A hotel room with an epilepsy warning? An omakase course of tea-based cocktails? I can't say for sure these are hidden gems, but after months of seeing everyone and their moms go to Japan since COVID reopening, I can say these were some of my favorite spots that I seldom saw people visit.
Hi! I'm a Brooklyn-based tech journalist-turned-corporate comms editor. Early in my career I spent a stint as a luxury travel planner and writer specializing in Asia, and if I can toot my own horn, I'm often the friend everyone says "wth Natt, how do you find all these cool spots, drop that itin." (Fine, they don't say it like that, but you get the point).
Travel planning is a great hobby for me, and I am writing this as both a journal to remember my trip by and to share with friends, hence the overly familiar tone you might find below. If you discovered this on the Thatch platform, consider giving my guide a shot and hopefully you'll find it useful for an adventuresome visit to Japan!
This guide includes:
✈️ Pre and post-arrival pro-tips
🛌 Hotel, restaurant, and activity suggestions with some personal anecdotes (we vetted any Instagram vs realities!)
📍 Resources, databases, and things to make your journey more efficient and economical
It is not:
📆 A list of daily itineraries
❓ "Beginner's guide to Japan" i.e. how to book JR trains, basic etiquettes, how to transfer from airport to city
🔝 The absolute best of the bests - opinions here totally my own
This guide contains recommendations of places and activities my husband and I saw, experienced, and loved from our 12-day honeymoon stint in Japan in December 2023 and sakura visit in March 2024 (plus a few other recs from our previous trip in 2017).
We tried to include some basics, but if it's your very first time in Japan, I recommend watching a few YouTube videos to get an understanding of pre-arrival information to make your trip planning smooth!
2) Tokyo / Where to stay, and what to see, eat, and do
3) Kyoto / Where to stay, and what to see, eat, and do
3) Fukuoka / Where to stay, and what to see, eat, and do
4) Sapporo / Where to stay, and what to see, eat, and do
Before you go / Arrival tips
🛄 LUGGAGE
Pack light and save room for all kinds of fun souvenirs. Japan is experiencing over-tourism in major cities like Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka and public space is highly limited. If you arrive with a checked bag, you can opt to forward your bag to your hotel (typically 1-2 days) using a service called Yamato Transport (identifiable as a logo of a black cat carrying a smaller cat in its mouth). It's typically around $20 per large luggage and super worth it - you'll find your bag waiting inside your room by the time you get to your next hotel so you can travel hands-free. There are outlets across Japan, including on arrival at the airport.
If you plan to move across cities, I recommend picking up a few slips to fill out the form - you can even drop it off at a convenience store like 7/11, Family Mart, or Lawson's. As long as you have a filled form, they will ship your luggage for you. See how to fill one out here:
Bring a coin purse - you'll collect a lot of change! You can take out cash at ATMs with your debit card (I find that eating the 3% transaction fee, if your bank charges it, is still better value than changing cash especially when you take a bunch out at once). Most of Japan is reasonably credit card friendly save for street food stalls, refilling your metrocard, and ramen shops that you buy food via a ticket machine.
🛂 IMMIGRATION
Fill out your QR entry form before arrival - it'll save you a lot of time when you land. You can even use the QR code to go tax-free shopping across Japan while leaving your actual passport in your room (though take a picture of your passport along with your arrival date stamp, just in case).
When you arrive at the airport (assuming you end up in a major hub, such as Narita, Haneda, Kansai, or New Chitose), head to the train station and find your nearest Welcome Suica ticket machine. Suica cards are used for paying inner city subway fares, buses, and vending machine; Welcome Suica is specifically intended for tourists and expires after 28 days.
You can also opt for the Pasmo Passport intended for tourists - we found Welcome Suica (from HND) to be easier to get from a machine vs having to go inside a tour office to show your foreign passport. If you land in Kansai or Itami, you may need to look for the ICOCA instead. (They all function the same way, some are just regionally sold).
Funds deposited in transit cards are non-refundable. When you leave Japan, you can use the remainder of the Suica/Pasmo/ICOCA balance at the airport convenience store and pay for any remaining difference with cash or card. (I ended up spending my last 63 yen on candy, and topped up with 47 yen on credit card to ensure I zero out.)
