In January 2025, we embarked on the challenging Five Passes hike in New Zealand. A big part of this 65-kilometer trek is unmarked and it took us six days to complete, including a day spent sheltering from bad weather. As the name suggests, the route traverses five mountain passes and starts and finishes at the Routeburn Carpark.

Five Passes Hike, New Zealand

We completed the hike in late December 2024 / beginning of January 2025, which is during the New Zealand summer. All passes were snow-free except for a small patch on the south side of Fiery Col (which we walked around super easily). The region is known for unpredictable weather year-round. We experienced a day of heavy rain and opted to stay at the Rock Bivouac rather than risk traversing the initial passes in those conditions. Fortunately, the river levels subsided as quickly as they'd risen.

As this is not an official Department of Conservation (DOC) track, rely on online resources like blogs and Facebook groups (e.g., Tramping in New Zealand) for the most up-to-date information. Some sections of the hike overlap with DOC-managed tracks.

There are no huts along this route, only the Rockburn Shelter. However, numerous rock bivouacs provide camping options as well as lots of tent spots. 

- Just before Fohn Saddle (it’s mapped on NZ Topo Maps)

- Cow Saddle (under the '0' on the NZ Topo map 'Cow Saddle 1025m')

Bivvy for 5+ people with 3 to 4 tents spots in front of the boulders

3 to 4 bivvy spots on the south side and room for 2 bivvies on the east side

- Campsite area north of the Beans Burn confluence with the Dart River. - 

- On top of Fohn Saddle (choose a location carefully)

- At the tarns between Fohn Saddle and Fiery Col (can be muddy/soggy)

- North of Cow Saddle next to the rivers (Cow Saddle itself is often muddy/soggy)

- Valley around the Rock Bivouac south of Park Pass

- Valley between Park Pass and Theatre Flat

- Theatre Flat (excellent options, used for our final night)

- Several tenting options between Theatre Flat and Sugarloaf Pass within the forest

Water sources are readily available throughout the hike, with frequent river crossings and streams. We carried 1-2 liters of water and refilled regularly.

Tip: Refill your water supply before ascending any of the passes, as water sources may be more limited at higher elevations, unless you're ok drinking from tarns. 

You can opt to have both the start and finish at the Routeburn Carpark, but either way you will have to walk the difference.

During winter lots of sections of this hike will be covered in snow and alpine gear should be carried. 

5+ bivvy spots on the north side and 2 tents on the south side

- Space for 3-4 tents near the Rock Bivouac south of Fohn Saddle

Unmarked Route: Most of the track is unmarked, requiring strong navigation and route-finding skills.

Bushwhacking: Expect bushwhacking in certain areas, especially in the final kilometers before the Rock Bivouac south of Fohn Saddle and south of Cow Saddle where you re-enter the bushline.

Cairns: Helpful cairns have been placed by previous hikers in many locations.

Park Pass: The ascent and descent of Park Pass follow a well-defined path, minimizing bushwhacking.

River Navigation: When route finding becomes challenging, try to stay close to the river. Riverbanks or even wading through the river can often offer faster progress. Be mindful of fast-flowing rapids and large boulders.

River Crossings: Numerous stream and river crossings are encountered along the route. These crossings can often be quicker than circumventing them. The confluence of the Beans Burn and Dart River presented the most challenging crossing. High water levels may make this section impassable. We had to move upstream on the Beans Burn to find a suitable crossing point during low water conditions.

Important Note: The NZ Topo map may not accurately depict the exact river courses. Use common sense and avoid blindly following the map.

High Alpine Navigation: Route finding on the passes often requires careful navigation through steep and demanding terrain. Many ledges or cliffs are not shown on the map. 

Serpentine Range: You can extend this hike by incorporating the Serpentine Range, adding approximately 1.5 days to the itinerary.

Sylvan Campsite Bridge: The bridge at Sylvan Campsite is no longer present, although it's still shown on the NZ Topo map. The river is usually easily fordable during favorable conditions.

Sandflies: Bring ample sandfly repellent, as these insects are prevalent in the lower-lying areas during summer.

