Tórshavn, Faroe Islands

Tórshavn (Tor-shown) is the capital and largest city (only city, really) of the Faroe Islands. With less than 15,000 residents, it’s also one of the smallest capitals in the world. Prepare to be charmed. The city, on the southeast coast of Streymoy, was founded by the Vikings and named after the Norse god Thor. Tinganes, a peninsula that juts into the harbor, is the oldest part of town. Its 500-year-old houses still have turf roofs. When you start to get lost among its narrow pathways, look for the Tórshavn Cathedral, whose white clock tower will help guide you in the right direction. Skansin sits at the base of the peninsula. The fort, built to protect the harbor from pirates, was later used as a World War II military base by the British. Tórshavn isn’t stuck in the past, though. Art museums, sculpture parks, coffee shops, record stores, a hip brewery, and minimal Nordic restaurants will make it hard for you to start exploring the other islands.

Your introduction to Tórshavn starts high above the city. Hotel Føroyar looks like it was carved into the hillside. Its long, turf-roofed buildings, which a gardener might be mowing upon your arrival, have panoramic views of the little capital. Another island, Nólsoy, and the gray North Atlantic Ocean, lie in the distance. Though it’s the largest hotel in the Faroes, Hotel Føroyar doesn’t feel big. It’s owned by the hotel’s staff. Grazing sheep will greet you near the door. Minimal rooms keep the focus on the views. While a restaurant, a cafe/bar, and a spa will give you space to relax after an adventurous day. Should you choose to keep exploring, a small footpath on the side of the hotel leads down into the center of Tórshavn.

If you prefer a smaller hotel, Havgrim is a perfect option in Tórshavn. As its name alludes, the boutique hotel sits right along the edge of the water. Cozy outdoor furniture and a hot tub dot the lawn and overlook the waves crashing against the rocks. It’s an ideal spot for a coffee or a glass of wine when it isn’t too windy. Fourteen unique rooms are inside. The spaces aren’t large, but they’re filled with light. So is the lounge, where a generous breakfast is served in the morning, and tea is offered in the afternoon. Best of all, Havgrim is just a short walk into the center of town. Do you feel at home yet?

It’s hard to believe, but etika is the only sushi restaurant in the Faroe Islands. Fresh Faroese seafood is paired with Japanese precision at this casual, glass-walled restaurant in Tórshavn. It’s open everyday for dinner and lunch Tues-Sat.

This all-day cafe hits all the right notes in Tórshavn. A croissant and a perfect cappuccino in the morning? Check. A sandwich for lunch? Check. Something sweet, like a brownie? Check. Or perhaps a glass of French wine by a window seat? Check. You’ll feel like a regular by the time this trip is over.