Road trip in the Canadian Rockies
Canada has been on our bucket list for many years. It is the perfect destination for those who love being in the outdoors. If the combination of pristine national parks, outdoor activities, and wild animals just roaming around is something that makes you happy, keep reading for some of our top tips.
Day 1-3: Vancouver.
When taking long haul flights, it's always good to keep in mind that your body may need some time to recover from potential jetlag. We decided to start with a few days in Vancouver, which you may know has been voted in the top 5 of the most liveable cities for a while and we always wanted to experience it for ourselves. Once we arrived we could really see why. The city is beautifully located on the coast and apart from offering a great variety of shops, nice cafes and restaurants, it also has the right amount of nature and outdoor scenery: beaches and mountains in the vicinity of the city. Vancouver is made for people who like spending time outside running, cycling, kayaking, stand up paddling, rowing, you name it!
Top sites to visit:
- Stanley Park (10km seawall loop)
- Coal Harbour Marina (at sunset)
- Kitsilano (cute shops, cafes and Kitsilano beach)
- Granville Island Public Market (a bit overpriced but very nice market and food options)
If you're short on time we recommend skipping:
- Gastown steam clock (it chimes every 15 minutes, if you're into that sort of thing definitely go check it out but we found it a bit overrated).
How to get around (based on our experience):
- E-bikes or bikes. Our hotel had complimentary e-bikes which ended up being our favourite mode of transport. We also were very lucky with the weather, which allowed us to maximise our time on the bikes.
- SkyTrain is the fastest way to get from the airport to downtown Vancouver (only 25 minutes). During Thanksgiving weekend, our tickets were discounted.
Where to stay:
- Listel hotel was really well located in downtown Vancouver. It's on Robson street, right in the hustle and bustle of the city and walking distance from many cafes and restaurants. They offer a wine reception for hotel guests daily from 17:00-18:00!
For the foodies:
Breakfast/coffee
- Breka Bakery (more for the baked goods than the coffee)
- Elysian Coffee
- Kits Beach Coffee
Lunch/snack
- Japadog (asian fusion hotdogs)
- Uncle Tetsu (Japanese fluffy cheesecake)
Dinner
- Marutama Ramen Westend (our favourite ramen place in Vancouver, love that you can choose the firmness of your noodles)
- Kintaro Ramen (great ramen joint with huge portions)
- Sushi Mugen (if you love trying creative sushi roll combinations, this is the place for you!)
Some recommendations from local friends:
- Matchstick
- Small Victory Bakery
- Jam Cafe
- Their There
- Ramen Danbo
- Miko Sushi
Day 4-6: Start of the road trip, Jasper National Park and Icefields Parkway.
After 3 days in Vancouver it was time for our road trip through the Canadian Rockies. We decided to rent a car for a week with pick up in Vancouver and drop off in Calgary. So after we spent our last morning in Vancouver by going for a run in Stanley Park and having breakfast croissants, we packed our bags, checked out from our hotel and took a train back to airport. Just because the car rental was cheaper from the airport than from downtown Vancouver. Renting a car could not have been easier and literally 10 minutes later we received the keys and were on our way. Good to know: we did not need an international driving license with our Dutch driving license.
Our original plan was to make our way to Jasper through Squamish (the Sea to Sky Gondola is located there), see Brandywine Falls, hike around The Black Tusk and/or take a Joffre Lakes Trail and stop halfway to Jasper which is Kamloops. However, we picked up our car quite late in the day (around 12) and realised that even if we drove straight to Kamloops we would be there by sunset. So we decided to skip hiking on day 4 and drove this long stretch to Kamloops. Once we arrived we had dinner there and went to sleep. It was Thanksgiving, so there weren't many places open but we found a quick and easy burrito stop for dinner and it hit the spot.
The next day we woke up early to start driving at sunrise to Helmcken Falls (which was a recommendation from our friends) and the view did not disappoint! We were completely alone for a good 15 minutes before the next tourists arrived. After that, we made our way to Mt. Robson National Park and did a small hike on the Overlander Falls Lookout Trail. This was the first trail where we decided to turn back because we were not fully equipped. Yes, you may have guessed it we didn't have bear spray on us at this point. They highly recommend carrying bear spray on you just in case. We decided not to risk it and make our way first to Jasper to get it. We weren't able to find bear spray in Kamloops the night before after visiting multiple stores.