A note on JR Pass
JR is the major railway that includes bullet trains across Japan. Post-COVID, the price has spiked so high that it's typically not worth it unless you are moving a bunch of times within 7-14 days (tiring!)
Instead, opt for regional passes that cover sections of Japan (west, north, etc.) Use this calculator to check major destinations and stops to see if any pass is worth your while.
Most new smartphones have eSim compatibility, and I highly suggest using this as a way to get internet on your phone vs renting a pocket wifi. You can find plans for as cheap as $12 for 5GB a month. I use Airalo - referral link below for $3 off your next plan.
Some of our suggestions require a rental car to get to, which you can only reserve with an international driver's permit. You can get one from your local AAA branch for $20, then reserve a car via local franchises like Toyota, Nippon, or Nissan Rentacar.
Remember, they drive on the right side in Japan! And if you can book with an insurance that offers car rental coverage that'd be best. The rental officers are strict with even the most minor scrapes, so either get insurance or use a credit card that covers you.
If you are one to make plans in advance, especially for highly sought after places, consider having the hotel call, DMing the restaurant on Instagram, or using Tabelog (their local Yelp, so to speak.) Japanese locals seem to be tough graders - most restaurants we thought were amazing would only get mid 3s out of 5 on Tabelog. So do with that info what you will!
Tabelog also will offer access to some meal promos that you can only get by reserving a table, so there are good deals to be had with some digging.
We discovered this website through a TV program we watched on the flight to Japan. RamenDB is a local website where people rate various ramen shops across Japan - you can search for nearby recs based on the train station you're near. The site is Japanese only, but nothing a bit of Google Translate can't mostly help with.
Tokyo is split into two halves: west and east. The east side is Tokyo Station, where you'll catch most of the bullet trains, and Ginza, a major shopping district akin to NYC's 5th Avenue. It's also where the Tsukiji Fish Market is, though now you can only browse the outer markets instead of the inner market where they auction their catches. (Still a fun visit for seafood lovers.)
The west side lies major neighborhoods like Shibuya (of the famous scramble crossing), and Shinjuku, a major transport hub. On this side you'll be closer to hipper attractions like the Omotesando shopping area and Golden Gai bar district.
You can also stay closer to the north around Asakusa or Akihabara - hotels are generally a little less expensive there while still giving you good access to the rest of the city.
Stay
As it was our second time in Japan, we opted for the 'Brooklyn' of Tokyo - Shimokitazawa. It's one stop away from Shibuya and is a neighborhood full of cool vintage stores, coffee shops, and bars/restaurants that we loved exploring, especially on jetlagged days when we had a lot of time in the morning to enjoy a quiet coffee.
This is where we stayed for 4 nights. It has a washer/dryer in unit which we found SUPER helpful instead of making time to hit up a laundromat! And it is incredible spacious, at just a 2 minute walk from the Shimo-Kitazawa station.
This was our second choice in Shimokitazawa. There's a chill coffee shop in the lobby, and it is attached to a neat shopping complex that looks straight out of Los Angeles.
Small, but centrally located in Shibuya close to all the attractions, making it a good choice if you like having the option to retreat to your room at will.
There are multiple locations of this franchise of capsule hotels. We did not stay in one as it made little sense as a couple, but cool if you want to try it out! You can also rent it for day use - we almost considered doing it for a 2-hour nap in the late afternoon when we were jetlagged ahead of dinner but didn't want to head back to our hotel.
Just opened in February 2024! This is a great option for a long-stay type apartment with a washer-dryer in unit. Locating this hotel might be difficult at first - you want to exit Shibuya Station at *NEW SOUTH EXIT* (not to be confused with regular South Exit). Follow signs for Sakura Stage - the name of the complex it's on. Once you see the shiny pink wall and architecturally lit-up metal trees, you've arrived.
If you're planning to do a trip out to Mount Fuji, consider this "glamping" hotel with huge windows for mountain views and a lobby featuring a cozy firepit/fireplace.