Our first day began with a flight into Queenstown followed by a drive to Sylvan Campsite, our starting point. To our surprise, the bridge across the river had been washed away, requiring us to ford the river ourselves. After this, we enjoyed a comfortable hike to Rockburn Shelter. Just before the shelter, we discovered a fantastic swimming spot.

For camping, I recommend walking past the shelter and following the river downstream. The area opens up, offering incredible views of the Dart River, Barrier Range, and the Forbes Mountains.

Note: We hiked the route counter-clockwise, so the route descriptions reflect that direction.

Excellent tent spots (all mapped in the Google Maps GPX)

We began Day 2 by crossing the Rockburn, where we had camped. The trail then followed a straightforward valley, transitioning into a walk through the bush until we reached the start of the Beans Burn Track.

To access the Beans Burn Track, we had to cross the Beans Burn River, which converges with the Dart River at this point. The river here is deep and fast-flowing, even used by Dart River Adventures for their jet boat trips. To cross, we bushwhacked upstream until we found a shallow, knee-to-waist-deep section. However, I highly doubt this crossing remains viable after heavy rain, and it may be necessary to wait for the water level to subside.

On the northern bank of the Beans Burn, we found a suitable campsite with a toilet (likely used by Dart River Adventures).

Following the Beans Burn Track into the valley, we noticed that the marked trail on the NZ Topo map ended after about 2 kilometers. However, we continued to find markers all the way to the mapped Rock Bivouac. The route finding became more challenging in the final kilometers before the bivouac, with the established trail and markers becoming less apparent. As a general rule, if you find yourself bushwhacking for an extended period, you're likely off the optimal route.

Sometimes, the route follows the riverbank, so don't hesitate to wade through the river for faster progress.

One kilometer from the Rock Bivouac, the valley opens up into a flat area with large boulders visible in the distance. Instead of heading directly to the bivouac, I recommend following the riverbank for faster travel.

At the Rock Bivouac, there are two large cave entrances on the northern side of the boulders (which you access by walking around the boulders, going through the river). We chose the higher northern entrance, which was spacious enough to even pitch our tent fly. This area + the second cave could accommodate 5+ people. In front of the boulders, grassy patches offered space for 3-4 tents near the river.

We also found a smaller spot under the boulders on the southern side, suitable for 2-3 people in a bivvy. However, we noticed the ground here was much damper.

We were surprised that reaching the Rock Bivouac from Rockburn Shelter took the entire day. We had anticipated reaching the Fohn Saddle, but the valley travel proved more challenging than expected. Nevertheless, we enjoyed our comfortable campsite within the boulders.

Day 3 brought rain and high winds. The entire valley was soaking wet, and the river roared. We had noticed the rain overnight and considered its impact on our hiking plans. Our original plan was to ascend to Fohn Saddle, cross to Fiery Col, and finish at Cow Saddle. However, the wet and windy conditions made traversing the ridges unappealing.

Since this trip was about enjoying the incredible views, which are most spectacular in this section, we decided to stay put. We were also still recovering from the previous day's exertion and some recent travel.

We spent the entire day inside the cave, venturing out only for meals. Before we knew it, the day had passed, and we slept soundly, feeling rejuvenated the next morning.

We woke up to clear skies, a stark contrast to the previous day. Knowing the section between the Rock Bivouac and Fohn Saddle could involve some bushwhacking (potentially 1-2 hours for only 2 kilometers), we decided to start early.

By 5:30 AM, we were out of the cave, hiking towards Fohn Saddle. I recommend crossing the river immediately after leaving the bivouac to stay on the true left bank, which facilitates faster travel along the river or its banks. Fortunately, the river level had dropped significantly overnight due to the cessation of rain. In higher water conditions, you may be forced onto the banks, significantly increasing travel time due to bushwhacking.

After approximately 2 kilometers, you'll reach the start of the ascent to Fohn Saddle. Follow the cairns up the tussock, but also look for dry streams, which offer solid rock for easier climbing compared to the dense bush and tussock. As you gain elevation, the tussock becomes shorter, making travel easier, and the terrain becomes rockier until you reach Fohn Saddle.

