3 Day Guide to Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a city that is very dear to me. I come from a town in the provincial backwater of the south of Scotland and I knew from a very young age that I wanted to live in the capital. I've always been obsessed with history and my first major goal was to study the discipline at the University of Edinburgh. My university life was full of adventures, parties with friends and soaking in the city's beauty. If I was visiting for three days, this is how I would spend them. But first, a few housekeeping things ...
The Basics
Edinburgh is an ancient place. Compared to other European cities, it can be challenging to get around. Direct bus and tram links run from the airport into the city centre. There's no need to splash out on a taxi (unless you arrive at silly o'clock in the morning). I would recommend staying near or on Princes Street, as most things are within walking distance from here.
Now a little cultural housekeeping. Edinburgh is NOT part of England. People from Edinburgh are NOT English. I'm sorry to sound so aggressive, I am trying to spare you any embarrassment. Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland, which is a country. It is not an independent country, it is one of the four making up the United Kingdom (England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland). Do not call a Scottish person 'English,' you may offend someone! We have the same Prime Minister and Royal family but a different culture, languages, laws and customs. When in doubt, refrain from asking a local about the political landscape.
People in Scotland are overwhelmingly friendly, but truthfully many Scots consider Edinburgh an international city. If you decide to visit Glasgow or the Highlands, you will notice a difference in atmosphere and in people.
Phew, that's the hard part over with. Now for the fun stuff!
Day One: The New Town
Now you've settled into your hotel and gathered your bearings, it's time to see the beautiful city first hand. The city centre is split into two parts, the appropriately named Old and New Towns. The 'New' town is about a decade older than the United States of America, so take that title with a pinch of salt. The good news is that this part of the city is a grid city, working back from Princes Street towards the edges of the city by the Firth of Forth.
First, walk down towards the area of Stockbridge. You'll pass by the traditional Georgian townhouses (Bridgerton vibes) and marvel at their grandeur. Some famous former residents include Robert Louis Stevenson, Sir Walter Scott and Susan Ferrier. Charlotte Square is the Scottish answer for Grosvenor Square and this is where the upper echelons of the aristocracy used to dwell. You can't miss it, there's a giant palatial house with a dome! The beginning of Stockbridge is signalled by St Stephen's Church. Turn left to wander down Circus Lane, one of the most Instragamable spots in the city. If you're visiting at the weekend, make sure to catch the Stockbridge Market. You can explore the boutiques, bookstores and Dean Village down here too.
Once you've done that, walk back towards the city centre and take a look at the National Portrait Gallery. This is free and is held in a large and ornate sandstone building on Queen Street. Outside, statues of Scotland's cultural icons look down on you. There's Mary, Queen of Scots, Robert Burns and Sean Connery! Fun fact, Sean Connery was a milkman in the Fountainbridge area before he went to Hollywood! There's also the National Gallery and the Modern one to look in too.
If that's not enough for you and you fancy shopping, pop into the St James Quarter. You can't miss it, it's the building with the questionable-looking gold roof. Supposedly it is supposed to look like a spiral twirling upwards towards heaven. Give it a look, and you'll see why it's unpopular. However, the new shopping centre is the best place to shop in Scotland and contains highstreet and designer stores, a cinema, numerous restaurants and a bowling alley. I recommend Salerno's Pizza, which according to my Italian friends is the best pizza joint in the city!
Day Two: The Old Town
Now for a bit of history. The Old Town of Edinburgh is a bustling and beautiful medieval neighbourhood, spanning the area from the Castle, the Meadows and Holyrood House. Some buildings here are over 600 years old and you can really get a feel for how historic the city is.
If you'd like to immerse yourself in the Old Town, I recommend doing a walking tour. There are many to choose from, they cover everything from general history to ghosts and Harry Potter. My favourite is this witches' tour. Be advised, the cobbled streets are not pedestrian friendly, so wear something comfortable.
Of course, you must include a trip to the castle on your trip. BOOK IN ADVANCE. This is Scotland's most iconic landmark, and it can be booked out days in advance. Trust me, it's no fun to walk up to the castle just to turn back again!
Here you can visit the Royal Apartments, and the Military Museum and watch the one o'clock gun being fired daily. If you hear a loud bang at lunchtime, don't worry! A fun fact is that this ancient stronghold has a room kept for the private use of the reigning Scottish monarch. Charles III hasn't used it, and neither did the late Queen Elizabeth II. In fact, no monarch has stayed there since Charles I in the seventeenth century! They still keep the room ready though, just in case.
After that, for something a bit light-hearted, head down to Castlehill and into The Camera Obscura and World of Illusions. Again, I suggest you BOOK EARLY. During school holidays you will not be able to get a spot. This is a fun venue with over 100 different interactive illusions and the camera obscura, which provides live demonstrations of a projected image of the city. This has been here for two hundred years, so it's pretty cool.
If you fancy some gore, then you have plenty of options. Edinburgh used to have the worst slums in Europe and the Old Town was almost wiped out by the plague on more than one occasion. The term 'close' means narrow street or alleyway, and this is how Edinburgh was structured until the early modern period. Close, cramped conditions made it the perfect breeding ground for disease and crime. The last plague was in 1643 but I always travel with hand gel anyway.
I would not recommend doing these activities with young children. Instead, you could walk around Greyfriars Kirkyard. This overpopulated and ancient cemetery is home to Greyfriars Bobby, the wee dug that stayed by his master's graveside. It also provided J.K. Rowling some character inspiration, can you find who is here?
But, if you do want some horror and gore then take a look at these two attractions. These immersive experiences will teach you all about Edinburgh's pretty grisly past and make you scared out of your skin.
Day Three: The Bigger Picture
By your final day, you've had your fill of the city centre, but there is still plenty more to see and do. Depending on how much time you have, I recommend you branch out and see what else the city has to offer. Either explore Leith, or take your trip west to South Queensferry.
Leith is Edinburgh's old port, and once a separate entity to the city. Today, it has a compelling indie culture as well as its attractions. This is where the Royal Yacht Britannia is stationed, the former holiday vessel of the Royal Family.
If that's not enough to fill your day, and you fancy some real sailing, head to South Queensferry. This historic town is situated about thirty minutes from the city centre and is accessible by bus. It sits on the banks of the Firth of Forth and gives you an incredible view of the iconic Forth Rail Bridge. Apparently, it used to take an entire year to paint the structure its remarkable red from start to finish!
Feel free to book an island tour here, so you can explore the waters and its treasures for yourself.
I hope you enjoy your time in my capital city, and it's been a pleasure sharing my ideas with you. For more detailed advice, I'd love it if you booked a consultation. Otherwise, please feel free to check out my other suggestions.
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