On our way to Jasper we read few articles on where to buy your national park entrance ticket which has to be visibly displayed on your car. Reading only made it more confusing, as apparently there is an East Gate, which is not clearly marked on Google Maps and only makes sense to pass if you're driving from the Calgary/Banff side towards Jasper. There is also a West Gate which was open at the time we passed it (coordinates: 52.8828545, -118.3930211) and we managed to get our ticket there.
After arriving to Jasper and checking in to our hotel, we decided to make the most of the remaining sunlight and explore the famous Pyramid Lake which is only 10 min away from Jasper. On the way we spotted some elks and they were huge! They didn't seem bothered by us stopping by the side of the road to admire them. At the end of the day we spent some time exploring the city to find bear spray. In Jasper this was an easy task, as it is sold in every outdoor / hiking shop. After getting a small instruction how to use it in case a bear charges at us, we signed a waiver. Summary: the spray is not sold under warranty, should only be used as a last resort and may not be able to protect the user from injury. Armed with bear spray, we felt ready to take on the first trail!
The next day we had our first full trail in the Canadian Rockies called Pyramid Lake Loop. We recommend parking at the parking lot that looks a bit like a roundabout. The trail starts in the forest and after moving to a higher elevation you are rewarded with an amazing view on surrounding mountains and lakes. The trail was quite empty (our guess is because it was mid-October) and we did not come across any other people, which made us a bit more alert in the foresty part of the trail as you're less likely to see a bear from far away. Not this time though:)
To finish the day, we explored the famous (=expect more people) Maligne Canyon Loop, which was an easy going 3.7km loop to see the bridges that are built to cross the deepest canyon in the Canadian rockies. You can admire the waterfalls and river flowing through it which over many years has carved its way through the rock formations.
Have you ever heard of the Icefields Parkway? No, neither did we, but it is seriously one of the most stunning roads we've been on and it connects Jasper National Park to Lake Louise (Banff National Park). Icefields Parkway is rated one of the top drives in the world by Condé Nast Traveller, and is a 232 km stretch of double-lane highway in the Canadian Rockies. It was certainly one of the highlights of our journey. Leave just before sunrise and you'll be in awe of the views just as the sun breaks through. A big tip from us, take your time on this road as there are numerous stops where you can take in all of its beauty. To name a few: Athabasca Falls (make sure you start early in the morning from Jasper to see it without people), Sunwapta Falls (at that point you can start comparing which waterfalls you liked more), Athabasca Glacier, Waterfowl Lakes Viewpoint and Peyto Lake. Also, keep your eyes peeled because this is where Oleg shouted: BEAR! We saw a black bear crossing the road and were too excited and busy watching it that we only had one blurry phone photo from the encounter. The memory will stay with us forever though!
Let's talk a bit more about Athabasca Glacier. The view of the glacier is certainly worth the hike. We've seen glaciers in the Alps, Iceland and New Zealand and this one is just as impressive. You will have an option either to have a short 1.4km hike to see the glacier like we did or you can also book a tour where you get to walk on the glacier. Along the way to the glacier, you will see signs of where it was in beginning of 20th century and where it is now (sadly it is shrinking). Access to the glacier is fenced off so you will not be able to get close to it without a tour, but nevertheless the view is stunning!
Next stop: Peyto Lake. We arrived around lunch time, so there were some crowds around the main viewpoints. It's a great lunch (or snack) spot where you can admire the turquoise blue colour of the lake. We wanted to see more and decided to make our way to Bow Summit (which is a 6.6km loop). As soon as we left the main viewpoints, there were no crowds anymore. It was a well marked trail but we did meet some people on the way that were a bit underprepared for the hike. We recommend bringing plenty of water (half a litre each minimum) and some snacks. At the end of the trail you have a beautiful view on Bow Lake. Upon completion of the trail we returned to a car and made our way straight to a cute little village called Lake Louise. If you search Lake Louise on the internet, you will see some of those National Geographic style postcard views. What if we told you that in the space of two days we had to change our plans to make sure we could still visit one of the most iconic places in Banff National Park?
Top sites to visit:
- Helmcken Falls
- Pyramid Lake
- Athabasca Falls
- Sunwapta Falls
- Athabasca Glacier
- Waterfowl Lakes Viewpoint
- Peyto Lake
Where to stay:
- Wingate by Wyndham Kamloops, it was a good hotel for an overnight stop and it was one of the largest king size beds we've ever slept in. This was the only place we stayed at that offered complimentary breakfast.