The views from Fohn Saddle were partially obscured by an inversion that had rolled in during the morning. However, as we started towards Fiery Col, the clouds cleared, revealing stunning views of the surrounding mountains. Definitely the highlight of the whole trip!

The descent from Fohn Saddle to Fiery Col requires some route finding with only occasional rock cairns. We didn't find it particularly difficult, but it could be more challenging in poor visibility. I strongly advise attempting this section (Fohn Saddle to Fiery Col) only in good weather to fully appreciate the incredible scenery.

For camping around Fiery Col or Fohn Saddle, I recommend the higher elevations near Fohn Saddle. Several tarns provide water sources, and there are plenty of solid rock surfaces for pitching tents. The lower areas have softer ground but tend to become very soggy.

When descending from Fohn Saddle, you'll see Fiery Peak early on, which serves as a good reference point. Its distinctive red rock is hard to miss, hence the name "Fiery." I initially mistook another col west of Fiery Peak for Fiery Col, but Fiery Col is actually on the east side, which becomes apparent as you get closer. The ascent to Fiery Col is done by following the creek upwards. 

The south side of Fiery Col was extremely windy. We had to proceed cautiously to avoid being blown over. There was also a snow patch on the south side of the col, the only snow we encountered on the entire track. If ascending, this snow patch could be a hazard. However, we decided to bypass the snow on the descent by navigating around it on the rockier terrain. We did see footsteps in the snow suggesting people had walked up it. 

On the descent from Fiery Col towards Cow Saddle, you'll encounter some steep terrain. The main route follows the true left of the large gorge, as shown on the map. Once you reach the ground level, there's an excellent campsite that can easily accommodate 2+ tents. We continued further to Cow Saddle and camped in a rock bivouac. This bivouac offered space for 3-4 people on the south side and 2 people on the west side.

After packing up at Cow Saddle, we began our descent down the valley. The initial kilometers were straightforward, following the river (on the true right) and walking over rocks or the riverbank.

The going got tougher as we reached the bushline. The river became too deep or inaccessible due to large boulders, forcing us to cross and bushwhack up the true left bank. We encountered occasional sections of trail, but they were short-lived.

About a kilometer further down the valley, the terrain opened up, allowing us to find a more defined path. This unmarked path generally followed the true left of the river. In this area, there's a wide opening in the valley with excellent camping spots for 5+ tents. We stopped for lunch here before continuing down the valley towards the ascent to Park Pass.

The ascent to Park Pass followed a well-defined track, making it relatively easy despite the steepness. We preferred this to the route finding challenges encountered earlier!

Just before reaching the top of Park Pass, there was a short section of bushwhacking. In hindsight, there might be a better path that most people take, perhaps aiming for a line that leads to the north end of the large tarn at the top of the pass.

Just before Theatre Flat, you'll encounter Point 908. The trail climbs up to this point and then descends, diverting slightly from the river. I've heard that some people even camp on top of Point 908.

At the tarn, we rejoined the marked track and followed it down into the Rock Burn.

Just before reaching the valley floor, we encountered another large rock bivouac. Two tents were pitched on the south end, and the north end could accommodate a large group of 5+ people.

Our plan was to camp at Theatre Flat, so we continued along the Rock Burn. About two kilometers into the valley, we started to see a formed track again with orange markers appearing. This marked track continued all the way back to the car, providing a welcome sense of relief after the route finding challenges.

At Theatre Flat, there are numerous camping options along the treeline, with the best spots situated around the trees in the middle of the valley flat.

We packed our bags one final time and embarked on the Rockburn Track. It was incredibly liberating to simply follow a marked trail without the constant mental burden of route finding. The Rockburn Track features several excellent campsites along its course.

As you begin to ascend away from the river, you'll know it's time to depart from the Rockburn Track and turn right towards Sugarloaf Pass. A sign will clearly indicate the junction.

Five Passes Hike, New Zealand

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