Paradise in Sicily - The Aeolian Islands
Getting There and When to Visit:
The Aeolian Islands are pretty out of the way and a bit hard to reach, but oh so worth it! In the summer months more ferries run between the islands, Sicily, and mainland Italy. This does make things easier but it will of course be much busier and HOT. I would recommend going in late spring or early autumn.
I always fly into Palermo on Sicily, spend a night there, and then ferry to the islands. You will have one chance per day to make it over, so book your tickets in advance and give yourself plenty of time at the ferry terminal! It is also possible to catch ferries over from Milazzo, Reggio Calabria, and Messina.
Where to Stay:
You’ve got options!
Salina:
With two main port towns: Santa Marina and Rinella, and with another larger town, Malfa, Salina has plenty of great places to stay. Which town you stay in should depend on what you’re looking for. Santa Marina is the largest, with great restaurants, shopping, and sea excursions leaving daily. It is also well connected to the other islands with a ferry hopping port.
Rinella is a sleepier sort of historic fishing village. You’ll still find great food and places to stay, and it is still on a ferry hopping port, but it would be quieter than Santa Marina. Staying in Malfa would require transportation to one of the other towns for any island hopping or excursions, but for those who really want to get away from it all, it’s hard to find a better location.
(Seaside Square in Santa Marina)
Panarea:
There are no cars on Panarea, only golf cart taxis and scooters to get you around the island! Panarea is small and not very populated. You’ll find pristine beaches just outside the main port town, luxury shopping, great restaurants, and a popular night club.
(IMO Panarea is perfection.)
Stromboli:
For the more adventurous, Stromboli is an active volcano. If falling to sleep each night under red lava light and the minimal but present danger of eruption sounds exciting, this is the island for you!
(Stromboli is all about that volcano)
Vulcano:
Vulcano island is made up of 4 different volcanos. This island is known for sulfuric mud baths. It is the perfect retreat for spa lovers, but keep in mind all that good-good nutrient dense mud is gonna leave a nice eggy scent on any clothing it touches.
Lipari:
In Lipari town centre you’ll find beautiful museuems - including one just called The Castle, plus lots of restaurants and hotels. Lipari is the largest and most populated of the Aeolian Islands. For a home base while island hopping, it is well-connected and practical.
What to Do:
It’s easy to ferry hop around the islands (just keep careful track of the ferry times!) no matter where you stay. Here are some ideas of must sees on each of the main islands!
Salina:
Salina can be explored by both boat and car (or scooter if you’re brave!) The Salina Relax Boats Tour (other tour boat options as well!) will circle the island with stops for swimming and sunning and loads of photo opportunities. Check in at the kiosk near the harbor and sign up for your tour asap!
Must See Spots on Salina:
Capofaro Vineyard:
Capofaro is a vineyard, winery, restaurant, and resort. If you choose to stay at the resort they can help you make all transportation arrangements from the main island of Sicily. If you’re staying elsewhere and want to stop for a visit you can reach it by car.
(Capofaro vineyard and views)
I highly recommend booking a table for lunch and then having a wander among the vineyards.
Pollara Beach:
For movie buffs this is where parts of Il Postino was filmed! The seaside structures look just the same as they do in the movie, but there’s an added concession stand now for snacks on busy beach days!
(It’s like a movie set!)
If you choose to drive here you’ll need to park above the beach and walk down fairly steep steps to reach it. WORTH IT! The other option is by boat as many of the Salina tour boats will stop and let you take a dip right in front of the beach. Just watch out for jellies!
Must Eat:
Breakfast granita at:
Granita with brioche is heaven with a morning cappuccino, and this is a prime spot for people watching.
Cannoli at:
Filled to order, these cannoli slap. Pick up some savoury treats like arancini and stromboli as well and make a meal of it.
Panarea:
Panarea is considered a luxurious playground mostly due to the very glitzy resort and nightclub, Raya. If an active nightlife of drinks and dancing is what you’re after, definitely stick around after dark for the fun! (Just be forewarned it’s gonna be pricey!)
Must See Spots:
Cala Junco:
You can’t go to Panarea and not make the trek out to Cala Junco. It is heaven on earth.
(Me in my happy place)
To get there - near the port you’ll find a taxi stand. These taxis are golf carts, mind you. Ask a taxi driver to take you to Cala Junco.
(View from the mountain past the first beach)
(The land bridge and the prehistoric village)
Chiesa di San Pietro:
This church is built to honor the patron saint of Panarea and of fishermen. It’s a gorgeous church with stunning views of the sea.
Must Eats:
Aperitivo at:
After spending hours in the hot Sicilian sun, you’re gonna need a place to sit under an umbrella and sip a cold drink.
Pizza at:
After the taxi back into town you’re sure to be famished. What would be better than tucking into a hot, fresh pizza?
Stromboli:
If the active volcano doesn’t scare you away, Stromboli is an unforgettable place to visit. The Aeolian islands are definitely an off the beaten path location and Stromboli will have you feeling like you’re at the edge of the world.
Must See Spots:
Grotta d’Eolo:
Cinephiles here’s another one for you! Fans of Rossellini and Ingrid Bergman’s film Stromboli may recognise this cave and beach!
(Ingrid is that you?)
Stromboli the Volcano:
You’re on Stromboli to see the volcano! For safety and to ensure you’ll get the best views possible, book a walking tour.
Must Eats:
Spaghetti allá Strombolana at:
Incredible seafood pasta with incredible views of the sea.
Pizza at:
This is a full restaurant as well, but the pizza is so good you may not need anything else.
Vulcano:
Hopping around the Isole Eolie and in need of a spa day? Hit the mud baths on Vulcano! Just bring bathing gear you may be ok to toss away after as the entire island, and the mud baths especially, smell strongly of sulfur.
Must See Spot:
Laghetto di Fanghi:
Vulcano is so off the beaten path there’s not a location tag for this one! (The population of Vulcano island is around 715?!)
The Laghetto di Fanghi, or mud baths, are the most popular spot to see on the island. Once you reach port there are two main roads. One leads to the town and restaurants, and the other to the mud baths and black sand beach.
Must Eat:
Pane Cunzatu at:
Pane cunzato or “seasoned bread” is like the best open-faced sandwich you’ll ever have. You’ll find them all around the islands, but this spot is one of the best.
Lipari:
If truly off-the-beaten path makes you nervous, Lipari is a bit livlier, with an active nightlife, bars, restaurants, and museums.
Must See Spots:
Castello di Lipari:
Built upon volcanic rock, with fortifying walls surrounding it, the Castello di Lipari is a formidable sight. Inside the walls you will find a fortress, a historic church, and Museums holding collections that date back to prehistoric times.
Chiesa Vecchia di Quattropani:
The church is beautiful, but the views are out of this world!
Must Eats:
Redfish Soup at:
A traditional specialty.
Malvasía Wine at:
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