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Do
There are the standard touristy attractions: Tsukiji, Meiji Shrine, teamLabs, etc. I won't list those things. These were spots we found to be uniquely worth our time that I would highly recommend you consider adding to your itinerary!
Is it an art with fish, or fish in art? You can finish this in about an hour, but it's the neatest concept we've seen for an "aquarium." Tickets in advance recommended but not required.
If you are there during the baseball season between April and October, attending a game is a must. While Americans see baseball games as a chill place to hang, Japanese games are very animated and active, with a lot of hometown pride.
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Why am I telling you to go to a baseball stadium? Well, if you aren't there during game season (like we were), Tokyo Dome is home to other attractions like Spa LaQua (a 24-hour onsen), a shopping complex, and theme park rides like the Thunder Dolphin rollercoaster and a ferris wheel with karaoke.
The latter is an absolute MUST DO. Go around sunset for an amazing view - English songs are limited but you can always just blast your own songs from your phone and scream into the microphone.
One ride can probably fit 3-5 songs depending on length! (Or you can spend it all on 10 minutes of All Too Well TV, I don't run your life). Do note that you should check the Tokyo Dome website to make sure those attractions are actually open, especially during baseball off seasons, as some may be closed on certain days or hours for maintenance.
This is less of a locale rec but a pro tip. If you are there during December, they will have a special Christmas exhibit with mirrored balloons. Most people will swarm this place during sunset so book your tickets a month in advance if you want to see this; otherwise I highly suggest going during the first morning slot, and head straight to the exhibit (the first floor you enter to after ticketing) while the rest of the crowd goes to the roof. Doing so will give you the entire exhibit to yourself for amazing photos.
You've likely seen the famous blue Japanese wave artwork, but here is where you can learn about the woodblocking process that goes into creating these surprisingly detailed prints that will give you a whole new appreciation.
Take a visit to the Japan Olympic Museum to see the country's history of athletic achievements, test your strength, and learn about Japan's duties as a host country, including the story of *that* Olympic year that wasn't.
There's no shortage of arcades in Japan but we particularly loved this one for the variety of rides and games! It's really more like a theme park, but indoors, so great for a rainy day as well.
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Is it your birthday during the visit? Your Joypolis entry is free! Just bring your passport :)
This would require you to take a day trip (one hour by train each way) but is an absurdly fun museum dedicated to instant noodles and the inventor comparing himself to the geniuses of Galileo and Einstein. I mean. Also you can make your own custom ramen noodle cup here!
Some may find this bar, best known for its prominent feature in the 2004 film Lost In Translation, totally over done, but look past the high prices and it's actually one of the best places to get a stunning view of Tokyo while being treating to an incredible live jazz band. Seating is first come first served unless you're staying at the Park Hyatt, which I would only recommend you do if you have credit card or loyalty points to spare.
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Shop
As of Mar 2024, the USD continues to offer highly favorable rates against the JPY which makes shopping incredibly high value. If you buy foreign luxury brands (i.e. handbags or Aesop/le labo type shit), consider price checking against the Japanese site - with tax-free shopping, you might end up saving as much as 40% off what you'd have paid in the states.
This is probably where you'll do a lot of your souvenir shopping. You can find anything from snacks. beauty products, clothes, alcohol, housewares, contact lens, and just straight up WEIRD costumes and stationary. It's huge and somewhat overwhelming, but it's open 24 hours if you need something to do!
A great place to buy local Japanese souvenirs like housewares, outdoor accessories, stationary, and gifts. Items here are particularly more unique than other department stores.
This is a chain of inexpensive goods like makeup, housewares, accessories, and toys. Similar to a Flying Tiger Copenhagen, but more Japanese minimalist! Locations across Japan.
Uniqlo's flagship stop is in Ginza, and the only place (that I'm aware of) that you can get items customized with embroidery at this location. Note: at high season like around Christmas, the wait might be as long as a few days to get your personalized item back, but on slower season it can be done and picked up in a few hours.
This is the only location in Tokyo that offers tax-free shopping. You must pay in cash though!
Montbell is a local Japanese brand of recreational/outdoor goods and clothes. If you're the hiking/camping type, the yen conversion makes it a highly valuable buy than in the states.
