As the revellers from the North are slowly crawling into the clandestine beaches and lanes of South Goa, there are still few spots left that remain untouched and only those looking for unconventional Goa should indulge in.

South Goa, Goa, India

A Serene Escape to South Goa: A Four-Day Getaway

The desire to escape the bustling crowds led me to book a homestay at the very end of South Goa. The drive took longer than anticipated, and we reached Goa around 5:30 PM, which I considered decent, especially given the 2.5-hour delay caused by traffic on the Pune Expressway.

The long drive, with only three breaks, left us eager to settle into our homestay at Galgibag. We decided to indulge in some local cuisine and ordered in fish curry, fish fry, and rice. After a satisfying meal, we opted for an early night to prepare for the adventures that awaited us the next day.

Mornings in Goa are incomplete without a walk on a secluded beach, so off we headed with our two furry companions—one our own and the other a resident of the homestay. The furries frolicked on the sand and ventured into the sea under our watchful eyes. The bright sun at 7 AM reminded us that May can be quite harsh on the Goans.

After our refreshing beach stroll, we got ready for a day out with family, but not before enjoying a wholesome Goan meal at Sawant Restaurant in Verna. The fish thali (two servings) and a plate of chonak fry came to only INR 850.

Next, we plunged into the cool waters of Udear Springs, where a tribe of fish guaranteed a delightful pedicure for our feet. After 45 minutes of pampering, we set off for the heart-shaped lake I had recently read about.

A short walk to the cliff revealed that the heart-shaped lake was not quite what we expected—plastic and glass bottles lay strewn everywhere. If you decide to visit, avoid the route through private property; instead, drive a bit further and take a right to reach a clearing across from the private property’s back gate. It offers a perfect spot to spend quality time gazing at the limitless sea crashing against the rocks below. Time slows down as you savor the moments.

With our hearts and minds filled for the day, we dropped our family off and headed back to our stay. Too tired for a dining service, we opted for a takeaway from an Arabic joint.

This day promised to be long, starting with a 1.5-hour drive to Kurdi/Curdi—the sinking village that resurfaces once a year in May. While South Goa is renowned for its tranquil beaches, we passed through coconut groves, laterite rocks, and glimpses of rural life that many have lost touch with. A point of zero network and winding roads led us through a green canopy to a place representing broken dreams and regret. We explored a temple, a chapel, and the vestiges of houses in Kurdi—the remnants of a once-thriving community.

Contemplating the fate of the Curdikars, we wandered through the desolation. After absorbing the atmosphere, we headed to the next location on my list—Usgalimal Rock Carvings, another hidden gem of South Goa.

After two wrong turns, one of which took us to another petroglyph in the middle of a vast paddy field, we finally reached the site of the Usgalimal Petroglyphs. From a distance, it didn’t seem much, but stepping onto the first rock changed our perspective. Nestled on the banks of Kushavati in Rivona, these carvings are the earliest evidence of human settlement in Goa, dating back to the Neolithic Age.

It was astonishing how the petroglyphs have withstood the test of time, weather, and erosion. Adjacent to the rock carvings lies the Kushvati Organic Spice Garden, a delightful stop to consider.

On our drive back, we paused at a picturesque quarry close to the petroglyph site for some snaps. While the day was memorable, our night didn’t end on a high note, as the food served at Kanvas Palolem didn’t meet my expectations. However, there are quite a few places nearby that might do justice, such as Bibhitaki, The Mill, and Zest Cafe.

After much contemplation, we began our day with breakfast at The Mill, a cozy pet-friendly café at Palolem serving delicious meals. A hearty breakfast of Sriracha omelette and Blue Tokai coffee was a fantastic way to kick off the day. As a slight drizzle began, we decided to drive toward the Karnataka border.

Karwar, located just 28 km from Galgibag, was ideal for a quick getaway. The smooth, traffic-free highway allowed us to reach Karwar Beach in just 30 minutes. While my travel companion opted to relax, my enthusiasm couldn’t be dampened by the blazing sun. With my sunglasses on, I braved the heat to capture videos of crabs busy creating their sand holes.

As we had a family-packed day planned for the afternoon, we drove back to meet our kin at Cabo De Rama Fort.