- The Crimson Jasper was a great stay, they upgraded us to a room with a balcony which is wonderful when you're surrounded by mountains. It is walking distance from shops, cute cafes and restaurants.
For the foodies:
Breakfast/coffee
- Tim Hortons (aka Timmies. It's fast food but they're open from 6:00 which is great if you want an early start and we loved their breakfast bagels. Their coffee was ok)
- Coco's Cafe (probably the best coffee you can get in Jasper Town but coming from Europe, we have been spoilt by much better coffee options)
Lunch/snack
- The Other Paw Bakery Cafe (good sandwich options for lunch)
- Wishing Tea (a great place for bubble tea!)
Dinner
- Famoso Neapolitan Pizzeria (this was perfect after a long day and you just want a delicious and heartwarming meal)
- Alba (we had the arancini, duck confit pasta and mushroom ravioli which were all amazing! This place was a bit more pricey)
Drinks
- Jasper Brewing Company (this place was buzzing with locals and tourists. We really enjoyed trying the local beers here)
Day 7-10: Moraine Lake, Lake Louise and Banff National park.
Let's start of this post with the absolute highlight of the trip: Moraine Lake. It is the one picture you will come across when searching for breathtaking places to go in Canada. We love going to these places, however usually try to avoid crowds as queueing up for a photo or is not our thing.
On our way to Lake Louise Village from Jasper National Park, we started reading about how to best prepare yourself for a visit to Moraine Lake. We vaguely remembered reading something about a small car park and a shuttle bus. But that the shuttle bus stops running from mid-October because the road to Moraine lake closes....just when we would arrive. When we read that our hearts sank a little as it was unclear at that moment, whether we could still make it out there.
We have summarised the most helpful tips for you below, as we had to source this information from different places and based on our own experience!
Good to know:
- The road to Moraine Lake closes to vehicles every year from mid-October until end of May. These are considered the winter months, as there can be significant snowfall and avalanche risks.
- In the summer, there are two "easy" options to get there:
By car - As sunrise is the most popular time to go, the car park starts filling up from 4:00am. Once the car park is full (usually by about 5:30am according to sources online) Parks Canada will only allow a certain amount of cars in when cars have left again (so not a 1 in, 1 out policy). They also don't let cars wait in a queue so you have to be lucky.
By shuttle bus - Must be pre-booked in advance. The advantage is that you'll get to the lake and not have to worry about parking but the disadvantage is that you'll arrive with a big crowd at the same time.
When the road is closed to vehicles, you can still visit Moraine lake:
- Walk
- Bike (or e-bike)
- Ski (when there is snow)
- There is a store in town called Wilson Mountain Sports that rents bikes and e-bikes.
Hurray! This meant we could still cycle from Lake Louise Village to Moraine Lake and lucky for us, our hotel rented out free mountain bikes. It would be a 30km return trip, and since we considered ourselves fairly fit this didn't seem like a crazy idea. We started just after 7:00am and arrived around 8:30am. The majority of the route to the lake is uphill, so if you're an avid cyclist you can definitely do this faster than us! The road is in great condition and very scenic. Just make sure you pack some food and enough to drink and you're good to go. Once we arrived, we found out we were the first people there which made the whole experience even better. We had a good hour to explore the place on our own and take in the stunning scenery.
When we arrived the day before to Lake Louise Village, we visited Emerald Lake and can recommend stopping by. The lake is close to the car park which makes it very accessible to everyone. When the lake is calm, the reflection is stunning. It is definitely worth a visit!
After Moraine Lake, we decided to freshen up first and then drive to Lake Louise. In the summer months, it is paid parking. When we arrived in October we noticed that even though the paid parking signs were still up, all the parking meters were gone which meant it was free parking for us. This lake is also accessible via a short walk from the car park and you get a great view on the Victoria Glacier. It also has a beautiful hotel just on the lake front called Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise. There are a couple of hiking routes you can take here, however as we had just cycled 30km we were happy to just be leisurely walking around the lake. We did the Lake Louise Shoreline Trail which is a 4km return trip. If you have more time, we would recommend going for the Lake Agnes Tea House hike (6.8km roundtrip) or the Plain of Six Glaciers Trail (10.6km roundtrip).
