In the autumn of 2024, I solo hiked the Motatapu Track in New Zealand. This 50 km point-to-point hike follows remote valleys and steep ridges between Wanaka and Arrowtown. The journey took me through the changing colours of autumn, with fresh snow, as I tackled long climbs and descents, camping along the way and enjoying the beauty of New Zealand's South Island.

Solo Hiking the Motatapu Track, New Zealand

You can choose to start on the side of Arrowtown (Queenstown) or Glendhu Bay (Wanaka). I started on the Glendhu Bay side and was fortunate to be dropped off by my flatmates (since I live in Wanaka), but alternatively, you can hitchhike your way to Glendhu Bay, which is only 20 minutes from Wanaka. Another cool way to get to Glendu Bay is to take the $40 water taxi from Wanaka to Glendu Bay.

I did this hike in April 2024, over ANZAC Weekend. Being autumn in New Zealand, you need to be lucky with the weather, which I was! While the track doesn’t go above 1300m, I encountered one pass where it was icy on the shaded side. During winter I can Imagine this track requiring crampons, as much of the trail sidles along a narrow and slippery single track.

There are three huts: Fern Burn Hut, Highland Creek Hut, and Roses Hut. All huts are first come first serve. For one night, I pitched my tent on Roses Saddle which I definitely recommend. Alternatively, you can pitch your tent at Macetown, which has plenty of campsites and is free of charge (30+).

Good to know is that the Motatapu Track is part of the Te Araroa Trail. Because of that, during summer the huts can be full with lots of hikers.

Quite some sections of the trail follow ridge lines which means water can be scarce. However, I never carried more than 800ml of water with me, which I could refil at any of the huts or creeks. I did hear that in peak summer the huts can be out of water, due to it being very dry in the area and the many people that cross this trail due to it being on the Te Araroa Trail. 

The track is one way, totaling ~50 km. Many parts of the track follow ridges, providing amazing views, but you’ll need to be conscious of the risks this brings in bad weather (e.g., rain or wind), it is very exposed. 

Note that I did an extra climb by taking the Big Hill Track (on the Arrowtown side). If you’d rather skip this, you can follow the 15 km 4WD road from Macetown, which requires crossing the river 10+ times but is faster. Caution is advised if it has rained heavily, as the Arrow River can flood making it impassable. 

Solo Hiking the Motatapu Track in New Zealand

Behind the Scenes Photos

GPX File of the Motatapu Track

All track information (tent spots, huts, viewpoints etc.)

In Arrowtown, the track starts in the town center, and Arrowtown is easily accessible by bus from Queenstown.

While I was tempted to take the quicker Low Route, I didn’t want to risk getting my feet wet in the freezing water. Plus, as soon as I started on the Low Route, I found myself bushwhacking through thick vegetation, which defeated the purpose of trying to move quickly along the river. So, I chose the High Route instead. Though it involved some climbing and sidling along the slopes, it offered peace of mind and a clear, formed track to follow. In return, I was rewarded with more stunning views.

Officially, this marks the end of the Motatapu Track, as you reach Macetown. However, it’s still another 15 km to civilization (a.k.a. Arrowtown).

The day started with quintessential New Zealand weather: pouring rain in the morning, which made me delay the start of the hike. According to the weather report, it would clear up around 10 a.m., so we hopped in the car at that time and drove towards Glendhu Bay. Once we arrived, the skies were blue, and the sun was shining!

The second day of the trip greeted me with fresh snow on the mountain peaks around me. The night before, it had rained heavily, and I couldn’t have wished for more incredible scenery!

The entire Motatapu Track crosses private land, which became evident when I started. Several times, I had to cross gates, and about an hour into the hike, I was high enough in the valley to have left civilization behind.

A gradual climb through the valley took me to Fern Burn Hut, which I reached after three hours of hiking. I stopped here for a quick lunch and then pushed on towards Highland Creek Hut.

About 2 km before reaching Highland Creek Hut, you arrive at Jack's Saddle. It gives you a preview of the amazing views you’ll enjoy for the remainder of the trip. From the top, there’s a 360º view of nothing but mountains and their stunning ridges, one of which you’ll descend as you make your way down to Highland Creek Hut.

Like the trek to Highland Creek Hut, the day began with a hilly section, taking me up and over ridges. There's a reason the 12 km section to Roses Hut is estimated to take around 7 to 8 hours(!).

I absolutely loved this day. As I mentioned before, the views were out of this world, and the photos (linked below) speak for themselves. While hiking, I realized just how underrated this track truly is.

The best part of the day was descending the ridge towards Roses Hut. The panoramic views of the surrounding valleys were breathtaking.

When I reached Roses Hut, which sits picture-perfect in a beautiful field of golden grass, I stopped for lunch and then continued up to Roses Saddle. I had read that this was a great spot to pitch a tent for the night, and after about an hour, I arrived. I explored the area until I found the most suitable spot for a tent. There weren’t many choices, but the one I found seemed the flattest. For clarity, I didn’t pitch my tent right on top of Roses Saddle but about 50m below it.

Once again, I was surrounded by stunning views of mountains, and I couldn’t have imagined a better place to spend the night.

I have to admit, it was chilly. While there wasn’t any snow, I woke up the next morning to a frozen water bottle—and I was pretty frozen too!

After some breakfast (while still snuggled in my sleeping bag), I packed up my gear and finally started to warm up again. Lesson learned: buy a better sleeping bag!

Walking down the ridge, I met up with the Arrow River, which can take you all the way back to Arrowtown—unless you decide to include the Big Hill Track, as I did. At the junction where I met the Arrow River, you have two choices: the Low Water Level Route, which involves walking in or alongside the river, or the High Water Level Route.

After a few kilometers, I reconnected with the Arrow River and could no longer avoid getting my feet wet. The moment I stepped in, I realized how cold the water was, and I was glad I had taken the High Route earlier!

To avoid walking the entire 15 km along a 4x4 road, I opted for the Big Hill Track, which cuts across the hills and includes one final climb.

I definitely recommend taking the Big Hill Track; it adds a sense of adventure and purity to the journey. It was a nice feeling to be up on Big Hill, seeing Arrowtown in the distance—only about a two-hour hike left from that point, which made for a great end to the trip.

Solo Hiking the Motatapu Track, New Zealand

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