Checking another box off my list, I explored the fort that lies on the Cabo De Rama peninsula, stretching over an impressive 18,000 sq. feet. Though in ruins, only one wall has been preserved, along with a chapel built within its premises, which still hosts regular mass on Sundays. At the foot of the bluff lies the breathtaking Pebbles Beach. A small gate serves as a doorway to this rocky beach, flanked by coconut trees. The climb down evoked memories of Coconut Hill in Mirissa, Sri Lanka.

The hike up can give your calves a serious workout, but there’s no need to rush to the top—take your time to stop, breathe, observe, and absorb the beauty around you.

After an intense ‘leg day,’ we headed to The Cape, a Balinese-style boutique resort and restaurant perched along the cliff’s edge, offering an exotic ambiance for a delightful evening.

Despite my urge to photograph the elegantly plated mouthwatering dishes, I resisted. While the menu is premium, it’s worth a visit to splurge on a cocktail.

The sun setting behind the crashing waves created a surreal sight, a perfect end to our day. As the evening drew to a close, I found myself yearning for more—perhaps a few more days to immerse in the rustic rural life of Goa and explore boutique food joints alongside local delights.

As our much-anticipated trip came to an end, it was time to drive back home, carrying with me memories of tranquil beaches, hidden gems, and culinary delights.

Galgibaga Beach

Sawant Restaurant

Usgalimal

#𝑮𝒐𝒂 𝑫𝒊𝒂𝒓𝒊𝒆𝒔: 𝑻𝒉𝒆 𝑺𝒕𝒐𝒓𝒚 𝒐𝒇 𝒕𝒉𝒆 𝑺𝒊𝒏𝒌𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝑽𝒊𝒍𝒍𝒂𝒈𝒆 𝒐𝒇 𝑮𝒐𝒂 – 𝑲𝒖𝒓𝒅𝒊An abandoned village that sees the light of day 𝐨𝐧𝐥𝐲 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐚 𝐦𝐨𝐧𝐭𝐡 𝐢𝐧 𝐌𝐚𝐲 and remains submerged under the depths of the water from Salaulim Dam for the rest of the year. 𝘐𝘯𝘵𝘳𝘪𝘨𝘶𝘦𝘥?This is the story of 𝐊𝐮𝐫𝐝𝐢 (𝐨𝐫 𝐂𝐮𝐫𝐝𝐢) that was once a flourishing agricultural village of Sanguem, close to the border of Karnataka, now left with tree stumps and remains of laterite walls of houses that were once home to 600 families.As we drove through a dense green canopy we entered a land of nothingness. Except for flowers left from a feast that was celebrated a week back, there were only kingfishers hovering over for a good catch and the silence of the vast land. The village was sacrificed for the 'greater good'; to meet the demands of the water supply in Sanguem, Quepem, Salcete and Mormugao Talukas of South Goa. It was in 1986 that the remaining of the villagers were displaced and that was the last memory they have of Kurdi except for every year when it re-surfaces.The memory of Kurdi is re-lived by the displaced villagers every year when the water recedes in May. They return to their homeland to pay their respects by celebrating Utsav Festival on the third Sunday of May at Kurdi’s Someshwar Temple and The Sacred Heart of Jesus Chapel's Feast the following Sunday.#offbeatgoa#goatravel#southgoa

wanderalonewithsinsin on Instagram: "#𝑮𝒐𝒂 𝑫𝒊𝒂𝒓𝒊𝒆𝒔: 𝑻𝒉𝒆 𝑺𝒕𝒐𝒓𝒚 𝒐𝒇 𝒕𝒉𝒆 𝑺𝒊𝒏𝒌𝒊𝒏𝒈 𝑽𝒊𝒍𝒍𝒂𝒈𝒆 𝒐𝒇 𝑮𝒐𝒂 – 𝑲𝒖𝒓𝒅𝒊An abandoned village th…"

Kurdi

Verna

Karwar

Cabo de Rama Beach

Kanvas Restaurant

Kushavati River

Cabo de Rama Fort

Palolem Beach

Udear Springs

Rivona

Blue Tokai Coffee Roasters | Koramangala

South Goa unfolds in ways that you will find difficult to comprehend. Be prepared to be awed by its beauty and resilience.

A Serene Escape to South Goa: A Four-Day Getaway

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