After spending two nights in Lake Louise Village we made our way to Banff Town. A lot of visitors base themselves here when visiting Banff National Park and we get it - the scenery from downtown is picture perfect! It is filled with cute and cozy restaurants, bakeries, cafes, breweries and boutiques. A great place to unwind after a long day of exploring! They have all the mainstream brands for outdoor clothing and equipment so if you forgot to pack some essentials you'll be sure to find it here.
One of the mountains you'll see in every backdrop of Banff Town is Cascade Mountain. We love mountaineering and when we found out this was a 20.2km roundtrip with 1800 meters elevation gain, we couldn't let this opportunity pass. We've been told by locals that last year October (2021) it was already snowing. When it's snowing it's not advised to go up this mountain as the level of difficulty is hard. Lucky for us, we've had clear skies and sunshine almost every day during our visit in October!
Next up, an honest review of the hike up Cascade Mountain. The first stretch to the Amphitheatre was uneventful and not scenic at all. You're mostly hiking uphill through a forest with almost no openings in the trees to admire the view. What makes hiking so rewarding is the stops along the way to take in the view and see how much progress you've made and this does not happen until you're already almost 7 km into the hike. Once you get above the tree line, be prepared to scramble the whole remainder of the way to the summit. We met a few people on the way up and our biggest tip for you is: stick to the marked path. The path is marked but with a combination of looking at All Trails and making some wrong turns ourselves, we got there in the end. We saw various people get lost along the trail due to the false summits. We even fell into this trap ourselves one time, so if you don't want to waste any precious energy on this hike try to look for the markings along the path. If you haven't seen one in a while, chances are you are going the wrong way!
Once you get to the summit, you are rewarded with stunning views over Lake Minnewanka and Mount Rundle! After a celebratory lunch stop here, we headed down the same way as we came up. Don't be tempted to take any shortcuts as there are a lot of steep drops along the way. The total hike took us about 9 hours but we've heard that experienced scramblers and trail runners can complete this in 6 hours. We recommend starting early as you will want to be back at the car park before sunset.
Was it worth the hike?
Yes! But keep reading. The view at the top and coming back to Banff Town and being able to point at Cascade Mountain and say "I was on that summit", makes it worth it. We consider this to be a challenging hike due to the distance and elevation gain, and it requires walking up steep slopes of scree (small loose stones). We do not recommend this trail for beginners, as there are many false summits, the trail is easy to lose track of and you need to carry enough food and drink with you for a long hike.
Cascade Mountain packing list:
Bear spray
Sun screen
Sunglasses
Water and electrolytes drink
Sandwiches and snacks
Hiking poles (we didn't have any but we can definitely recommend them)
Hiking trail via a map/appToilet paper (there are no toilets along the way)
Extra layers in case of rain, wind or at the summit (down jacket, fleece or a rain jacket)
For those who would like a more relaxed day, we can recommend driving to the Vermillion lakes, Lake Minnewanka and Two Jack Lake.
One last note on bear spray, there are many places in Banff Town that offer bear spray rental. Our hotel also offered this option. Since we came from Jasper we didn't know that this was an option but we would recommend looking into this as we didn't end up using it (phew!).
Cascade Mountain marked the end of our epic trip to Canada. The next day we drove to Calgary and took our flight back to The Netherlands.
Top sites to visit:
- Moraine Lake
- Lake Louise
- Emerald Lake
- Cascade Mountain
If you're planning to do Cascade Mountain we recommend skipping (you will see these from the summit):
- Vermillion lakes
- Lake Minnewanka
- Two Jack Lake
How to get around (based on our experience):
- Mountain bikes
- Car
Where to stay:
- Lake Louise Inn (complimentary mountain bikes)
- High Country Inn
For the foodies:
Breakfast/coffee
- Laggan's Lake Louise (for their cookies)
- Wild Flour Bakery Banff (for their pastries, breakfast sandwiches, coffee)
Lunch/snack
- Hankki Banff (delicious Korean streetfood)
Dinner
- Truffle Pigs Bistro & Lodge Field (amazing burgers and a great twist on the classic poutine)
- Mountain Restaurant Lake Louise (mostly for their poutine and beers)
- Ramen Arashi Banff (some of the best ramen we've had outside of Japan)
- Block Kitchen + Bar Banff (Asian style sharing plates and cocktails, they work with a waiting list so just show up and prepare to wait before being seated)
- Three Bears Brewery & Restaurant Banff (gastropub style food and local brew, we went here for the beers and would recommend making a reservation to be guaranteed a seat)
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