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Eat
You can generally throw a pin on a map and find amazing food just about anywhere you walk into, but here are a few of our favorite bites.
A Michelin Star katsu place that I still dream of after 30 days on our honeymoon. You can premake a reservation, but we lucked out with no wait walking in at 1pm on a Friday.
The bounciest udon you'll ever eat. A queue is most likely, so arrive early (though I find the line moves reasonably fast. We arrived around 12:30pm on a Wednesday and waited 20 minutes.)
Probably the chain that put yuzu ramen on the map. Some other ramen shops offer it too, and there's now a location of this in Portland, OR - but still worthwhile to stop in and have the OG.
This ain't no standard Family Mart. This particular location has a bar billed as a "liquor museum" inside where you can order rare whiskeys and eat snacks you buy from the convenience store. They'll even bruleé your food for free or for a small charge, smoke your snacks. Possibly my favorite bar in Shibuya.
A note about bars in Japan: Most bars have a modest cover charge, which goes towards a house snack they serve with your first drink. This Family Mart bar doesn't have a charge, which makes it even more fun!
A modern izakaya featuring sake from all across Japan that's reasonably priced. Recommend getting the tasting menu with a sale pairing! They won't have it on the menu but you can ask for it or show them their Tabelog listing and point to the course.
There are a few locations of this restaurant where you can catch your own fish (you can order one too if you don't want to put in the work, but it's cheaper when self-caught). Gimmicky and silly, but fun nonetheless.
If you plan to take trains from Tokyo Station, you can find everything you want to eat right before your ride here, or in a number of "Ekiben" (bento box) shops where you can buy premade food to eat on the Shinkansen.
A cool place to try (triple C) T H I C C C udon, served with your choice as a dip, in broth, or cold. Also offered with a spicy broth which is actually pretty hot (for Japanese standards!)
There are no shortage of excellent coffee in Tokyo, but this cafe happens to also serve one of the most distinctly flavorful lattes and the space gives vintage store vibes. Seasonal pastries also on offer, and the staff even greets you goodbye when you leave!
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Kyoto is for lovers
I mean, yes, we were there on our honeymoon, but we found Kyoto to be just absolutely romantic in every way. It's serene, quiet, tranquil, and just gorgeous in any season. Again, I won't recommend you places like the bamboo forests or popular shrines - plenty of people have written about them. Here are the places I still dream about from our visits.
Stay
We suggest staying on the side of the river that's closer to Kyoto Station. There are a lot of great day trips that's worth being close to the station, but you can also choose to be closer to Gion or any number of ryokans in the city. Personally, we chose a ryokan that is outside of the city to experience true nature.
This may be the most memorable stay of our entire Japan trip. Each room was designed by an artist and feature different work, so it's as if you are sleeping amongst an exhibit. You can opt to stay in a different room each night - as long as you pack your bags and leave them by the door, they'll move it to your next room when you return.
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If you decide to stay at the BnA, do not miss the Suite. I won't spoil it, but it's just the most unreal, interactive experience I've ever had from an art museum perspective and a hotel room. Alright, one small spoiler: there is an epilepsy warning for this room and it's not ideal for those with hearing sensitivities. OKAY THAT'S ALL YOU GET.
A one hour bus ride from Kyoto Station, this was our favorite ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) across both our trips to Japan. Make sure you book the room with the outdoor private bath!!
Under no circumstances would I ever suggest you pay cash for this hotel, but if you have credit card points that transfer to Hyatt and can find availability for a stay here, it is said to be one of the most gorgeous properties redeemable on points.
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Eat, shop, do
I'm combining these as we really had a very short stint in Kyoto and it is a place I'd love to spend more time in if we ever go back.
There's literally one item on the menu here and yes, of course you spring for the deluxe version with uni and fish roe. You can flavor your food with their housemade spices and yuzu seasoning, all of which are fab, and end your meal with a slow drip bonito broth. Also, the entire menu is in emoji (no worries, an English speaking staff does walk you thru it.)
I am told there's typically a wait, sometimes up to an hour, but we got lucky again by arriving at 1pm on a Monday and were seated immediately. There's only 9 or so seats here, so the people who came after us waited another 30 minutes.
