vani museum is about a one hour drive from Kutaisi.

Fleur
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With indoor and outdoor seating, Café Fleur is a quaint spot for both Georgian and European breakfast dishes.
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Renegade Tea Estate
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Visiting Renegade Tea Plantation offers a unique opportunity to explore the lush green tea fields, learn about organic tea production, and enjoy fresh tea tastings through engaging and informative tours. Check to see if tours are offered. Last we heard, Renegade was offering tours on Tuesday and Fridays only.
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Vani Archeological Museum
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The newly built Vani Archaeological Museum showcases the rich history of the Colchis region through its extensive collection of artifacts dating from the 8th to 1st centuries BC, including impressive gold jewelry and ancient bronze sculptures.
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ABOUT THE AUTHOR
My name is Saskia, and I'm the Founder of Offbeat Goat, a travel platform for conscious and discerning travelers. We showcase a tightly edited collection of storied places that are aesthetically beautiful, transformative, and have narratives connected to sustainability. Having spent over two decades traveling and working in economic development and humanitarian efforts, I’ve shifted my focus to sustainable travel. Through Offbeat Goat, I act as curator and storyteller, spotlighting destinations that blend aesthetic appeal with positive impact. I know what I like when I see it and feel it—boutique design-led hotels, local artisans, farm-to-table restaurants, creative design spaces, and those behind-the-scenes experiences that make travel come to life. Our sweet spot, however, is finding places that are beautiful inside and out, dedicated to enriching their communities and preserving the environment. When I am not on the road, you'll find me crafting stories, filming, and writing from my current home base in Tbilisi, Georgia. We are excited to share our CityKITs - curated city guides of favourite places to eat, stay and play. Happy trailblazing!
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