I stumbled across some pictures of Onomichi with cats wandering around its hills, and just like that, I decided I had to visit. That’s how I usually pick travel destinations — completely random.
Here are my dos and don’ts from the trip:
Dos:
😁Have some seafood — this town is known for it.
😁Take the commuter ferry.
😁Hike.
Don’ts:
🤨Expect any nightlife.
Getting to Onomichi
I flew into Okayama Airport (OKJ) and hopped on a shuttle bus to Okayama JR Station — about a 30-minute ride. From there, I took a 1.5-hour JR train to Onomichi (1,340 yen in 2024).
A heads-up: the town center (around the train station) is pretty much empty by 8 pm. Hardly anyone walking around, and very few restaurants stay open. So, finding food late can be a bit of a challenge. But, well, a convenient store is always your best friend.
Hike to Senkō-ji (千光寺)
This was such a lovely hike. The trail isn’t too long or difficult, and I took my time, enjoying the views along the way. I skipped the cable car because I wanted to slow down and fully absorb the atmosphere. The way down I walked from the Cat Alley, I didn’t see any cats. Not that it mattered — I’d already seen plenty of them in town.
Onomichi Hondori (Main Street) Shopping District
This street has a chill, old-school vibe, with some cute local craft shops sprinkled around. If there are certain stores you want to visit, check their hours in advance — things open and close at odd times here.
Commuter Ferry
I didn’t feel like going too far, so I hopped on the ferry to 向島 (Mukaishima). The port is right in front of the train station, and once the ferry gets going, someone comes around to collect the fare. I paid with a 100 yen coin — super easy. I didn’t do much on Mukaishima, just wandered around. I visited a shrine which is five minutes walk away from the port, where they serve drinks at certain times.
Another Sento Moment
Of course, I found another 銭湯 (public bath). I went to 大栄湯, and stepping inside felt like traveling back to at least 50 years ago. I used some good ol’ body language to communicate and bought extra shower gel from the lady at the front desk. When I left, she handed me a pin with a cartoon that said “enjoy sento” — guess they’re used to foreigners.
Food
Final Thoughts
I didn’t venture far — just stayed within a 30-minute walk from the JR station, which was perfect for a relaxing 1.5-day stay. I didn’t want to do much anyway. I was a bit surprised by how quiet and empty Onomichi gets after 8 pm, but it made me feel safe and cozy. The town has some adorable little shops, and despite the quiet, I never felt bored.
The home for unique & authentic travel