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A note about 🦆🍚: There is also Gion Duck Noodle just a few hundred feet away, which is the sister restaurant and the one that came before Duck Rice, but the lines are even more intense so plan accordingly!
Kyoto is known for delicious mochi (savory or sweet). The place we stumbled into for a dessert after the duck rice meal was basically next door to the alley where you find this restaurant, but is unfortunately not listed on Google Maps. But you don't have to go there - try any mochi you see that looks appealing while you're in town!
My take on sushi in Japan is that even the casual restaurant quality is already going to be much better than some of the better sushi you can find in the states that conveyor belt sushi restaurants are probably worth your value than mid-tier sushi. So either do a nice omakase, or try out this chain that's a little higher quality than your average cheap conveyor belt place. The tuna is to die for.
No, you didn't come to Japan to eat Korean food, but this camping themed restaurant is adorable and features highly expensive Snow Peak equipments, making you feel like you're actually at a glamp!
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Kyoto-based detours
Is it possible to get to the famed art island of Naoshima with Yayoi Kusama's famous dotted yellow pumpkin as a day trip? Yes. Do I recommend it? Not if you're low on time or aren't quick on your feet. The journey to Naoshima from Kyoto takes about 3 hours each way including 3 transfers and a ferry requiring precise planning, meaning you could be screwed if you miss any of the major trains. But if you are an art lover like we are, it's a great way to make a pitstop on Okayama or even Osaka on the way back for dinner before getting back to Kyoto. Wear. Supportive. Shoes.
Home to multiple art museums, our favorite were the Art Houses - old homes which were converted into individual art exhibits. Where else can you see work by James Turrell ON AND ISLAND? Advance reservation required if you want to see all six art houses. Highly recommend you rent an e-bike, but doing it on foot is also possible with hearty spirits and a good pair of sneaks.
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Of course, once you're in Kyoto you're like to also hit up Osaka on the way. If you opt to rent a car, a one day trip I recommend (especially during December to March) is to Awaji Island (1.5 hours from Osaka). Specifically, a must here is to hit up a strawberry farm where you can pick your own and have a picnic right in the greenhouse. There are a handful on the island, and they may absolutely change the way you think of a strawberry should taste.
My husband and I joke that our tastebuds are forever ruined, because the strawberries here were so good we'll never eat a good one again in the states. They also offer tomatoes, which were equally juicy and flavorful! Reservations are highly recommended.
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Far out in Fukuoka
Much quieter than Tokyo, but just as lovely for nightlife and shopping, Fukuoka was a great change of pace especially if you love proximity to the sea and onsens. This city is a great gateway for exploring the Kyushu region, and is best known for yatai food stalls (open at night) and is considered to be the birth place of tonkatsu ramen (for the love of god, please don't go to Ichiran - there's so many other amazing ramen you can't find outside Japan here).
Stay
Note that if you come to Fukuoka by bullet train, you are not getting off at Fukuoka Station, but rather Hakata Station! And that is where you should definitely base yourself.
The staff here are incredibly helpful and friendly, even if their English is mildly limited, but if you stay I suggest you get one of the more deluxe rooms with an upgraded bath as the standard rooms are incredibly tiny - even by Japanese standards.
If we could do it again, we'd probably have chosen to stay at our second option which is more central to the cool shopping district and nightlife right outside your door.
If going to Fukuoka via Kyoto, get off the bullet train early at Kokura Station and take a bus down to Toto Museum, a free exhibit on the history and modernization of Japanese toilets (and by virtue, general hygiene.)
We found shopping here to be a lot less crowded than Tokyo, for just as good a selection and same prices. If you hate waiting in line, get yourself to Daimyo and just browse up and down streets for all your tax-free purchases.
A small shrine inside Nishi Park that lights up in cyberpunk colors at night. It's super tiny so I wouldn't go out of the way to see this unless you really want a cool photo/were already nearby.
Tucked inside of a hallway to a commercial (?) building is the cleanest tasting duck ramen I've ever had. They also serve it with chicken or fish, but duck is my recommendation!
Shrimp for breakfast might seem intense, but apparently it's an extremely sought-out and high-value meal that if you don't go when they open at 11am, you might not get to try it at all.
An elegant, intimate cocktail bar where you can have a tea-based cocktail "omakase" - we only got 3 drinks but would have loved to stay for 5. As is typical with Asian cocktails, they're all rather light, but delicate and tasty with a genuinely complexity that is worth the visit.
You can select from a variety of katsu cuts here - they even offer a well-intended but mildly misogynistic "ladie's portion" for smaller eaters. This is great for if you want to taste more than fill up - lots to eat in Japan, after all.
You can take a train here, but it's much easier by rental car (you need an international driver's license!). Navigate to this port where you can find a handful of local oyster grill huts. Only open between November/December to February/March - so check the local papers before you head out.
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A detour through Kyushu
We came to Fukuoka with the expressed purpose of driving up to Takachiho, known for a beautiful gorge near the volcanic Mount Aso. Another option would have been to go to Oita and visit Beppu, as Kyushu is known as a major onsen region.
A popular onsen region, you can get yourself buried in geothermal black sand by the sea here or visit a "7 hells" - which refer to the various hot spring pools in Beppu.
Whether you hike across to see the gorge, or head down to rowboat through it, the gorge is absolutely breathtaking. Come in the morning or mid-day to see it in its prime emerald color, but reservations for the rowboats are highly recommended (bookings close 2 days in advance, so plan ahead).
On the drive from Takachiho back down to Kumakoto, we stumbled upon this traditional grill house with delicious skewers cooked around a charcoal bed that kept the entire restaurant cozy and warm. Note: You do have to sit on the floor, but you can request a chair if you need it.
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Sapporo, the ultimate farm to table destination
We likened this northern sector of Japan to upstate New York - it's where a lot of wonderful produce and dairy are farmed and shipped to the rest of Japan, and you can enjoy some beautiful sceneries whether it's winter, summer, or spring. Rent a car to see more of this gorgeous region and taste all the regional food fresh from the source.
Take a bus from New Chitose airport and head up to Lake Toya, where you can enjoy this modern inn with nightly fireworks on the lake. You can also rent paddle boats on the lake!
Compared to other Park Hyatts, this one is reasonably affordable and puts you close to all the beautiful nature Hokkaido has to offer, with beautifully spacious rooms.
I know you're gonna want a refund after seeing me suggest actually going to the airport as an attraction, but if you're flying into Hokkaido, the airport offers incredible exhibits, a bomb ramen food court (must try the crab ramen!), and even an onsen.
Learn about beer making while also seeing vintage beer ads in a European-style building. A great place to duck into especially when it's extra hot or cold out.
When you're done with the museum, stop by for another pint in the garden (outdoors seasonally). We also enjoyed the Sapporo speciality of grilled lamb here. You can find lamb BBQ all over Sapporo, but it was pretty tasty here too!
Local crab is a must in Hokkaido, and this meal could be as expensive or affordable as you're willing, as it offers one plate dishes in the low 1,000 yens to a full course set upward of five figures.
Try the Apple Wine made with local apples, or stock up on the internationally famed Nikka gin. You can also taste rare whiskeys here you can't buy anywhere else.
Best visited in the spring and summer, this is a giant park full of gorgeous flowers in rolling hills and even some farm animals to visit.
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Final thoughts
A lot of our discoveries in Japan comes from just clicking around where we were standing on Google Maps and heading towards whatever looks interesting. Don't give every restaurant choice too much thought - follow your nose and eyes and you'll probably find something even cooler. Enjoy!
While studying abroad in Hong Kong, I met my husband and fell in love. With him, with exploration, with experiencing new places and trying to stay out of trouble. Since then I've found that I am my best self when I am far out in the world, whether it's staring out of a bus to the mountains of Taipei, waking up under the galaxy inside a remote cabin in Patagonia, being circled by hyenas at a Kenyan safari, or escaping a stalled car in the jungles of Croatia. Every time we retreat back to our Brooklyn home, there's always a good story to be told.
Travel makes me feel inspired, and I take pride every time someone asks me for a copy of my itinerary, which doesn't always include the best or the must-dos, but whatever brings me the most adventure. Maybe it'll inspire your journeys too.
